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Major electrical upgrades, DOUBLE CHECK MY WORK!

  • Thread starter Thread starter black_demon
  • Start date Start date Jun 18, 2010
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black_demon

Founding Member
Jan 27, 2001
474
0
16
Daly City
Jun 18, 2010
#1
  • Jun 18, 2010
  • #1
This weekend i finally have some time to install the following:

Painless 10220 18 circuit trunk mount kit (same as Edbert)
3g alternator
Mini Starter
Battery relocated to trunk
Headlight relays
Starter solenoid replaced by Bosch type relay

for those with the knowledge and experience with replacing the harnesses and these components, please look over my diagram and let me know what needs to be changed. I did not include the headlight relays as they will pretty much follow starter solenoid relay setup

Thanks to Edbert for providing his schematics from his install and Tim65gt with all his help on 3g/starter relay info
 

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Tim65GT

Active Member
Feb 24, 2004
1,149
2
39
West Texas
Jun 18, 2010
#2
  • Jun 18, 2010
  • #2
I think you should use bigger than 8 ga from the dist block to the starter. The starter is the single highest current draw component of the whole system.

On mine, I ran a 1/0 from my trunk battery directly to the starter and then a 4 ga to my distribution block which is in the original battery location.

What is the B+ terminal beween the dist block and the relay? I assume you are going to use it for other circuits to tap off.

Where are your dist block, fuse block and the B+ located?

The wire #960 from the Dist Block to the junction doesn't specify, but it should be at least a 6 ga with a 70A fuse feeding the fuse block. After the junction, the Alternator "sense" wire goes unprotected to the Alternator ("A" on the Alt plug). If chafed through and grounds out it could catch fire. A 5A fuse is plenty as not much current goes through it. This might not be an issue if the route to the alternator is direct and doesn't have a chance of getting pinched or chafed to metal ground on anything.

The last alternator wire from the fuse box #915 should be the Ignition sourced "Excitation" power, right? ("I" on the Alt plug) 3G alternators require a Resistor in-line with this circuit to simulate the Alternator or charge indicator lamp. (about 560 ohms works).

Looks like a pretty good plan though. Make sure you use the right size terminals, make good crimps, secure and protect the harness, and use grommets whenever going through metal.
 
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black_demon

Founding Member
Jan 27, 2001
474
0
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Daly City
Jun 22, 2010
#3
  • Jun 22, 2010
  • #3
Tim65GT said:
I think you should use bigger than 8 ga from the dist block to the starter.

What is the B+ terminal beween the dist block and the relay? I assume you are going to use it for other circuits to tap off.

Where are your dist block, fuse box and the B+ located?

The wire #960 from the Dist Block to the junction doesn't specify, but it should be at least a 6 ga with a 70A fuse....

The last alternator wire from the fuse box #915 should be the Ignition sourced "Excitation" power, right? ("I" on the Alt plug) 3G alternators require a Resistor in-line with this circuit .....
Click to expand...

-changed the 8ga to 4ga from starter to distribution block; routed 1/0ga from battery to starter

-B+ terminal is a point for other circuits to tap off of

-the distribution block, maxi and mega fuse block and b+ terminal will most likely be mounted in the fenderwell in some type of custom enclosure or mounting plate

-wire #960 is 10ga from painless, should i change change this to 6ga?

-wire #915 is alternator b+, 914 is the alternator exciter wire
 

Tim65GT

Active Member
Feb 24, 2004
1,149
2
39
West Texas
Jun 22, 2010
#4
  • Jun 22, 2010
  • #4
-wire #960 is 10ga from painless, should i change change this to 6ga?
Click to expand...

No, I'm sure the 10 ga is fine, but it should be fused at 30 amps, 40 tops, but 70 is too high for 10ga wire.

-wire #915 is alternator b+, 914 is the alternator exciter wire
Click to expand...

Why to you have the extra B+ going to the alternator from the fusebox?

The 3G only requires the ignition sourced exitation voltage and the sense line is optional. You can tie it to the B+ terminal or run it to the battery in the trunk (that's what I did) and it adjust the charge output to make up for votage drop.

 
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