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  • 1965 - 1973 Classic Mustangs -General/Talk-
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Making billet T-5 shifters...need opinions

  • Thread starter Thread starter reenmachine
  • Start date Start date Jun 14, 2007

Black or clear anodizing?

  • Black

    Votes: 16 35.6%
  • Clear

    Votes: 29 64.4%

  • Total voters
    45
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Rusty67

20+ Year Stangneter
Dec 3, 2002
3,749
37
109
LA, CA
Jun 15, 2007
#21
  • Jun 15, 2007
  • #21
Ok, well then I think I've only got one more thing to be concerned about. Will this thing work with a 4-speed center console ?

Send me one for testing, I'll let you know how well it works ;-)
 

reenmachine

20+ Year Stangneter
Jun 27, 2004
1,258
2
38
Montrose, CA
Jun 15, 2007
#22
  • Jun 15, 2007
  • #22
Rusty67 said:
Ok, well then I think I've only got one more thing to be concerned about. Will this thing work with a 4-speed center console ?

Send me one for testing, I'll let you know how well it works ;-)
Click to expand...
I'm working on a console version as well. The difference is obvious:

 
6

68RCodeConv

New Member
Oct 2, 2003
345
0
0
Houston, TX
Jun 15, 2007
#23
  • Jun 15, 2007
  • #23
First off, I really appreciate all the new products you have developed for these cars.

I don't mean to be critical but I'm not nuts about the angle of the shifter ball relative to the handle.

If you think about a classic Hurst shifter or the factory shifter the handle was directly away from you when in second or fourth and not quite vertical when in first and third. Thus it was out of your way all through the shift pattern and you could cup the shifter ball in the palm of your hand the entire time. You cold have your hand on top of the ball (like holding a bicycle handlebar) or on the side (like holding a beer). You could even shift with your hand palms up if you wanted to.

I'm concerned that your design would have the sharp bend in the shifter handle contacting the palm of your hand or your wrist while you are shifting aggressively. You would have to loop your hand up and over the top of the ball when shifting to first or third.

As for the "reach" problem, I'm using the "stock appearing" handle on the Steeda Tri-ax (T5) in my 67 and I don't have any problems reaching third. Even with my seat relocated 2.5" rearward. Although it is kind of pricey.
 

reenmachine

20+ Year Stangneter
Jun 27, 2004
1,258
2
38
Montrose, CA
Jun 15, 2007
#24
  • Jun 15, 2007
  • #24
Thnkas for the input -- that why I posted this here. I know what you're saying about it looking like your hand would hit, but after hundreds of miles of driving this shifter I haven't noticed anything like that. It doesn't tilt forward anywhere close to enough for you to need to give it a reach-around. Once I put the seats in this car I'll rake a pic of it from the driver's perspective in 3rd & 5th so you can see what I mean.
 
6

66Runt

Member
Jun 11, 2005
680
2
18
Jun 15, 2007
#25
  • Jun 15, 2007
  • #25
The other real advantage is the short throw of the shifter unit. Attach this lever to a Pro 5.0, and the overall movement is still about a third of what a standard 4 speed shifter would be(rough estimate based on an old somewhat uncalibrated eyeball). It's probably not much more throw than a stock T5 shifter unit with a stock lever (especially when you overshift and bend the forks )
Looks really cool, and an old school chromed version (OK chrome powder coat) would get some grins (IMO).
Now one more thought: How dificult would it be to machine a channel up the bottom thin side to hide the wire for a roll control switch? Like for installing the Hurst Ball with the built in switch... or (as an optional Reen Machine part) even making a "T" lever (similar in fashion to the '65 stock shifter reverse lockout) that would screw on below the handle?
Now that would be really sweet!
In any case, keep up the cool stuff, I just bought a new drool towel.
 
N

nmk_61802

Member
May 11, 2005
61
0
7
Jun 16, 2007
#26
  • Jun 16, 2007
  • #26
I'd probably be interested in the console version one, but in your production units, are you still planning on having "REEN" engraved in them? I'm kind of anal about that sort of thing, and that is what has kept me from buying Uniques handle that is similar.
 
C

Cobra ssc

Member
May 31, 2006
80
0
7
Austin, TX
Jun 16, 2007
#27
  • Jun 16, 2007
  • #27
Looks good, I'll be ordering a non-console version!
 

reenmachine

20+ Year Stangneter
Jun 27, 2004
1,258
2
38
Montrose, CA
Jun 18, 2007
#28
  • Jun 18, 2007
  • #28
nmk_61802 said:
I'd probably be interested in the console version one, but in your production units, are you still planning on having "REEN" engraved in them? I'm kind of anal about that sort of thing, and that is what has kept me from buying Uniques handle that is similar.
Click to expand...
Yes and no. It'll probably not have the two holes, and rather than the REEN the guy put on there when protyping it'll have the reenmachine logo ball-milled into the side.
 

iskwezm

10 Year Member
May 24, 2005
4,159
20
79
Rowland Heights,California
Jun 18, 2007
#29
  • Jun 18, 2007
  • #29
I have a question, would it be possible to make a console version with multiple mounting holes to move it down a 1/2" or so??? I have a B&M Ripper and due to a miss calculation, with the shift boot on, it will not let it stay in 2nd,or 4th becasue the length of the 1st bend is too short.

View attachment 380701
 

Rusty67

20+ Year Stangneter
Dec 3, 2002
3,749
37
109
LA, CA
Jun 18, 2007
#30
  • Jun 18, 2007
  • #30
iskwezm said:
I have a question, would it be possible to make a console version with multiple mounting holes to move it down a 1/2" or so??? I have a B&M Ripper and due to a miss calculation, with the shift boot on, it will not let it stay in 2nd,or 4th becasue the length of the 1st bend is too short.
Click to expand...

You could just drill new holes yourself could you not ?
 

iskwezm

10 Year Member
May 24, 2005
4,159
20
79
Rowland Heights,California
Jun 19, 2007
#31
  • Jun 19, 2007
  • #31
Rusty67 said:
You could just drill new holes yourself could you not ?
Click to expand...
Sure could............ but im lazy and not everybody might like the height of the shifter, so some adjustability might be another selling point
 
6

65mistress

Member
Aug 17, 2004
405
1
17
Generica USA
Jun 19, 2007
#32
  • Jun 19, 2007
  • #32
reenmachine said:
Seat-of-the-pants-wise, I love how it feels.

Here's a better pic of it installed:

Click to expand...

So what will be coming with a kit? Mounting hardware, shifter, boot? Or just Shifter?

The more that I see that brushed/anodized look, the more I'm liking it. Do you have a price range in mind?
 

reenmachine

20+ Year Stangneter
Jun 27, 2004
1,258
2
38
Montrose, CA
Jun 19, 2007
#33
  • Jun 19, 2007
  • #33
iskwezm said:
I have a question, would it be possible to make a console version with multiple mounting holes to move it down a 1/2" or so??? I have a B&M Ripper and due to a miss calculation, with the shift boot on, it will not let it stay in 2nd,or 4th becasue the length of the 1st bend is too short.
Click to expand...
I don't know if this would work. You could only move it down a very small amount before the bottom of the handle hits part of the shifter. You'd have to cut the bottom off. I guess I'd say try the tall version first, then if you want it shorter cut part off and drill new holes.
 
B

BlwnGazkit

Member
Nov 3, 2006
153
0
16
Richmond, VA
Jun 19, 2007
#34
  • Jun 19, 2007
  • #34
Could the holes be slotted to allow for that adjustability?
 

BullittStangV8

Founding Member
Oct 5, 2002
1,104
0
36
NJ
Jun 19, 2007
#35
  • Jun 19, 2007
  • #35
Does it work with a hurst 4 spd toploader set up? If yes....then i may be in for one. I have to lean fowards to hit the higher gears.
 

BullittStangV8

Founding Member
Oct 5, 2002
1,104
0
36
NJ
Jun 19, 2007
#36
  • Jun 19, 2007
  • #36
on and black anno.
 

reenmachine

20+ Year Stangneter
Jun 27, 2004
1,258
2
38
Montrose, CA
Jun 19, 2007
#37
  • Jun 19, 2007
  • #37
65mistress said:
So what will be coming with a kit? Mounting hardware, shifter, boot? Or just Shifter?

The more that I see that brushed/anodized look, the more I'm liking it. Do you have a price range in mind?
Click to expand...
The plan is just for the shifter handle itself, and I'm trying to keep it under $100.
 

reenmachine

20+ Year Stangneter
Jun 27, 2004
1,258
2
38
Montrose, CA
Jun 19, 2007
#38
  • Jun 19, 2007
  • #38
BlwnGazkit said:
Could the holes be slotted to allow for that adjustability?
Click to expand...
They're slotted a little right now, but like I said there's only so far down you can go before you hit something.
 

iskwezm

10 Year Member
May 24, 2005
4,159
20
79
Rowland Heights,California
Jun 19, 2007
#39
  • Jun 19, 2007
  • #39
reenmachine said:
I don't know if this would work. You could only move it down a very small amount before the bottom of the handle hits part of the shifter. You'd have to cut the bottom off. I guess I'd say try the tall version first, then if you want it shorter cut part off and drill new holes.
Click to expand...
Thats cool, i can modify if I need to, just figured i'd ask
 

garner67

New Member
Jun 30, 2006
68
0
0
SF Bay area
Jun 19, 2007
#40
  • Jun 19, 2007
  • #40
reenmachine said:
The pattern is somewhat up & down, just like a stock 4-speed or the original-looking 5-speed handle. It's probably 25 degrees off of the horizontal plane. You don't notice it when driving, and in fact it makes the 2-3 and 4-5 shifts easier to reach.
Click to expand...

I have a T5 with one of the repro stock looking shifter levers with a stock 67 center console. How much farther back towards the driver do you think your new shifter will place the shift knob?

By the way, I really appreciate you sharing all your ideas on this forum. ReenMachine rocks!
 
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