any suggestions on porting an iron head?
aluminum isnt so bad, but i hear iron is a b***h to do...
another question, any suggestions on an upgraded valvetrain? i have a n2o kit, and i figure ported head/exhaust manifold/valvetrain would really help the n2o kit thrive....
any suggestions on porting an iron head?
aluminum isnt so bad, but i hear iron is a b***h to do...
another question, any suggestions on an upgraded valvetrain? i have a n2o kit, and i figure ported head/exhaust manifold/valvetrain would really help the n2o kit thrive....
It's not too bad if you have some patience. To get an iron head where I like it, I usually spend about 35 to 45 hours on it. Check out my website (http://www.binaryweb.com) and look around for some pics of my ported heads. If I remember correctly, you can't go hardly any more than 0.450" lift on the stock valvetrain without having to have machine work done... high lift screws up the geometry.
It's not too bad if you have some patience. To get an iron head where I like it, I usually spend about 35 to 45 hours on it. Check out my website (http://www.binaryweb.com) and look around for some pics of my ported heads. If I remember correctly, you can't go hardly any more than 0.450" lift on the stock valvetrain without having to have machine work done... high lift screws up the geometry.
Iron is easier for a beginner because it is harder to mess up by taking a big chunk of metal out.
.450" also is where alot of 2.3 heads stall on flow unless a pretty good porter got to them, so going higher is usually unnecessary anyway. I'm still curious how boport on turboford got 250cfm out of a ported turbo head, but he's being tight-lipped like its a military secret or something.
If he told everyone his secret, his business wouldn't be so lucrative. Kinda like telling everyone how Coca-Cola is made. The guy does killer work though.
so what would you recommend going over on the head?
.400? .375?
and for the valves, what is a recommendation on how oversized i should get them? what brand?
sorry to bother, but i want to get this done right, and not half ass...i tried to half ass my ranger header swap, and bend up my mustang egr tube up to fit on the ranger header, and had to go buy another one so i could weld it up like i shoulda done in the first place,
If he told everyone his secret, his business wouldn't be so lucrative. Kinda like telling everyone how Coca-Cola is made. The guy does killer work though
I figured I set myself up to hear that. I know that it's not in his best interest to give it away, especially when he ports heads for a living. However, I would rather not even know about it if no one is going to say anything more than "I did it." What does he get for ported head anyway?
Secrecy by everyone about everything seems to be a regular(and irritating) trend at turboford. Half the time someone asks a "public knowledge" type question, the answer is "pm me to find out."
Shinlee- If you're going to get the head done, consider big valves as well. I don't know about the N/A head, but the turbos at least will take up to 1.89/1.59 valves and its almost mandatory in order to pick up a lot of flow. For a DD street car, I personally would keep the lift down below the practical max of .450".
I have an 89 2.3 LX notch auto for my daughter, and it has a 3.73 open rear axle. In my estimation, with up to 3 people in the car, it ain't slow!
Off the dime the little pup will move out smartly. I have been very pleased with it since I got it. I have two 5.0 cars, and don't feel at all slow in the 89. I really like the 25 mpg also. I think it would handle a 4.10, as it is running at very low rpms at 35-40 mph, so this should not hurt mileage much.
She got a Grand Cherokee from her granddad, so now I have the Mustang. I have a T5 for it, if I get time and ambition to install it.