Suspension Lowering Setups

2000xp8 · Mar 19, 2015

A5literMan said:
What?! 600$ no way. Look into strange engineering adj or Koni and if you want handling instead of a weight transfer/straightline spring go with stiffer coilovers. I would think somewhere around 225# rating would be better.

I was thinking 225 also, although I like stiffer springs.
Was going to suggest koni red adjustables, but it appears they may be yellow now. Now they go by SA for single adjustable (I think like $590 a set). Then I there is DA for double adjustable which is probably overkill, not to mention like $1200.

wells1989 · Mar 19, 2015

I am trying to lower a car that performs as good as stock or better with out sacrificing ride quality which is probably why the guy suggested light springs. Obviously I want a car that rides like a caddy launches like a drag car and handles like an indy car. That is not possible so i want a good balance with ride quality being important. the reasoning he suggested non adjustable shocks was they actually operate smoother than adjustable shocks which in return reduces binding. His opinion?

I claim to be no expert on suspension which is why I ask questions and shared what I was told by the tech at mm. Bottom line is its my job to sift through the info and decide what I need to do. I appreciate all the feedback keep it coming

wells1989 · Apr 29, 2015

Ok guys so i have started to work towards my goals. So far i have bought the k frame support, strut tower, and frame connectors. All parts are MM and seem to be great quality products. When installing the strut tower brace i had to remove my plastic coil cover. I did not like the thoughts of cutting it and making it look rigged imo. I did not like the mess of wires that was exposed when removed so i have been side tracked doing a wire tuck to the engine bay. i moved everything into the fender wells and am very happy with my results. i started last night to install the strut tower brace but seem to be having a bit of a fitment issue. When i attach the brace to the pinch weld the brace barley fits out over the struts (like it is not long enough). I can make it fit but have to push down on it with extreme force? Is this normal or has anyone else has a similar issue? i can post pics if anyone is unclear of what issue i am having.

the k frame brace bolted right on and have plans of welding the full length connectors up as soon as the strut tower brace is installed. next step will be shocks,struts and cc plates.

Picture of my wire tuck when i was 3/4 done

wells1989 · May 3, 2015

Ok I have completed the wire tuck and doing a moderate tidying up of the engine bay. I installed the maximum motorsports k frame support and strut tower support. After a good hard test drive there is definitely a positive improvement. Car has less squeaks and a more responsive ride.

Next weekend frame connectors.

A5literMan · May 4, 2015

wells1989 said:
Ok I have completed the wire tuck and doing a moderate tidying up of the engine bay. I installed the maximum motorsports k frame support and strut tower support. After a good hard test drive there is definitely a positive improvement. Car has less squeaks and a more responsive ride.

Next weekend frame connectors.

That car is soooo clean!

wells1989 · May 4, 2015

Thanks I take a lot of pride in keeping it clean which sucks even more that I live a mile up a gravel aka dirt road. I almost didn't post that one pic because of the chipped paint on my sway bar. thanks

wells1989 · May 12, 2015

Any one have any advice to offer before I weld on my mm flsc. I have a friend of mine helping whom is a seasoned welder and also an accomplished latemodel dirt track car builder/racer.

mikestang63 · May 12, 2015

wells1989 said:
Any one have any advice to offer before I weld on my mm flsc. I have a friend of mine helping whom is a seasoned welder and also an accomplished latemodel dirt track car builder/racer.

yes. make sure that your car is on a drive on ramp or on the ground with the weight of the car on the wheels, or else you will weld them on with the car tweeked. Also. grind off the paint on the subframe and on the subframe connectors for a good weld, and then paint over the areas with rustoleum.

I would also disconnect the battery and make sure he grounds the welder in a good chassis ground on the car.

MFE92 · May 12, 2015

And get the fuel vapor line out of the way LOL

wells1989 · May 13, 2015

The guy who is helping me in which I feel has lots of experience would like to do things differently. I hate to argue with him due to his experience with building chasis. However he would like to set the rear axle on jack stands after making sure they are level. Once the car is setting on them he wants to measure the distance from the axle to a point on the car to ensure the rear end is level. On the front the wants toremove the front tires and set one jack stand under the center of k frame. His reasoning for this is that 4 point cause binding while three will allow the car to set straight and relaxed. Can anyone explain to me why this will or will not work? I understand why you can't jack the car up but he feels that the way he is doing it is actually going the extra mile.

mikestang63 · May 13, 2015

wells1989 said:
The guy who is helping me in which I feel has lots of experience would like to do things differently. I hate to argue with him due to his experience with building chasis. However he would like to set the rear axle on jack stands after making sure they are level. Once the car is setting on them he wants to measure the distance from the axle to a point on the car to ensure the rear end is level. On the front the wants toremove the front tires and set one jack stand under the center of k frame. His reasoning for this is that 4 point cause binding while three will allow the car to set straight and relaxed. Can anyone explain to me why this will or will not work? I understand why you can't jack the car up but he feels that the way he is doing it is actually going the extra mile.

What do the instructions that come with the SBF say, or better yet, call MM and ask them.

So when you put the car back on the ground, is it on 3 or 4 wheels?

2000xp8 · May 13, 2015

Better make sure your doors close right, because if they are welded when they don't, you may be getting in and out dukes of hazzard style from now on.

I'm more of a fan of the drive on lift or 4 equal jack stands. The car will stay in whatever position you weld it in.

wells1989 · May 13, 2015

I actually lean more towards agreeing with you guys. Here is the bullets of instructions from mm website

Supplemental Installation Notes
• These instructions are universal for all 1979-04 Mustangs. Steps specific to certain model years will be indicated accordingly.
• All welding must be done with a MIG welder.
• The car’s weight must be on the tires or supported with jack stands positioned on the rear axle housing and k-member.
• Clean all areas to be welded down to the bare metal for the best welding results. This includes the Subframe Connectors if they are powder coated.
• You may find that the floor pan and/or frame rails of your Mustang were bent upwards because of previous improper use of a jack, especially near the rearward mounting bolts for the front seats. If necessary, remove the seat(s) and pound the bent area(s) down, using your foot or a rubber mallet.
• The top surfaces of the bare Subframe Connectors and Seat Braces must be coated with weldable Zinc Primer before welding to prevent rusting. This is not needed if the pieces are powdercoated.
• The Subframe Connectors and chassis frame rails must be coated after welding to prevent rusting.

mikestang63 · May 13, 2015

wells1989 said:
I actually lean more towards agreeing with you guys. Here is the bullets of instructions from mm website

Supplemental Installation Notes
• These instructions are universal for all 1979-04 Mustangs. Steps specific to certain model years will be indicated accordingly.
• All welding must be done with a MIG welder.
• The car’s weight must be on the tires or supported with jack stands positioned on the rear axle housing and k-member.
• Clean all areas to be welded down to the bare metal for the best welding results. This includes the Subframe Connectors if they are powder coated.
• You may find that the floor pan and/or frame rails of your Mustang were bent upwards because of previous improper use of a jack, especially near the rearward mounting bolts for the front seats. If necessary, remove the seat(s) and pound the bent area(s) down, using your foot or a rubber mallet.
• The top surfaces of the bare Subframe Connectors and Seat Braces must be coated with weldable Zinc Primer before welding to prevent rusting. This is not needed if the pieces are powdercoated.
• The Subframe Connectors and chassis frame rails must be coated after welding to prevent rusting.

That's because we're right. This ain't our first rodeo with these cars.

wells1989 · May 13, 2015

I understand your experience however you were the one whom told me to refer to mm instructions which states I can do it either way. On all four tires or on three jack stands.

OldManRiver · May 13, 2015

Not sure where you get 3 jack stands from.It could be read to mean on the wheels or 2 jack stands,right?
Place 2 under the axle tubes and 2 under the K-member near where the a-arm mounts are,this is shown with pics in the install instructions.

I made up 4 large blocks out of 4X4 lumber sandwiched together with 1/2" plywood.The assembled blocks measure 12'' high x 8" wide x 8" long.With the tires setting on the 12'' tall blocks there was plenty of room under the car to weld comfortably.

wells1989 · May 13, 2015

you are correct it doesn't say three stands so 4 stands does make sence. I miss read. Do you do any kind of measuring to the frame or chasis other than making sure it is setting level. For instance reverse any sag or tweak that might be in a 25 year old car.

Shakerhood · May 14, 2015

Once you have it supported properly make sure you are able to easily open and close the doors.

wells1989 · May 23, 2015

HELP.

last night i pulled into a car show popped my hood and realized a small scuff on the apex of my strut tower brace. i looked on the underside of the hood to find that it was rubbing. I have a small scuff and indent in the duct work for my ram air. Had anyone else had this issue? How could I resolve it? I adjusted the latch up as much as possible but it is still rubbing. Only other option is try a all amont of spacer under the hinges but can't go to much or the body lines will not line up.

Mustang5L5 · May 24, 2015

Bullitt springs, a quality adjustable shock/strut

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Suspension Lowering Setups

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