Lower Intake Manifold Mating Surface

[nonails4life]

First off i'm installing a new intake manifold on my 1990 5.0 with stock heads/block. I was wondering if the mating surface on the heads water jackets are fine despite the fact that there is clearly some crusted on rtv or gasket still there. Ive been cleaning it for the past 3 days after work and making little headroom, but the surface between the water jackets cleaned off like butter. I've been using either a plastic scraper or a rag doused in acetone, brake clearer, goof off, and gunk engine cleaner to no avail. I'm also going to be using the Felpro 1250 s3 instead of the 1250. I was too worried about messing up the head surface with razors or abrasive tools, but i'm starting to think i'm gonna need to do that. Any advice would be greatly appreciated thanks. If I violated any forum posting rules I do apologize in advance, and please let me know.
http://www.stangnet.com/mustang-for...5/?temp_hash=45fa95adebe9f9d2189a5f590da302bc
http://www.stangnet.com/mustang-for...1/?temp_hash=45fa95adebe9f9d2189a5f590da302bc

 

[stykthyn]

I always use a razor. I find they are more forgiving than a metal scraper.

 

[69GT93LX]

I us a razor all the time as well. Just keep the razor flat and don't gouge. Scraping is MUCH better than using any type of abrasive material like scotch brite pads or roloc disks. But honestly, those cast heads will be difficult to damage, they are much more forgiving than aluminum.

 

[nonails4life]

spent about an hour on one of the water jackets using six razors.Is the surface clean enough? (its smooth to the touch for the most part) I'm pretty sure I didn't create all the gouges on the one side of the water jacket(red area), but I probably caused the little ripples on the side of the cylinder port (green area). Also I've read a couple schools of thoughts on using silicone around the water jackets, or just on the corners, or none at all just a dab near the bottom where the gaskets meets the lifter valley on the front and back. recommendations? All in all definitely makes it a lot easier probably have the other 3 done in a few hours at this rate. thanks for the advice I appreciated it a lot!!! I'm also going to chase the bolts holes since they are pretty rusted on the edges, and get new bolts.

 

[squeak93]

IF... If you have air tools I always find these to be the easiest way to remove gaskets and not harm metal. I've had GREAT luck with them over the year and zero leak issues.

Amazon product ASIN B00C0M0KISView: http://www.amazon.com/Scotch-Brite-Bristle-Ceramic-Diameter-Yellow/dp/B00C0M0KIS/ref=sr_1_6?ie=UTF8&qid=1449090601&sr=8-6&keywords=yellow+roloc


They are a bit pricey (can buy individually at oriellys) but last quite a while.

Edit as the link may not be forum approved: Yellow Roloc 3m paint/rust remover disc (3 inch).

 

[stang89bidges]

80 grit? Is that different than sandpaper 80 grit?

Sent from my SM-N910V using Tapatalk

 

[mikestang63]

stock heads you can use a whiz wheel. Alum heads I would only use a razor and some acetone.

 

[squeak93]

80 grit? Is that different than sandpaper 80 grit?

Sent from my SM-N910V using Tapatalk

It is not like sand paper. I've used them for years w/o issue. Even on aluminum. Just use common sense like buffing a car and don't sit on one place forever and risk it.

Disclaimer: Use at your own risk lol

 

[nonails4life]

Thanks for the input. Ended up using a bunch of razors since I don't have power/air tools but its pretty darn clean, except the old rtv silicone left a black shadow or something that won't come off but passes the white glove test. Should I put a bit of silicone around all of the water jackets or just on the top and bottom corners?