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Lowering blocks from Autozone

  • Thread starter Thread starter Crs
  • Start date Start date Apr 30, 2005

Crs

Member
May 7, 2004
182
0
16
San Francisco, CA
Apr 30, 2005
#1
  • Apr 30, 2005
  • #1
Has anybody bought lowering blocks from Autozone? Any problems? If so, which vendors do you recommend? I need to drop my 68 2" in the back.
 
1

10secgoal

Active Member
Dec 1, 2003
2,801
3
49
San Diego
Apr 30, 2005
#2
  • Apr 30, 2005
  • #2
Complete junk. Unless they carry the steel ones now. The aluminum ones constantly split.
 

12sec67

Active Member
Oct 6, 2003
1,301
1
36
San Diego, Ca
Apr 30, 2005
#3
  • Apr 30, 2005
  • #3
i've split autozone's a few times! try an off road warehouse for lifting trucks, they usually make them out of cast steel which are fairly heavy but then again they haven't shattered yet!

also i've learned that when lowering the car that much you might also need to get a 2 degree shim kit from summit racing due to the pinion angle being to extreme. if you don't you have a bad vibration!

ask how i found that out!
 

zookeeper

Founding Member
Aug 25, 2001
3,415
63
109
Rogue River, Oregon
Apr 30, 2005
#4
  • Apr 30, 2005
  • #4
10secgoal said:
Complete junk. Unless they carry the steel ones now. The aluminum ones constantly split.
Click to expand...
That's news to me. I've been using them to drop cars and trucks for longer than I care to remember (20+ years) without one single failure ever. I have not babied these cars, either. They have been bracket raced, street raced, towed trailers and been used hard. Not only that, but aside from this post and Historic's posts, I've never even heard of a failure. Anyone got a picture of a block split from use?
 

12sec67

Active Member
Oct 6, 2003
1,301
1
36
San Diego, Ca
Apr 30, 2005
#5
  • Apr 30, 2005
  • #5
10secgoal said:
Complete junk. Unless they carry the steel ones now. The aluminum ones constantly split.
Click to expand...

this is based off my mustang, my cousins mustang, friends mustangs experiences
 

geostang351

Member
Mar 30, 2005
946
0
17
Danb., CT
Apr 30, 2005
#6
  • Apr 30, 2005
  • #6
Wouldn't actually lowering the body of the car decrease the amount of pinion angle? The rear stay stays the same, but the body to which the tran. is attached to is lowered. What do you think?
 

zookeeper

Founding Member
Aug 25, 2001
3,415
63
109
Rogue River, Oregon
Apr 30, 2005
#7
  • Apr 30, 2005
  • #7
I'd sure like to know the circumstances under which these things broke. My brother had a '67 Cougar that ran mid-12's with a manual trans and he couldn't break them, and that's saying something! Ever hear of someone able to break a ball bearing in a sandbox? That's him. Again, I've used them with no trouble at all, sure would like to know what you guys are doing to them.
 

12sec67

Active Member
Oct 6, 2003
1,301
1
36
San Diego, Ca
Apr 30, 2005
#8
  • Apr 30, 2005
  • #8
geostang351 said:
Wouldn't actually lowering the body of the car decrease the amount of pinion angle? The rear stay stays the same, but the body to which the tran. is attached to is lowered. What do you think?
Click to expand...

all i know is that the shim kit work and the vibration is gone!

without the shim- when i let off the gas the pinion nose would turn down and create a vibration. with the shim, the nose doesn't come down as much and there is no vibration
 

12sec67

Active Member
Oct 6, 2003
1,301
1
36
San Diego, Ca
Apr 30, 2005
#9
  • Apr 30, 2005
  • #9
zookeeper said:
I'd sure like to know the circumstances under which these things broke. My brother had a '67 Cougar that ran mid-12's with a manual trans and he couldn't break them, and that's saying something! Ever hear of someone able to break a ball bearing in a sandbox? That's him. Again, I've used them with no trouble at all, sure would like to know what you guys are doing to them.
Click to expand...


where they cast aluminum or cast steel?

i run mid 12's with an AOD and i break them, and my cousins mustang runs mid 13's with a 4spd and he can break them, and that's also saying something!

it happens, not to everyone i guess - but if you plan on getting them i would look for the cast steels as i stated earlier or your always going to be wondering if todays the day your going to shatter your blocks.

i shattered mine shifting at WOT at 6400RPMS from 1st to 2nd shift and when that happened it twisted the rearend up into my floor boards then split my solid driveshaft and messed up my tranny. expensive mistake when all i had to do is get cast steel blocks instead of the aluminum.

its up to you
 

ozstang65

Founding Member
Jul 13, 2002
313
0
0
Queensland, Australia
May 1, 2005
#10
  • May 1, 2005
  • #10
Crs said:
...I need to drop my 68 2" in the back.
Click to expand...

Do it properly and get a set of reverse eye springs.
 

HistoricMustang

Active Member
Apr 11, 2003
2,359
0
46
Confederate States of America
May 1, 2005
#11
  • May 1, 2005
  • #11
zookeeper said:
That's news to me. I've been using them to drop cars and trucks for longer than I care to remember (20+ years) without one single failure ever. I have not babied these cars, either. They have been bracket raced, street raced, towed trailers and been used hard. Not only that, but aside from this post and Historic's posts, I've never even heard of a failure. Anyone got a picture of a block split from use?
Click to expand...

Have also seen the aluminum crack under heavy duty. It just seems the early models retain the "curve" that comes with leaf springs and this creates stress. I had the same problem.

Mine are now "polycarbonate" but that is another story!

HistoricMustang
www.historicmustang.com
 
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