Lowering a gt

02GTRX said:

Offset rack and pinion bushings

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don't do squat unless you have an aftermkt k member

I had those springs on my 95GT I had and they worked great. I installed myself(because I worked at a shop at the time lol) and its very easy. If you have access to a lift you dont even have to take the wheels off! If ya want some tricks of the trade on doin it just PM me

tomustang said:

can you try and get your moeny back? sportlines are know to sag and THEY know it and won't do anything about it

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They know about it, and they wont change anything???
Is there any way we can get a large number of people to complain about it, or some kind of letter we can write or something?? Like i keep mentioning a billion times, the sag of their springs was the reason my tires got shredded. They after only 6 - 8 months of driving on them, the rear lowered about another 3/4" past the 1.8" advertised drop....thats just crap. so pissed that i wasted my money on them.

BO94ZA4 said:

I had those springs on my 95GT I had and they worked great. I installed myself(because I worked at a shop at the time lol) and its very easy. If you have access to a lift you dont even have to take the wheels off! If ya want some tricks of the trade on doin it just PM me

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Don't keep tricks/trades private, this is a informative forum and like to keep everything public

TrueBlue03 said:

They know about it, and they wont change anything???
Is there any way we can get a large number of people to complain about it, or some kind of letter we can write or something?? Like i keep mentioning a billion times, the sag of their springs was the reason my tires got shredded. They after only 6 - 8 months of driving on them, the rear lowered about another 3/4" past the 1.8" advertised drop....thats just crap. so pissed that i wasted my money on them.

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Yeah in the last Sportline sagging thread, I called up eibach and told them about it and linked them to the page and the one you made. cheap asses never replied to me or anywhere else which shows how much they care about their costumers, i left some details about the info in the last thread

tomustang said:

Don't keep tricks/trades private, this is a informative forum and like to keep everything public

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Its alittle in depth IMO to type up but will here shortly when I get time

OK, got time now(holiday stuff done...thank goodness lol). These directions is what I can put into writing and will not be exactly complete but will get you a clear idea once under the car after you have read all of my rambling. This is also a dangerous way of doing spring replacement but when you have done as many as me you just wanna get er done lol. You need a rack, a 5ft adjustable stand, 2 prybars, and your basic tools. Do the rear first since it takes like 15 mins(after you have done a few): Take the swaybar off and undo the parking brake cable holder thats on the lower control arm. Put the stand under the the axle on the side your working on. put one prybar in the end of the control arm and after taking the nut off the control arm were it bolts to the axle push up on the prybar with your shoulder and take the bolt out- sometimes its in there pretty good with the usual crud. After its out your olding the spring pressure with your shoulder and slowly lower yourself to take the pressure off the spring by lowering that end of the control arm. Take the spring out(if it didnt fall out) and put the new spring in(clock it the same way the old one was in as in position of the spring ends). with the prybar on your shoulder push the control arm back into place and start the bolt back into the hole- be sure its in a couple of inches- and then release the pressure on the prybar. You can manually screw the bolt in with an impact or ratchet or what ever you loosened it with. Do both sides this way and reassemble the rear as it was(except with new springs ). Now for the front(which takes about 30 mins after you have done a couple):Take the swaybar endlinks off. Take the stand and place it under the very center of the lower control arm between the two places that it bolts to the frame- close to the spring perch is were I put it close to the edge. Take the two nuts off and knock the bolts out, each bolt that comes out the spring pressure will push that end of the contol arm down so the car will probably move around a little when you do this. after both bolts are out slowly adjust the stand down to relieve the spring and once its relieved and the lower control arm is clear swing it forward outta the way and replace the spring and position the control arm back into place with the stand(this can get agrevating if your not good with it but is simple once you figure the mechanics behind it ). Be sure to clock the spring same as the old one was like you did the rear. Do the other side the same and then reassemble the front like it was except for the obvious . And the tires never came off! Tips: After loosening the nuts of the bolts to be removed, leave them on the very end of the bolt so you can strike the nut instead of the bolt so not to damage the threads. Sometimes the rackandpinion needs to be loosened(not removed) to allow the front bolts on the front control arms to be removed- I always put the bolts back in the other direction so not to run into that on reassembly. Again this is not complete instructions and can be dangerous to do- I have done too many to count and so this is how I do them. I done 4 Stangs in one day with alignment doing it this way....just keep em lined up out the door and stand back

Just to make me feel better...be sure the rack you use lifts on the frame and not a drive on rack like an alignment rack. Almost not worth saying but you never know....hot food served hot and cold food served cold kinda thing lol.

Well the cc plates will be a 50/50 shot, check the alignment afterwards and see whats needed. Bumpsteer is another issue, if you dont notice hardly any now you probably wont afterwards. I had cc plates on mine but not anything for bumpsteer.