Manual or power?

mustang70

Founding Member
Nov 15, 2001
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San Diego
Well, I'll be heading home in about a month and all the stuff I need to do to the Stang is starting to make it's way to the front of my brain. First off is the brake swap I'll be doing. I have a set of front disc brakes from a 75 Maverick to put on. I also have a master cylinder and brake booster from an 85 Mustang GT, which I've thought about putting in with ultrastangs website. However, I was wondering if anyone has put these brakes on without the booster. Since that would be one less think I would have to work with since the engine will be in the car. If I went without a booster, which one would I use?

Also, to use the Maverick spindles I'll have to change the tie rod ends right? I have a set of spindles from a 71 Mustang that look just like the Maverick spindles. But I won't have to change the tie rod ends or anything else. Can I just put the brake parts on these spindles?

One last thing, since I'm going to have to change the rubber lines, I was thinking of going with braided lines. Does anyone have them and if so, where did you get them?

Thanks.
 
you won't have to change the tie rods when using the mav or granada brakes on your car because the 70 stangs already have the bigger tie rod, if you had a 69 or earlier then you would have to change them. as far as power bosster goes i think the 5.0 swap is a good one but there are companies that are making conversion boosters now that you don't have to change the manual pedal or do any kind of fab work on here is a link to one i found on ebay

http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dl...4199&item=7901068290&ssPageName=STRK:MEBWA:IT

you can get the russell braided lines from summit for about 60 bucks
 
The booster out of a late model GT will not work because it is too deep and the dual resevoir master cylinder will hit the shock tower....get one out of late model 4 cylinder Mustang like 86-93...that is the one I just installed in mine. But beware this is not a drop in swap, you will have to do some mods to the pedal support and make a new pin for the pedal and relocate it plus you will need to make reinforcement plate to go between the firewall and the support. It is a fantastic swap if completed correctly but it involves fabricating. I picked up the booster in a pick-a-part for $20.
 
Ronstang said:
The booster out of a late model GT will not work because it is too deep and the dual resevoir master cylinder will hit the shock tower....get one out of late model 4 cylinder Mustang like 86-93...that is the one I just installed in mine. But beware this is not a drop in swap, you will have to do some mods to the pedal support and make a new pin for the pedal and relocate it plus you will need to make reinforcement plate to go between the firewall and the support. It is a fantastic swap if completed correctly but it involves fabricating. I picked up the booster in a pick-a-part for $20.

What about if I went with the master cylinder like the one in the pictures? I'm planning on putting in a hydraulic clutch at some point. That's why I went with the 5.0 booster. I know it's a not a drop in deal and that there would be some modification done.

http://www.ultrastang.com/Ultrainfo.asp?Page_ID=16
 
I think the 5.0 booster will work in a 67+ car (shouldn't hit the shock tower), but maybe not the 65-66 stangs. Hopefully it won't be in the way of the hydraulic clutch master cylinder. My buddy with a 69 thinks it will work because 69-70 could be ordered with power brakes and a 4 speed (something you couldn't with a 65-66 I think).

Also, wanna sell the drum spindles/brakes?

Edit: looks like the 5.0 booster will work in 65-66 cars, according to Ultrastang's page.
 
I want to go back to mustang spindles and play around with the 99+ mustang 11"/PBR brakes. I need a set of spindles to make up a bracket though (like shaggy is doing with the 13" cobra brakes). I got rid of my 65 spindles and the 70 spindles are supposed to have the same geometry. Somethin' to play around with.... (I should be making my car nicer instead).
 
I consider hydraulic clutches unreliable because they use fluid....and fluid eventually leaks. I agree that cables need to be adjusted but ow hard is it to twist a collar under the hood a few times to check once a month or so? If my cable breaks on a trip (which I have never seen...my SHO one has 215K on it) I can grab a cable at any Ford dealer of performance parts place and have it replaced in a short time with normal hand tools. I have friends with hydraulic clutches that are already leaking at 1 year of age.

If you must have one at least get one with an external slave.....but you still have a slave and master cylinder that can leak....not for me, plus they are a lot more expensive. I just put a cable clutch in mine and it cost me $0 because I had the cable laying around and made the rest of the parts.