Making things work

[Jonsstang69]

I currently have a few things on my mustang not working, typical for a 17 year old car. The car is a 1988 Mustang GT. Heres a list of what doesn't work and some symptoms or observations:

Power mirrors: When I use the switch nothing at all happens, not even the sound of the motor trying to work, nothing.

Wipers: The wipers only work on the high setting, if I try to use the intermitant wiper feature or the low setting they wont work, only when I set the wiper switch to high.

Gauge lighting: There are dark spots, not all of them come on.

Fuel door button: It works, but I have to hit it more than once to finally get it to pop.

Power door locks: Dont work, at all, nothing.

What should I look to replace on these issues to make them work again. Maybe a list of things to check for each starting with the most common. Any help would be GREAT.

A side issue is that my hatch was at some point replaced. It doesnt sit perfect and it is very hard to get it to fully shut. I think it needs adjustment but I dont know how to do this. Also, the wiring for the hatch popper needs to be hooked up. Should I save the headache and take this issue to a body shop to fix for me?

Thanks guys

 

[jrichker]

Follow this link to fix your door lock actuator problems http://jrichker.stangnet.com/Mustang_tech/door_actuator_fix/1_of_8_door_actuator.htm

Stuck with door lock actuators that don't work and don't want to pay the $50+ for a new one? Tried the junkyard ones and found that they last six months and freeze up?

A new actuator for less than $4. Fix one side for $17, do both sides for only $23. I don't sell parts, I don’t make any money off of the upgrade, I just tell you how to do it cheaply and easily.

 

[HISSIN50]

The wiper governor might have gone south. I cant remember, but I think when it goes, high speed still works............

Fuel door button: Take a look at the contacts and/or ohm out the wire to the popper.

The switch might simply be too resistive. I have to push mine hard sometimes to get it to pop the door. There is a cable in the trunk in case your switch does not work.

If you think you had an aftermarket alarm at some point, check at the top of the driver side kick panel. The lock harnesses are there and that is where many installers tap into the wiring. If the alarm was removed and some rube chose to remove the SPDT relays or lock module, then your wires might not have been reconnected. If that checks out, JRichker's write up on the lock actuator retrofit works like a champ.

Good luck.

 

[DMAN302]

get the door lock actuators from http://www.partsexpress.com/pe/showdetl.cfm?&DID=7&Partnumber=330-010 very trust worthy company.

 

[Jonsstang69]

How do I get a new governer for the wiper switch? Is buying a new wiper switch assembly the way to fix this?

I was thinking that for the gauges I just need new bulbs

Can I get the fuel door button from 50resto for like 7 bucks to fix that?

Any ideas on the power mirrors?

 

[DMAN302]

Provided you getting voltage to the power mirrors (check with a volt meter) it's likely your going to be looking at replacing the mirrors..they run about 150 each, but the good news is they will look great on the car. Hatch adjustment is a pain you need to loosen the striker post on the body of the car with the appropriate torx bit and move the post around abit tightening it up and test closing the hatch. This can take quite a bit of time but MUCH cheaper than shop rate. The lighting on the dash is a question for me as well...I would just look to ebay for another panel..but that's just me. More often than not cleaning the contacts on components (as mentioned above) can be surprisingly effective in getting things to work.

 

[HISSIN50]

I think the wiper governor is under the dash (near the instrument cluster - JR knows all about it).

If you can jump the wires on the back of the fuel door switch and it pops easy, that (to me) suggests the switch is hanging you up and that a new switch might fix it.

Forgot about your bulbs. If it is sporatic in terms of what is burned out, it sounds like renewing some bulbs, like you have planned, should do it. The cluster is not hard to R/R.

Good luck.

 

[Darkwriter77]

Power mirrors - Pop the switch, hose it with some electronic contact cleaner, and work it around a bit. Sometimes folks spill sodas and stuff on there, and it settles into the nooks n' crannies of center console switches. Also, check all of your fuses. I thought mine was toast when I got it, and it turns out the fuse was simply missing. If all else fails ... $35 at 50resto.com

Wipers - As specified by Hissin50.

Gauge lighting - Remove the instrument cluster (a few screws under the steering column, a couple near the windshield, and about four to six Torx-bit screws for the cluster, itself) and replace each n' every one of those little 168 series bulbs in the backside that look even slightly black or old. You can go hog wild and even put in some LED replacements, which aren't cheap but light up quicker/brighter and (supposedly) last far, far longer than standard bulbs.

Fuel door button - Pop it out and try cleaning the contacts. Otherwise ... $7 from 50resto.com. Again, double-check your fuses, too.

Power door locks - Do they not work from just the driver's side switch or the passenger's side? If so, it's the switch or a connection issue. Otherwise ... as stated above, look into new/junkyard door lock actuators.

Enjoy!