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  • 1965 - 1973 Classic Mustangs -General/Talk-
  • Classic Mustang Specific Tech

Manual Transmission Conversion

  • Thread starter Thread starter dbdragracing
  • Start date Start date Oct 4, 2007

dbdragracing

Member
Dec 1, 2004
397
2
18
Oct 4, 2007
#1
  • Oct 4, 2007
  • #1
I have a 1970 Mach 1 that currently has a C-6 installed....it came from the factory with a 3-speed manual. While Im in the process of restoring this car, I would like to return it to a manual (probably a 4-speed toploader). Is there a link where I can get the parts list or procedure on how to do this swap? Thanks.
 

rbohm

Founding Member
Apr 12, 2002
6,698
550
204
tucson,az
Oct 4, 2007
#2
  • Oct 4, 2007
  • #2
basically you need;

flywheel
pressure plate
clutch disc
bellhousing
clutch linkage
clutch pedal
transmission
shifter
shift linkage
pilot bushing
block plate
clutch fork
throw out bearing

the NPD catalog will have everything you need to do the conversion as far as the small bits and pieces go. they even have exploded parts diagrams.
 

dbdragracing

Member
Dec 1, 2004
397
2
18
Oct 4, 2007
#3
  • Oct 4, 2007
  • #3
Thanks for the help. Looks a alot like the parts list for when I converted my '89 GT from AOD to a T-5. What about the clutch pedal....do I need a whole assembly or just the pedal? Thanks.
 
G

Gud T.B. Blown

Member
Dec 9, 2004
583
1
18
Oct 4, 2007
#4
  • Oct 4, 2007
  • #4
dbdragracing said:
Thanks for the help. Looks a alot like the parts list for when I converted my '89 GT from AOD to a T-5. What about the clutch pedal....do I need a whole assembly or just the pedal? Thanks.
Click to expand...

If you pedal assembly has the bushings for the clutch pedal then you can bolt it on.
 

rbohm

Founding Member
Apr 12, 2002
6,698
550
204
tucson,az
Oct 4, 2007
#5
  • Oct 4, 2007
  • #5
you just need the pedal. the pedal supports were all the same. i do recommend that you install a roller bearing kit in the pedal support though. it makes the clutch action easier, and you avoid the problems of the soft metal bushings wearing out fairly quickly and getting into the harder metal of the support itself.
 

dbdragracing

Member
Dec 1, 2004
397
2
18
Oct 4, 2007
#6
  • Oct 4, 2007
  • #6
Thanks for all the help. Im going to be gathering parts over the winter to do the conversion. Are the 4-speed toploaders capable of handling 5-600hp? Thanks.
 

rbohm

Founding Member
Apr 12, 2002
6,698
550
204
tucson,az
Oct 5, 2007
#7
  • Oct 5, 2007
  • #7
dbdragracing said:
Are the 4-speed toploaders capable of handling 5-600hp? Thanks.
Click to expand...

yes, pretty much all of them will.
 

dbdragracing

Member
Dec 1, 2004
397
2
18
Oct 5, 2007
#8
  • Oct 5, 2007
  • #8
Thanks for everyone's help!
 

dennis112

15 Year Member
May 15, 2005
1,561
36
79
Amish Wonderland of Central PA.
Oct 5, 2007
#9
  • Oct 5, 2007
  • #9
dbdragracing said:
Thanks for all the help. Im going to be gathering parts over the winter to do the conversion. Are the 4-speed toploaders capable of handling 5-600hp? Thanks.
Click to expand...

Just stay away from the early toploader made with a 25 spline output shaft (pre-1965) and you will be fine. Luckily these are fairly rare.

With the Cleveland, you will want to find a toploader with the small block type input shaft. It is longer than the big block input shaft. Here is a pic showing the difference:

View attachment 358525

Also, you want the later style case too. Available from mid-1965 on. It has the proper bolt pattern for you bellhousing. Basically, it has wider mounting ears and a dual bolt pattern, such as seen in this pic:

 

Attachments

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Flying Dutchman

Member
Sep 26, 2007
48
0
7
Nothern central Massachusetts
Oct 5, 2007
#10
  • Oct 5, 2007
  • #10
Give this site a try www.fordmuscle.com this should help
 

dbdragracing

Member
Dec 1, 2004
397
2
18
Oct 6, 2007
#11
  • Oct 6, 2007
  • #11
Thanks for all the help....what is the z-bar? Thanks.
 
G

gjz30075

Member
Aug 30, 2004
250
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17
Roswell, Ga
Oct 7, 2007
#12
  • Oct 7, 2007
  • #12
Z bar is also known as the equalizer bar. It's the big thing that goes between the pedal linkage and the clutch pushrod linkage. It's shaped like a big 'Z' or 'S'. It has a big tube that runs between the frame and engine block with an arm that goes to the clutch pedal linkage and an arm that goes down to the clutch pushrod.
One example:
http://www.mustangsunlimited.com/itemdy00.asp?T1=7528A+01
 
G

Gud T.B. Blown

Member
Dec 9, 2004
583
1
18
Oct 8, 2007
#13
  • Oct 8, 2007
  • #13
rbohm said:
you just need the pedal. the pedal supports were all the same. i do recommend that you install a roller bearing kit in the pedal support though. it makes the clutch action easier, and you avoid the problems of the soft metal bushings wearing out fairly quickly and getting into the harder metal of the support itself.
Click to expand...

A Centerforce clutch will also make clutch action quite a bit easier. In fact Centerforce recommends removing the clutch pedal spring when installing their clutch.
 
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