mass air problems

nyr923 · May 8, 2009

put a 73mm c&l mass air meter on about a week ago and now my car is running terrible. i have a cervini's ram-air intake. called c&l yesterday and they said the ram air was the problem so imounted the mass air meter directly to the inlet pipe, but its still running rough and bucks when driving. i was thinking about making my own inlet out of 3" exhaust pipe so i can move the mass air meter away from the filter. let me know what you think and what you would do.

j-wigg · May 8, 2009

how far away is it from the filter? just a guess but i would trying keeping about 8-10 inches away from the filter

strtrcr50 · May 9, 2009

Try clocking the c&l meter.(rotate it to different positions of the clock.)

jrichker · May 9, 2009

Cheap and dirty fix - put a piece of window screen directly in front of the MAF. The original 55 MM MAFs had one secured in place by a humongous snap ring. It's purpose supposedly was to straighten out the airflow entering the MAF. If you still have the original 55 MM MAF, use the screen from it.

billy86gt · May 9, 2009

i would throw out the c&l meter and get a pro-m.I have an 80mm meter that when i first started the motor and dyno tuned it would not give me a good air/fuel curve. I had jpc do the tunning and they are sponsored by c&l and the threw it out and put a used pro-m meter i havent had a problem since. i would send it back and by a pro-m.same price basically.

strtrcr50 · May 9, 2009

billy86gt said:
i would throw out the c&l meter and get a pro-m..

That is a better piece of advise..

2000xp8 · May 9, 2009

Throwing it may sound like a good plan, but what you should really do to be enviornmentally conscious is put it in the recyclables, since it's metal.
They really are garbage though.

nyr923 · May 9, 2009

j-wigg said:
how far away is it from the filter? just a guess but i would trying keeping about 8-10 inches away from the filter

right now its about 2 inches away from the filter, i'm going to try to move it at least 6 inches away.

strtrcr50 · May 9, 2009

Did you try clocking the meter yet? It will help.

nyr923 · May 10, 2009

strtrcr50 said:
Did you try clocking the meter yet? It will help.

not yet i just put the stock one back on for now

93gtmustang · May 10, 2009

By some chance, I talked to the president of the company when I called C&L.
He said, that the C&L MAF meters for Fox Mustangs are calibrated to work with the stock air box. They could not get any gains with a conical filter.
My car had a conical filter in the engine bay when I bought my car and it didn't run well.
I bought a stock air box with a K&N filter and it runs fine now.
The link below is what the set up should look like.
http://cnlperformance.com/images/76installed.jpg
Did you get the right calibration tube for your injectors?

MattSVTContour · May 10, 2009

93gtmustang said:
By some chance, I talked to the president of the company when I called C&L.
He said, that the C&L MAF meters for Fox Mustangs are calibrated to work with the stock air box. They could not get any gains with a conical filter.
My car had a conical filter in the engine bay when I bought my car and it didn't run well.
I bought a stock air box with a K&N filter and it runs fine now.
The link below is what the set up should look like.
http://cnlperformance.com/images/76installed.jpg
Did you get the right calibration tube for your injectors?

Ditto everything he said (including calling C&L and talking to the pres. ) I've been very happy with my C&L meter.

nyr923 · May 11, 2009

MattSVTContour said:
Ditto everything he said (including calling C&L and talking to the pres. ) I've been very happy with my C&L meter.

if i didnt already have the cervini's ram air i would just put the stock air box or my cold air back on but i want to try and keep the ram air.

jrichker · May 12, 2009

Re-read my previous post concerning the screen in front of the MAF. It will cost you less than the phone call you made to C&L to try it...

Turd Tops · May 12, 2009

I had a c&l on my old 90 with that garbage ass march ram air kit. It would run rich and and spark knock with anything less the 93 octane and in the winter it would spark knock all the time. After some playing around i used the stock air box with just the scoop for the ram air and it helped alot in the summer but it would always spark knock in the winter. A friend of mine That use to ru NMRA Factory stock class told me a little trick he used to do when he would steet race. He moved my air temp sensor off the intake and installed it on my stock air box. We also changed plugs, wires, cap and rotor and left the timing where it was. After that i never had a spark knock problem again. His thinking was now the computer can see the true air temp coming in from the air cleaner and not from the hot lower intake. I can not and will not say thats what fixed my problem but i never had a problem after that. Also i put 80,000 miles on that engine with no problems.

Here's a pic of what we did.

jeager88 · May 12, 2009

I had the same issue. i clocked mine and adjusted the way the air was entering the meter. worked fine after that. It has to do with the way the air hits the sample tube.

strtrcr50 · May 12, 2009

jeager88 said:
I had the same issue. i clocked mine and adjusted the way the air was entering the meter. worked fine after that. It has to do with the way the air hits the sample tube.

nyr923 · May 13, 2009

jeager88 said:
I had the same issue. i clocked mine and adjusted the way the air was entering the meter. worked fine after that. It has to do with the way the air hits the sample tube.

i finally got a chance to put the new mass air on and try clocking it. i turned it 90 degrees, started it up and it ran just like it did with the stock mass air if not better. thanks for all the help.

vristang · May 13, 2009

Turd Tops said:
I had a c&l on my old 90 with that garbage ass march ram air kit. It would run rich and and spark knock with anything less the 93 octane and in the winter it would spark knock all the time. After some playing around i used the stock air box with just the scoop for the ram air and it helped alot in the summer but it would always spark knock in the winter. A friend of mine That use to ru NMRA Factory stock class told me a little trick he used to do when he would steet race. He moved my air temp sensor off the intake and installed it on my stock air box. We also changed plugs, wires, cap and rotor and left the timing where it was. After that i never had a spark knock problem again. His thinking was now the computer can see the true air temp coming in from the air cleaner and not from the hot lower intake. I can not and will not say thats what fixed my problem but i never had a problem after that. Also i put 80,000 miles on that engine with no problems.

Here's a pic of what we did.

IIRC,
The ecu PULLS timing with higher ACT temps....
Lower ACT temps would have meant more timing....

Also, the stock computer is calibrated with the stock ACT location in mind.
Moving it means the stock tune is no longer as 'correct' for lack of a better word.

Not sure what fixed your problem, but I'm hesitant to think it was moving the ACT...

dcurtis · May 13, 2009

vristang said:
IIRC,
The ecu PULLS timing with higher ACT temps....
Lower ACT temps would have meant more timing....

Also, the stock computer is calibrated with the stock ACT location in mind.
Moving it means the stock tune is no longer as 'correct' for lack of a better word.

Not sure what fixed your problem, but I'm hesitant to think it was moving the ACT...

I too have read and heard that moving the act does nothing since the computer is tuned to work with in in the intake, the only, or main reason people move them is so they can install an intake that is not set up for an act sensor.

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