Major Problems after intake swap on carb'd 5.0

FoxBodyGT · Jul 31, 2006

I guess I was lucky when I put an intake on and took the dizzy out. I marked where the TFI module was in reference to the block, dropped the dizzy in the exact same spot and bolted it all together--fired up perfectly first time.

I have responded to your post on other boards, so I won't beat a dead horse, but just keep plugging away.

Killer50stang · Jul 31, 2006

Read this and you can't fail on my website.

ftp://ftp.pothsprojects.com/Set timing.pdf

Jason

Dohc32vMarkVIII · Jul 31, 2006

Also, I just noticed that my throttle linkage is getting STUCK! Not just the cable, the part that is attatched to the carb and springs back when you let off the gas. GAHHHHHHHHHHH!!! Should I removed the carb or is there a quick way to fix this?

Killer50stang · Jul 31, 2006

Dohc32vMarkVIII said:
Also, I just noticed that my throttle linkage is getting STUCK! Not just the cable, the part that is attatched to the carb and springs back when you let off the gas. GAHHHHHHHHHHH!!! Should I removed the carb or is there a quick way to fix this?

Replace the spring if it's not coming back...not much to that. Check out my site on setting timing and firing order.

Jason

Dohc32vMarkVIII · Jul 31, 2006

All day the throttle linkage was getting stuck a little, and causing the spring between itself and the idle screw to dislodge. As per my pervious post, it's way off and won't move, really stuck.

So I removed the carb. Hey that doesn't look right.........

Anyone in the Plymouth/Carver South Shore area of Mass have an extra stock Holley?

:evil: :evil: :evil:

FoxBodyGT · Jul 31, 2006

that other throttle blade didnt' fall into the motor, did it?

dragnazz5.0 · Jul 31, 2006

Dohc32vMarkVIII said:
All day the throttle linkage was getting stuck a little, and causing the spring between itself and the idle screw to dislodge. As per my pervious post, it's way off and won't move, really stuck.

So I removed the carb. Hey that doesn't look right.........

Anyone in the Plymouth/Carver South Shore area of Mass have an extra stock Holley?

:evil: :evil: :evil:

n0t g00d. g0nna have t0 rem0ve the baseplate and either buy a new 0ne 0r try t0 fix that 0ne. but y0ur best bet is t0 just buy a new 0ne. that sucks a big 0ne man.

Killer50stang said:
Read this and you can't fail on my website.

ftp://ftp.pothsprojects.com/Set timing.pdf

Jason

thanks f0r the link. ill add it t0 my archive if y0u d0nt mind

dastang2 · Jul 31, 2006

holy ****nit but that wouldn't cause it to not fire up. are there screws in the engine now. that blows. if you can, you should put the cylinders in tdc and suck the screws out with a vacuum or use a magnet on each cylinder until you get them. oh yeah i don't need that carb because i finally figured out my problem.

Dohc32vMarkVIII · Jul 31, 2006

dragnazz5.0 said:
n0t g00d. g0nna have t0 rem0ve the baseplate and either buy a new 0ne 0r try t0 fix that 0ne. but y0ur best bet is t0 just buy a new 0ne. that sucks a big 0ne man.

thanks f0r the link. ill add it t0 my archive if y0u d0nt mind

Dude, I have a spare keyboard, I'll just ship it to you. That would drive me insane.

I should be back from Amherst around 4am tonight with my carb....

Dohc32vMarkVIII · Jul 31, 2006

Oh s---, I just thought of something else. If any part of that little screw fell into the motor, what are the chance it's in my the engine and going to cause it to go BOOM? I have a bad feeling I just doomed my motor The screw heads are no where to be found, and i can't see anything inside of the intake. How much damage will they cause in the motor?

bluevenom867 · Jul 31, 2006

If you already been cranking it...

Hear any loud noises?

Dohc32vMarkVIII · Aug 1, 2006

Got back around 5am with the carb, took a nap, and just now getting around to looking at everything. Turns out the carb is a Holley 1850 with manual choke (which I'm assuming I have to set by hand on cold mornings) Now, the stock idle solenoid doesn't look like it's going to fit well with this carb, is there one I can buy that will work?

Here's a picture of the exact carb I have in my hands:

bluevenom867 · Aug 1, 2006

It should work,see if you can just buy another braket for the solinoid.

Killer50stang · Aug 1, 2006

dragnazz5.0 said:
n0t g00d. g0nna have t0 rem0ve the baseplate and either buy a new 0ne 0r try t0 fix that 0ne. but y0ur best bet is t0 just buy a new 0ne. that sucks a big 0ne man.

thanks f0r the link. ill add it t0 my archive if y0u d0nt mind

Don't mind at all. Just here to help.

Jason

90bluegt · Aug 1, 2006

Umm. If that picture is correct on the first page of this and your putting the distr cap on and that's were the rotor hit for TDC then you are totally 180* out and need to change it. The rotor should point just about at the #1 cylinder at TDC on the compression stroke.

That picture shows the rotor pointing almost towards the drivers side head light. That means it's 180* out.

Dohc32vMarkVIII · Aug 1, 2006

90bluegt said:
Umm. If that picture is correct on the first page of this and your putting the distr cap on and that's were the rotor hit for TDC then you are totally 180* out and need to change it. The rotor should point just about at the #1 cylinder at TDC on the compression stroke.

That picture shows the rotor pointing almost towards the drivers side head light. That means it's 180* out.

I've read so many different things about this. Someone said it should be at 12 oclock pointing at the firewall, someone said pointing at #1 cylinder, and so on. Is there any concrete article with pictures that will show this? I have concrete pics someone took of their car with it pointing straight back at the firewall

90bluegt · Aug 1, 2006

Well if you totally want to know then put the engine at TDC then put the dizzy in pointing the toward the firewall and see if it starts, then put the engine at TDC on the compression stroke and see if she starts.
I have rebuilt a few engines and helped friends with theirs and have always put the engine at TDC on the compression stroke and put the dizzy in pointing at the the #1 cylinder. Never had an issue with the car starting.

I would get a hayes manual on your stang and look in there. If you going to work on it more then I would really suggest getting the book. It can be invaluable. I have the book on how to build performance ford small block engines, it focuses on the 5.0 engine.

Dohc32vMarkVIII · Aug 1, 2006

90bluegt said:
Well if you totally want to know then put the engine at TDC then put the dizzy in pointing the toward the firewall and see if it starts, then put the engine at TDC on the compression stroke and see if she starts.
I have rebuilt a few engines and helped friends with theirs and have always put the engine at TDC on the compression stroke and put the dizzy in pointing at the the #1 cylinder. Never had an issue with the car starting.

I would get a hayes manual on your stang and look in there. If you going to work on it more then I would really suggest getting the book. It can be invaluable. I have the book on how to build performance ford small block engines, it focuses on the 5.0 engine.

I have that exact book, but I lost it

jrichker · Aug 1, 2006

Putting the distributor back in is fairly simple. Pull #1 sparkplug, put your finger in the sparkplug hole, crank the engine until you feel compression. Then line up the TDC mark on the balancer with the pointer on the engine block.

The distributor starts out with the #1 plug wire lined up at about 12:00 with you facing it. Align the rotor to about 11:00, since it will turn clockwise as it slides into place.

Slide the distributor down into the block, (you may have to wiggle the rotor slightly to get the gear to engage) and then note where the rotor is pointing. If it still lines up with #1 position on the cap, install the clamp and bolt. If not, pull it out and turn 1 tooth forwards or backwards and try again. Put the #1 spark plug back in and tighten it down, put the clamp on the distributor, but don't tighten it too much, as you will have to move the distributor to set the timing. Note that if it doesn't align perfectly with #1 position, you can turn the distributor until it does. The only problem is that if you are too far one way or the other, you can't turn the distributor enough to get the 10-14 degree optimum timing range.

At this point hook up all the wires, get out the timing light and start the engine. Set the timing where your car runs best. Don't forget to disconnect the SPOUT jumper connector when you set the timing, and plug it back in when you finish if you have the EFI distributor.

Dohc32vMarkVIII · Aug 1, 2006

After thinking about it, I think I know what happend to the screws on the butterfly. The first time I went to fire the car over after installing the intake manifold, I got a BIG backfire. That's when I believe the screws sheared off.

OK, got the new carb bolted on and I used a flexible magnetic want to feel around inside of the intake runners that the screws might have gone down, nothing, threw it into the cylinders leading from it (2,3,5,8) and nothing. So I'm going to remove the spark plugs from those cylinders and crank the car to hopefully blow anything out that way.

Now, when I am leaning over the car wrenching on the plugs I'm staring at the manifold and I see something reflective, like reflection off of water....wierd that's a small puddle of liquid. Huh, I'm swab it up with a paper towel. Why did that not get it?

....

Beacause what I am seeing is the top of a waterjacket?! Can someone tell me if a water jacket runs through the two middle intake manifold bolts?

Here's an MS Paint of what I'm looking at:

WHEN WILL IT END! I WAS SO CLOSE TO BEING FINISHED

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