Also, when I drove the car with the MAF unplugged it didn't really seem to make a difference. With all this said, if the MAF is bad it isn't triggering a CEL.
This is usually a tell-tale sign that either the MAF is bad or the wiring between the MAF and PCM is bad. I've had 3 different MAF's go out on me, and everytime (this time with a brand new C&L!! ) my car ran just the same with the MAF unplugged as it did plugged in.
This is usually a tell-tale sign that either the MAF is bad or the wiring between the MAF and PCM is bad. I've had 3 different MAF's go out on me, and everytime (this time with a brand new C&L!! ) my car ran just the same with the MAF unplugged as it did plugged in.
Weird... I was reading around yesterday and I think I'm also going to check the charcoal canister because when I first turn my engine on it smells like gas fumes. Also, the idle is the most unstable after the car has been sitting overnight - usually I pull out of the driveway and stop at the end of the street and the idle dips right down to like 400rpm and then jumps back up...
I'm really reluctant to replace the MAF without knowing it's actually bad, but I agree with what you said - it's strange that my car would run without it plugged in.
Car hestitates at RPM > 3000 after it reaches full operating temp. The hotter it gets outside, the worse it is. The higher I keep the revs, the worse it gets. If I shut the car off and start it again, it gets better for awhile. Never overheats. Already replaced plugs and one of the coils.
Car hestitates at RPM > 3000 after it reaches full operating temp. The hotter it gets outside, the worse it is. The higher I keep the revs, the worse it gets. If I shut the car off and start it again, it gets better for awhile. Never overheats. Already replaced plugs and one of the coils.
This question is going to sound really dumb: Isn't there supposed to be charcoal in the "Charcoal Canister"?
Well, in an effort to hunt down my unstable idle problem, I decided to check the charcoal canister... Once I found it, this is what I saw:
While I was taking off the wheel splash guard, I noticed the fasteners looked like they were removed before, so I'm wondering if maybe the previous owner took the charcoal out for some reason??!
Can someone confirm for me that this is the charcoal canister? I guess I expected it to be bigger than this.
I've been having trouble with unstable idling and sluggish performance. I've already replaced the fuel filter, installed K&N air filter, replaced PVC valve, cleaned IAC, MAF wires, and fuel injectors, replaced plugs, checked EGR valve, checked for vacuum leaks. I don't have tons of $$ so I don't want to just replace the MAF to eliminate it as the cause. It does seem strange to me that the SIG and GND would appear to have 0 resistance between the two pins. Also, when I drove the car with the MAF unplugged it didn't really seem to make a difference. With all this said, if the MAF is bad it isn't triggering a CEL.
Same here, if i unplug my maf, my car will still run, the idle gets a little rough but thats it and if anything it sounds like the top end has improved (much crisper throttle response up top) since i was only revving it in neutral. So any body think my maf is bad too, i tried another stock maf i had laying around and it does the same.