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  • 2005 - 2014 S-197 Mustang -General/Talk-
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Lowering opinions

  • Thread starter Thread starter Jameson21
  • Start date Start date Apr 13, 2009
J

Jameson21

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Mar 31, 2009
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Apr 13, 2009
#1
  • Apr 13, 2009
  • #1
Now that my exhaust is handled I'm looking at lowering springs. From what i've seen I like the Eibach-sportlines, H&R-super sports and the Tein- s.tech. They all look to be a 2 inch drop. The H&R and Eibachs are both 250 and the Tein is 165. I've owned sportlines before and I have no complaints but I know companies can lose/gain quality over the years. I want it so you can barley see wheel well for that clean look. Also any others you guys might want to throw in there ?
 

NastyStang113

New Member
Sep 12, 2008
1,567
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Florida
Apr 13, 2009
#2
  • Apr 13, 2009
  • #2
Sportlines are the way to go if you want to go that low. Just get camber caster plates or at least camber bolts, an adjustable panhard bar, shocks, LCAs with relocation brackets, and an adjustable UCA to do it properly.
 

SpartaPerformance

10 Year Member
Nov 5, 2006
2,517
61
89
Long Island NY
Apr 14, 2009
#3
  • Apr 14, 2009
  • #3
I'm not into the dropped on the floor look but I do agree, just springs is sooooooooo wrong. If it's in your budget get at least a good set of struts n shocks (don't forget strut mounts). After that then you can get the rest of the stuff, crucial for traction are the relocation bracket for the LCA's after lowering. You can buy parts when budget permits but do shocks and struts with springs
 

Casey4s

New Member
Sep 1, 2007
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Woodbridge, VA
Apr 14, 2009
#4
  • Apr 14, 2009
  • #4
I dropped mine 1.5" with a set of Roush springs and I wouldn't go any lower if you intend to add a front spoiler/air dam, I have enough speed bump problems at 1.5" with a CDC A Spoiler.

But just as eveyone else has said it is not just a matter of springs. I added BMR adjustable upper and lower control arms, adjudtable Panhard bar, J&M CC plates, to get the suspension geometry correct. I also upgraded front and rear sway bars to make it corner a bit stiffer.
 

Marc S

New Member
Jan 23, 2009
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Apr 15, 2009
#5
  • Apr 15, 2009
  • #5
I installed the H&R race springs and Koni's in my 08 GT. It lowered it 1.5 in front and about 1.75 in the rear. The handling difference is night and day. However, The Race springs are very stiff. I believe Ford rates the stock springs at 175 lbs front and back and the H&R race springs are 350 lbs for the front and 385 lbs for the rears. The rears are stiffer to help eliminate the factory engineered under steer that almost all new cars have. I dropped almost 12 seconds off my lap times with the spring and strut upgrade.
 
S

shikwann

New Member
Apr 22, 2009
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May 12, 2009
#6
  • May 12, 2009
  • #6
Marc S said:
I installed the H&R race springs and Koni's in my 08 GT. It lowered it 1.5 in front and about 1.75 in the rear. The handling difference is night and day. However, The Race springs are very stiff. I believe Ford rates the stock springs at 175 lbs front and back and the H&R race springs are 350 lbs for the front and 385 lbs for the rears. The rears are stiffer to help eliminate the factory engineered under steer that almost all new cars have. I dropped almost 12 seconds off my lap times with the spring and strut upgrade.
Click to expand...

did you need to use a caster/camber kit?
 
B

blbrchnk

New Member
Oct 16, 2006
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Bridgeport, WV
May 12, 2009
#7
  • May 12, 2009
  • #7
shikwann said:
did you need to use a caster/camber kit?
Click to expand...

If you are lowering the car, you will need either camber bolts or caster/camber plates.
 

garbledwords

Member
Aug 28, 2007
44
0
6
Nothern VA
May 12, 2009
#8
  • May 12, 2009
  • #8
blbrchnk said:
If you are lowering the car, you will need either camber bolts or caster/camber plates.
Click to expand...

Not always true, depends on how much you lower the car. I have the Steeda UltraLites and managed to align the wheels without them, but every car is different. But any serious droppage would need either one or the other.
 

Marc S

New Member
Jan 23, 2009
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0
May 12, 2009
#9
  • May 12, 2009
  • #9
I had the same results, no bolts or plates required to get my alignment correct. I also did not need a adjustable track bar. My rear end was off center at the stock ride height, now it's centered after lowering it.
 
B

blbrchnk

New Member
Oct 16, 2006
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Bridgeport, WV
May 13, 2009
#10
  • May 13, 2009
  • #10
Consider me wrong then.
 
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