Lower intake gasket install - curious..... Dry or with silicone

Methodical

15 Year Member

Dec 1, 2003

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Clinton, MD

Aug 14, 2006

#1

• Aug 14, 2006

• #1

Is it best to install the lower intake gasket dry or should I put a little silicone around the water jacket ports? of the gasket where it meets the head (think I'm saying that correctly)?

Thanks

 

M

MustangGT95

New Member

Jul 29, 2003

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Aug 14, 2006

#2

• Aug 14, 2006

• #2

I haven't done one on my Mustang yet but I did tear into my Camaro on several occassions. I never used silicone around the ports. But I did use alittle in various locations to hold it in place.

I think the silicone/ no silicone debate is personal preference.

 

JJ95GTID

Active Member

Sep 22, 2003

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49

Phoenix, AZ

Aug 14, 2006

#3

• Aug 14, 2006

• #3

No silicone needed. But, for the lifter valley gaskets between the heads I use a thick bead of silicone instead of the foam/cork gaskets included with gasket kits. Both the cork and blue foam type gaskets split on me and caused oil leaks.

 

Black95GTS

Active Member

Jan 8, 2004

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Marlborough, MA

Aug 14, 2006

#4

• Aug 14, 2006

• #4

Both.

Use the side and the front/back gaskets. Run some RTV at the corners of the front and rear of where the lower intake manifold sits. Run some around the ports as well. It's not going to hurt!

Some guys say not to use the front and rear gaskets and just run a thick bead, but I figure that FelPro knows more about gaskets then I do, and they put all 4 pieces in there for a reason.

Adam

 

M

MustangGT95

New Member

Jul 29, 2003

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Aug 14, 2006

#5

• Aug 14, 2006

• #5

Mine is spewing oil from the china wall (front and back). I will be using RTV there soon as I get new gaskets.

 

pwcracer

Founding Member

Jun 13, 2000

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Hastings, MN, USA

Aug 14, 2006

#6

• Aug 14, 2006

• #6

My last rebuild I took peoples advice on here and used RTV for the ends, and it is working 100% leak free

 

final5-0

Mustang Master

Apr 6, 2003

6,817

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79

DFW Texas

Aug 14, 2006

#7

• Aug 14, 2006

• #7

I use the Fel Pro g set that has the blue lines around all ports.

I use no gasket sealer on the side g's

I glue the end g's on the block with 3 M weather stripping

I put a dab of RTV in each corner

Been doing it that way for longer than most here are old

NEVER had a leak!

Use some all thread or cut the head off 4 long bolts and screw them in a turn or two close to the corners. This will guide down the intake to keep from hosing up the alignment of the g's.

If you wanna put a SMALL dab of RTV to keep the side g's tight next to the head ...... It would not hurt anything IMHO.

One last thing I just remembered

IIRC ... the g's did not align all that great with my AFR's

They were covering a bit of the port

NOT Acceptable

I had to cut off the hg tab to slide the g to the proper position

Soooo ... in that case ... a couple of dabs held the g in place

Just how an Old Fart did it

Grady

 

tmoss

Gettin Wired

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Jun 28, 2001

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Saint Louis, MO

Aug 14, 2006

#8

• Aug 14, 2006

• #8

If there is corrosion pits around the water ports, I use a thin film of RTV Ultrablack but only at the water ports.

 

Grn92LX

Fidanza Man!

Founding Member

Jan 14, 2001

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129

New York

Aug 14, 2006

#9

• Aug 14, 2006

• #9

Yep thin film around both sides of the coolant port part of the gasket. Obviously cut the restriction part of the gasket. Nice bead on the front & rear block ends and you're good to go.

 

Stanger007

Founding Member

Sep 26, 2001

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Baton Rouge, LA

Aug 14, 2006

#10

• Aug 14, 2006

• #10

tmoss said:

If there is corrosion pits around the water ports, I use a thin film of RTV Ultrablack but only at the water ports.

Click to expand...

This is how I do it as well - note how tmoss says a thin film.

The key is to make sure your surfaces are clean and oil-free so that the RTV/gaskets seal. I usually squirt a little brake cleaner on a rag and wipe down the surfaces - a piece of sandpaper is helpful to get some hardened material off - just be careful to catch your dust with rags.

Grady's suggestion to use allthread to guide the intake down is helpful as well - I've used that method to take the guesswork of leaning over the engine bay and trying to set the intake straight down.

I also use RTV at the front and back of the lifter valley - used the rubber front and back gaskets one time on my Mach 1 and it leaked - since using RTV never had a problem. Let the RTV sit 15 minutes or so to get a bit rubberized then guide the intake straight down using the allthread.

EDIT - This is also a great time to change out your PCV valve, filter and grommet and also replace those vaccum lines.

Wes

 

Methodical

15 Year Member

Dec 1, 2003

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Clinton, MD

Aug 15, 2006

#11

• Aug 15, 2006

• #11

I installed the intake when I had the motor sitting on the engine stand. I used the silicone for the lifter valley as well and I put a thin film of rtv on the water jacket portion of the gasket. I just noticed that it is leaking a little just under the water neck. So I was just wondering if that could've had anything to do with maybe causing the leak. That's is why I ask this ? because I will have to replace at some point and don't want to have the same issue.

What are you guys thought on using some of that spray adhesive on the intake gasket?

Thanks