MAF conversion problem

One thread on a subject is good. I deleted your other thread in tuning.

Post the details on the MAF meter used, and ecu...
part numbers and catch codes...

88lx50ab said:

the computer is : eecIV-5fi-ma12 E92F-12A650-C2A
the meter is just a stock from an 89 i think
i'm not sure what you mean about the catch codes

Click to expand...

Those ecu numbers don't really mean much to me (or most others)...
We generally use the catch code to distinguish between ecu's.
A9L, A9P, X3Z, A3M, A3M1... these digits should be in large bold letters.

Please look for part numbers on the MAF, especially if it is one that you bought used...
F2VF-....
F1ZF-.....


I can't say for sure that a parts mismatch is causing your issues, but it is worth looking at.

Have you pulled codes?

Here's some help to dump the computer codes...

Dump the codes and see what the computer says is wrong…Codes may be present in the computer even if the Check Engine light isn’t on.

Here's the link to dump the computer codes with only a jumper wire or paper clip and the check engine light, or test light or voltmeter. I’ve used it for years, and it works great. You watch the flashing test lamp or Check Engine Light and count the flashes.

See Troublcodes.net Trouble Codes OBD & OBD2 Trouble Codes and Technical info & Tool Store. By BAT Auto Technical





If your car is an 86-88 stang, you'll have to use the test lamp or voltmeter method. There is no functional check engine light on the 86-88's except possibly the Cali Mass Air cars.



The STI has a gray connector shell and a white/red wire. It comes from the same bundle of wires as the self test connector.

89 through 95 cars have a working Check Engine light. Watch it instead of using a test lamp.



The STI has a gray connector shell and a white/red wire. It comes from the same bundle of wires as the self test connector.


There is a single dark brown connector with a black/orange wire. It is the 12 volt power to the under the hood light. Do not jumper it to the computer test connector. If you do, you will damage the computer.

What to expect:
You should get a code 11 (two single flashes in succession). This says that the computer's internal workings are OK, and that the wiring to put the computer into diagnostic mode is good. No code 11 and you have some wiring problems.

Codes have different answers if the engine is running from the answers that it has when the engine isn't running. It helps a lot to know if you had the engine running when you ran the test.

Trouble codes are either 2 digit or 3 digit, there are no cars that use both 2 digit codes and 3 digit codes.

Alternate methods:
For those who are intimidated by all the wires & connections, see Actron® for what a typical hand scanner looks like. Normal retail price is about $30 or so at AutoZone or Wal-Mart.

Or for a nicer scanner see EQUUS DIGITAL FORD CODE READER (3145) – It has a 3 digit LCD display so that you don’t have to count flashes or beeps.. Cost is $30.

88lx50ab said:

ecu is A9P and
the sensor is a 4 pin e9zf-12b579-aa
afh55-03
9j12

Click to expand...

Those numbers match up.
As long as you are running 19's, and the MAF housing is the Fox 55mm unit, then the problem is elsewhere...

Focus in on jrichkers info, and see what codes you get.

jason

If you want to know that rich set is she is in morning mode under code. So, once the water temp or say it is even timed to shut off is it falls within the backup system and that rich in the morning is the morning map under code is all.

You could live with that code is never repair the car ever. That is the beauty of the computer and how it works in the absolute is do not worry if you think about it. I run about 5 codes, so I know what that puppy is doing is you described it perfectly is dare you go.