Ok, well then I think I've only got one more thing to be concerned about. Will this thing work with a 4-speed center console ?
Send me one for testing, I'll let you know how well it works ;-)
Send me one for testing, I'll let you know how well it works ;-)
I'm working on a console version as well. The difference is obvious:Ok, well then I think I've only got one more thing to be concerned about. Will this thing work with a 4-speed center console ?
Send me one for testing, I'll let you know how well it works ;-)
68RCodeConv
New Member
First off, I really appreciate all the new products you have developed for these cars.
I don't mean to be critical but I'm not nuts about the angle of the shifter ball relative to the handle.
If you think about a classic Hurst shifter or the factory shifter the handle was directly away from you when in second or fourth and not quite vertical when in first and third. Thus it was out of your way all through the shift pattern and you could cup the shifter ball in the palm of your hand the entire time. You cold have your hand on top of the ball (like holding a bicycle handlebar) or on the side (like holding a beer). You could even shift with your hand palms up if you wanted to.
I'm concerned that your design would have the sharp bend in the shifter handle contacting the palm of your hand or your wrist while you are shifting aggressively. You would have to loop your hand up and over the top of the ball when shifting to first or third.
As for the "reach" problem, I'm using the "stock appearing" handle on the Steeda Tri-ax (T5) in my 67 and I don't have any problems reaching third. Even with my seat relocated 2.5" rearward. Although it is kind of pricey.
I don't mean to be critical but I'm not nuts about the angle of the shifter ball relative to the handle.
If you think about a classic Hurst shifter or the factory shifter the handle was directly away from you when in second or fourth and not quite vertical when in first and third. Thus it was out of your way all through the shift pattern and you could cup the shifter ball in the palm of your hand the entire time. You cold have your hand on top of the ball (like holding a bicycle handlebar) or on the side (like holding a beer). You could even shift with your hand palms up if you wanted to.
I'm concerned that your design would have the sharp bend in the shifter handle contacting the palm of your hand or your wrist while you are shifting aggressively. You would have to loop your hand up and over the top of the ball when shifting to first or third.
As for the "reach" problem, I'm using the "stock appearing" handle on the Steeda Tri-ax (T5) in my 67 and I don't have any problems reaching third. Even with my seat relocated 2.5" rearward. Although it is kind of pricey.
Thnkas for the input -- that why I posted this here. I know what you're saying about it looking like your hand would hit, but after hundreds of miles of driving this shifter I haven't noticed anything like that. It doesn't tilt forward anywhere close to enough for you to need to give it a reach-around. Once I put the seats in this car I'll rake a pic of it from the driver's perspective in 3rd & 5th so you can see what I mean.
The other real advantage is the short throw of the shifter unit. Attach this lever to a Pro 5.0, and the overall movement is still about a third of what a standard 4 speed shifter would be(rough estimate based on an old somewhat uncalibrated eyeball). It's probably not much more throw than a stock T5 shifter unit with a stock lever (especially when you overshift and bend the forks )
Looks really cool, and an old school chromed version (OK chrome powder coat) would get some grins (IMO).
Now one more thought: How dificult would it be to machine a channel up the bottom thin side to hide the wire for a roll control switch? Like for installing the Hurst Ball with the built in switch... or (as an optional Reen Machine part) even making a "T" lever (similar in fashion to the '65 stock shifter reverse lockout) that would screw on below the handle?
Now that would be really sweet!
In any case, keep up the cool stuff, I just bought a new drool towel.
Looks really cool, and an old school chromed version (OK chrome powder coat) would get some grins (IMO).
Now one more thought: How dificult would it be to machine a channel up the bottom thin side to hide the wire for a roll control switch? Like for installing the Hurst Ball with the built in switch... or (as an optional Reen Machine part) even making a "T" lever (similar in fashion to the '65 stock shifter reverse lockout) that would screw on below the handle?
Now that would be really sweet!
In any case, keep up the cool stuff, I just bought a new drool towel.
I'd probably be interested in the console version one, but in your production units, are you still planning on having "REEN" engraved in them? I'm kind of anal about that sort of thing, and that is what has kept me from buying Uniques handle that is similar.
Cobra ssc
Member
Yes and no. It'll probably not have the two holes, and rather than the REEN the guy put on there when protyping it'll have the reenmachine logo ball-milled into the side.I'd probably be interested in the console version one, but in your production units, are you still planning on having "REEN" engraved in them? I'm kind of anal about that sort of thing, and that is what has kept me from buying Uniques handle that is similar.
iskwezm
10 Year Member
I have a question, would it be possible to make a console version with multiple mounting holes to move it down a 1/2" or so??? I have a B&M Ripper and due to a miss calculation, with the shift boot on, it will not let it stay in 2nd,or 4th becasue the length of the 1st bend is too short.
View attachment 380701
View attachment 380701
I have a question, would it be possible to make a console version with multiple mounting holes to move it down a 1/2" or so??? I have a B&M Ripper and due to a miss calculation, with the shift boot on, it will not let it stay in 2nd,or 4th becasue the length of the 1st bend is too short.
You could just drill new holes yourself could you not ?
iskwezm
10 Year Member
Sure could............ but im lazy and not everybody might like the height of the shifter, so some adjustability might be another selling pointYou could just drill new holes yourself could you not ?
65mistress
Member
Seat-of-the-pants-wise, I love how it feels.
Here's a better pic of it installed:
So what will be coming with a kit? Mounting hardware, shifter, boot? Or just Shifter?
The more that I see that brushed/anodized look, the more I'm liking it. Do you have a price range in mind?
I don't know if this would work. You could only move it down a very small amount before the bottom of the handle hits part of the shifter. You'd have to cut the bottom off. I guess I'd say try the tall version first, then if you want it shorter cut part off and drill new holes.I have a question, would it be possible to make a console version with multiple mounting holes to move it down a 1/2" or so??? I have a B&M Ripper and due to a miss calculation, with the shift boot on, it will not let it stay in 2nd,or 4th becasue the length of the 1st bend is too short.
BlwnGazkit
Member
BullittStangV8
Founding Member
Does it work with a hurst 4 spd toploader set up? If yes....then i may be in for one. I have to lean fowards to hit the higher gears.
BullittStangV8
Founding Member
The plan is just for the shifter handle itself, and I'm trying to keep it under $100.So what will be coming with a kit? Mounting hardware, shifter, boot? Or just Shifter?
The more that I see that brushed/anodized look, the more I'm liking it. Do you have a price range in mind?
They're slotted a little right now, but like I said there's only so far down you can go before you hit something.Could the holes be slotted to allow for that adjustability?
iskwezm
10 Year Member
Thats cool, i can modify if I need to, just figured i'd askI don't know if this would work. You could only move it down a very small amount before the bottom of the handle hits part of the shifter. You'd have to cut the bottom off. I guess I'd say try the tall version first, then if you want it shorter cut part off and drill new holes.
garner67
New Member
The pattern is somewhat up & down, just like a stock 4-speed or the original-looking 5-speed handle. It's probably 25 degrees off of the horizontal plane. You don't notice it when driving, and in fact it makes the 2-3 and 4-5 shifts easier to reach.
I have a T5 with one of the repro stock looking shifter levers with a stock 67 center console. How much farther back towards the driver do you think your new shifter will place the shift knob?
By the way, I really appreciate you sharing all your ideas on this forum. ReenMachine rocks!
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