Ok well here is the deal.After many many hrs and sweat blood and tears (as we all know ) on my engine buildup.While stiitng at a light one day i heard this faint knocking noise that got louder and louder ...then i **** myself as i heard it it did not sound good ...anyways ill make it shorter upon further reveiw it turns out theat the screw that holds in the butterfly on my t/b cam eout and got sucked into my intake and ended up taking out one of my pistons and screwin up a head (i had that milled down a lil ) anyways it got stuck in the piston and broke off but my issue is that it took a lil peice out of the block where the top of the piston stroke is im ataching a pic.I am wondering if i could use the block still? any way of fixing it ? would it be reliable still ? i dont know im looking for a direction to take ..i really dont want to have to buy another block ...any sujestions are much appreciated.
Amazing that one little screw could ...um ... SCREW up a block. Severely sucks to see the damage.
This is going to sound totally stupid and probably isn't a valid solution, but I'll throw it out there, anyway: JB Weld's Industro-Weld? Maybe slime some on there ever so delicately, allow it to fully cure, buzz it down with a Dremel, and then hone it to match the rest of the cylinder walls. I've heard of this stuff being used to patch cracked engine blocks before with success, and seeing that this isn't a complete structural breach, it just might work for it. Then again, with the rings slicing past it all of the time, who knows how it'd wear. I dunno.
That's the best I can offer, aside from boring the hell out of ALL of the cylinders to match ... and then you run the risk of cutting things too thin.
They do make a material that is applied in liquid form, it hardens and can be milled and bored or machined as needed. I don't know what it's called but I'm sure a good machine shop knows about it.
Is the chip inside the sealing ring on the head gasket? Is it above where the top ring rides? If it's inside the headgasket seal and the ring is below it, it might be possible to run it that way.
Yes i thought of the jb weld myself but i dont know if i really feel happy doing that i dont want any probs in the future ...and yes it is sorta close ot the gasket side..i was just thinking dont they sell gaskets that have a bigger diamitor opening maybe i could buy one with a bigger opening and run tham without the chances of having a headgasket leake ..what do you think of that
The little screws that hold the throttle plates on should be "peened over" from the factory so they can't fall out from vibration. If someone took them out and replaced them w/o locktite or peening them they could come loose and fall out. The chip at the top of the cylinder should not hurt anything if it is not in the top ring path which is usually about 1/4" below the top of the cylinder bore. It looks like the head gasket sill has half the sealing area still intact. I would remove any sharp edges on the chip to eliminate any future hot spots.
JB Weld wont work for that. It will just fall off and then you will have another chunk of something flying around in you cylinder. I once saw a cylinder head that a 1/4" nut got into. The whole combustion chamber was dent all to heII and there was a perfect hex hole punched through to the water jacket.
yea well it was a brand new holley t/b and i only got about 1500 miles with the new motor before this happened..but summit racing took care of me pretty much covered the parts and all gaskets and gave me some credit towards future purchases i have ot say they were great not there fault but they will pass it all on to holley anyways..thats why i always try to buy form the BIG company ..something hapens usually easeir to get something back then from a asmall fry.yea its not that deep .so i think that its not in the ring path .but i am just so worried about future issues
Wow, that's really too bad. I don't have much to add seing as they covered everything. It's great that Summit is gonna help you out that much. Good luck.
i've heard of this happening a few times to people and im wondering if there is any way to prevent this from happening? im building a new motor soon and i'd hate to see my $5,000 motor go down the tubes from one screw
Just like thehueypilot said, be sure to smooth down the rough edes of the chipped area to prevent hot spots and preignition. If it doesn't go into the fire ring on the head gasket and the piston rings don't travel up that far, just smooth it out and let it ride.
I have a block bored .030 sitting in the closet with new cam bearings and brass freeze plugs. I'm in Gainesville, so pm me if you're interested. Cost might be some jumping jacks (plus gas to drive).
my thought was to machine the side .but the prob is that i already had to machine the head for that side .if i was to machine the top deck of that side of the motor at all im really messin with the comp. a lil to much for my taste although i know that i can get diff. thickness gaskets to compinsate for that.im more of a perfetionist so i really dont even want to go there.i am looking at a 331 short block from dss to replace the dss 306 (this motor) .but thank you everyone for all your input..so stock motor going back in ..and i think it will be up for sale .i have a 95 i think i am going to transfer everything else over to ..dont scream all you fox body lovers.lol ok and thanks for the offer blandnuts ill let you know.
Oh yea reason im thinking of getting a whole new short block is that one of the pistons is scred up also dents in it and hole punched in it from he screw and dss doesnt make the pistons anymore so just getting one piston and getting it rebalanced is out of the question so i have to get all new pistons. so why take a chance with the block ..and add up cost of pistons and rebalance ..hell might as well go 331 right. lol just thought i would share my idea on why .again thanks everyone