lowering springs

the98stang · Sep 28, 2006

Hey guys I need some lower spring info. I'm a noob when it comes to suspension so forgive me for the stupid questions. First off, how big of a drop can I go before needing caster camber plates? Also, how long would my stock struts and shocks last? I'm kind of short on cash right now, so I thought I could put the springs in now and wait for the stock struts/shocks to blow. But when replacing struts/shocks do you have to remove the springs? That would be a pain to remove/install the springs more than once. And how would this affect my 1/4 mile time? I heard that lowering springs will make your quarter mile time worse. What's the largest tire you can fit with like a 1.5" drop? Pictures would be nice too...so I can get an idea of the drop I want. Thanks for any info guys!

Tanner

BlackenedSVT · Sep 28, 2006

waiting to install struts/shocks later wont hurt. as long as its not too much later. They will just wear down faster and you'll have a ****ty ride quality thats all. And no you dont have to remove the springs to install new shocks/struts. I have the Eibach Pro-Kit and my drop is 1.25" all around. Its a very nice kit, i'd recommend it if you're a drag strip guy. Or i'd recommend some Ford C-springs, although they only drop about an inch.

I also installed C&C plates when i insatlled my struts and springs. But thats just me, not sure if you NEED them.

MaroonMustangGT · Sep 29, 2006

you can hold off on the struts and shocks (i have for 2 years) cc plates are always a good idea. i ran eibach sportlines without them and the inside of my tires were done in a couple months.

the98stang · Sep 29, 2006

think i would need cc plates with ford racing springs?

98V6 K.I.T.T. · Sep 29, 2006

the springs wont exactly change quarter mile times, but a very stiff and low drop will cause your car to launch alittle different because of the different weight transfer properties...however I think with enough practice the difference wont be too dramatic. Unless your a hard core drag guy, go with a drop that will appeal to you, anything less the 1.5" doesn't look low enough for a street car. I would recommend H&R SS springs if you want something like that.

Disturbed One · Sep 29, 2006

You can do the bullitt suspension, m-5400-a, if I remember that right. That'll get you springs, shocks, struts and new sway bars right around $400. I did that to my car along with Steeda X2 balljoints and the car has a very very slight rake stance too it, not much unless you catch it at the right angle. The car sits nice and low compared a stock one but not too low to where it has affected my 1/4 mile times. I did put MM C/C plates in also just for the case of ever wanting to go lower then I am now but not needed.

BooWFO · Sep 29, 2006

generally speaking when you go 1.5" drop or more CC plates are really needed. There are some that for whatever reason are still able to get an spec alignement with more but they seem to be far and few between.
Also if you look at the way the suspension works I'm not sure if more than a 1.5" drop will give better handling.

I'm running the Eibach ProKit's. IMO for an all around car they are the best, good ride quality, good weight transfer at the track, good handling.
Now for looks the H&R's hands down.

As for how they look and etc. clicky just go through I even took pics when I installed the prokits of what the intial drop was.

Pennywise2 · Sep 29, 2006

These guys pretty much anwsered your questions.
As far as springs go I would consider the H&R Supersports.
Steeda or Maximum Motorsport caster camber plates are
both good choices.Koni,Tokico,and Bilstien are all decent brands
for struts and shocks.I am sure you could go some time without
changing your struts and shocks but,soon after your drop you will
want to replace them.Right after you install your springs you have
to get a alignment so you don't go through a set of tires every
six months lol.

Warrior 102 · Sep 29, 2006

What exactly CC plates are?Somebody please explain..........

GDawg · Sep 29, 2006

Warrior 102 said:
What exactly CC plates are?Somebody please explain..........

They give you more adjustment of your caster and/or camber than stock.

My H&R SuperSports...

My Maximum Motorsports Caster/Camber plates...

I also have Bilstein Struts and Shocks...

And I painted the ugly calipers...

98V6 K.I.T.T. · Sep 29, 2006

Just a side question, it seems like many people go with Maximum motorsport CC plates, any reason? I tend to side with Steeda, I just see more MM's then Steeda's.

urban96 · Sep 29, 2006

how do you like those bilsteins?

Warrior 102 · Sep 29, 2006

I just purchase this combo http://www.autocarparts.com/part/245/6/ do I need cc plates for it?
Dos anyone running shorter springs whit out this plates?

the98stang · Sep 30, 2006

Those H&R springs look damn sexy. But how do they handle? I had Prokit springs on my 98 v6 with Tokico shocks/struts and that things rode ROUGH. I mean, I felt every damn bump in the road. I also had FRPP CC plates, and still had trouble with the alignment .

How would a 1.5" drop affect my 1/4 time compared to a 1.25" drop? I just want some springs that won't make the car really stiff/ride rough. I think I'll wait for the stock struts/shocks to crap out with the springs because I'm poor

Rusty67 · Sep 30, 2006

Camber caster plates are a good idea even if you don't put new springs in at all. They allow for much more precise adjustment of the car's alignment. You can change it up a bit and get the car to ride more to your liking without puting anything else in. If you are going to drop the car at all I would put CC plates in. It makes sense to do it all at once (struts as well) because you gota pull it all out anyways.

Tomorrow I'm going to be puting in a set of MM CC plates. I had the hole front end apart to change my springs and struts. I thought I had my CC plates but I moved recently and couldn't find them. Now I'm going back to redo that part of the job a few weeks later and I'm not looking forward to it. Doing it all at once is MUCH nicer.

san~man · Sep 30, 2006

98V6 K.I.T.T. said:
Just a side question, it seems like many people go with Maximum motorsport CC plates, any reason? I tend to side with Steeda, I just see more MM's then Steeda's.

Because the MM is one of the best on the market.

Go to www.maximummotorsports.com and search for part number MMCC9994. The pdf sheet explains why theirs is the best.

Many people, including me, use their products for a reason...they are the best IMO as far as $$ spent/performance return.

todd4566 · Oct 1, 2006

I lowered my GT 2" and didn't need CC plates to get in alligned within spec.. never changed my struts either. I lowered the Mach 1 1.25 all around and needed CC plates badly. To get an idea if you'll need plates, check to see where your stock plates are located; if the rivet is in the middle spot you probably have enough adjustment to stay stock.

My recommendation, after lowering the GT cheap and the Mach 1 not-so-cheap, is to just cough up the cash & do it right. Get springs/plates/struts/shocks all in one.. a bumpsteer kit would be a plus too! Even if you don't need the plates for camber, a little caster is a definite plus.

mity2 · Oct 1, 2006

In theory,u do not need C/C plate if your dropp is < 1.5". But i would still get them, as it'll give you far more adjustability, and makes it easier to get it aligned.

the98stang · Oct 1, 2006

What rivets are you guys talking about on the CC plates? Do you have pictures?

Thanks!

Tanner

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