mass air sensor? performance
- Thread starter 1995greenstang
- Start date
blksn955.o
Founding Member
The stock maf is 100% fine until you reach its max voltage. That voltage tends to = an airflow amount of making 290-300rwhp N/A. If your honestly not at that level stop reading and spend the money someplace else. Changing a maf will probably create more issues than gains in power
The below is my .02
The best way to do a maf swap for our years if you NEED a maf is to get one that has a 30pt maftransfer (each pt is a x/y plot on the mafs flow rate at air volume and voltage). When you get this 30pt maf get it tuned for your eec via either a tune or buy a self tuner device. These mafs would be Factory mafs, SCT, and I think the new AFM meter also has one or is at least a tuneable meter.
After that if you want a more plug and play Pro-M now PMAS mafs are probably the best for our years...I think the AFM meter might also work in this case as well but I have not heard/read too much on that. I would let someone who has one/worked with one to confirm this.
C&L would bring up the rear of what mafs I would use and it is a distant 3rd to the Pro-M/PMAS maf.
Honestly, I do not think I would be looking at much else.
If you do not need a maf or if you think you may need a maf list your mods, dyno numbers, qrtr times, and any datalogs/voltage readings that suggest your at the mafs limits.
The below is my .02
The best way to do a maf swap for our years if you NEED a maf is to get one that has a 30pt maftransfer (each pt is a x/y plot on the mafs flow rate at air volume and voltage). When you get this 30pt maf get it tuned for your eec via either a tune or buy a self tuner device. These mafs would be Factory mafs, SCT, and I think the new AFM meter also has one or is at least a tuneable meter.
After that if you want a more plug and play Pro-M now PMAS mafs are probably the best for our years...I think the AFM meter might also work in this case as well but I have not heard/read too much on that. I would let someone who has one/worked with one to confirm this.
C&L would bring up the rear of what mafs I would use and it is a distant 3rd to the Pro-M/PMAS maf.
Honestly, I do not think I would be looking at much else.
If you do not need a maf or if you think you may need a maf list your mods, dyno numbers, qrtr times, and any datalogs/voltage readings that suggest your at the mafs limits.
Yobi1Kanobi
Member
- Apr 9, 2003
- 559
- 0
- 16
I agree with blksn95 on everything.....But whatever you do, under no circumstance purchase anything from IST you never know what your going to get....Horrible service..crap products...
i agree as well but on the other side, you will have a gain but not much. for example if your going to change out 19lbs to 24 lbs injectors you have to get a maf calibrated for 24s. you can always get a maf w/sampler tube. a 73mm will open up the airway a bit. my friend on his fox body changed his before putting in heads/cam and there was a significant difference and revved a bit smoother. if you could get 1 thats cheap, go for it. but if you cant just look into something else.
blksn955.o
Founding Member
Key point is FOX body. Our 94-95 stock meter is a 70mm already. Also the 94-95 eec is load based were the fox was RPM. The load is directly calc. from the maf and how accurate its transfer is...or how accurate the eec's programed transfer is for the meter used. This means that if a meter other than stock is used and its needed transfer is off so will a lot of other things like timing and A/F. Often the outcome is crappy idle, bucking, surging. Until your around 290-300rwhp there are better gains for the buck than a new mass air meter.
The aftermarket meters that are plug-in-play "cheat" or "fool" the eec by changing the actuall voltage the eec sees. You do not have to get a maf for X injector.
- Pro-M/PMAS does this by electronic means and good electronics at that. They also have a 10pt transfer that one can put together a 30pt from but it takes some time. Not perfect but better than a C&L IMHO.
- C&L uses sample tubes to fool the amount of air the meter acutally sees. This works well on fox cars but has a greater chance of drivablity issues for 94-95 cars. I know this from first hand exp.
the maf is not setup for any type of injector that is done elsewere. It measures air not fuel. Absolute best way to setup a eec for a given injector is going to be via a tune/tuning device.
Do no confuse the aftermarket "cheat" mafs with how the eec works. There are a few ways to skin the larger inj. cat....get a tune or get a "cheat" type maf that is setup to fool the eec for the given inj. This is not exact so if your picky the best route will be a tune/tuner. If you can put up with the chance of issues or put up with any issues that do pop up try the plug-in-play it is hit or miss if problems arise...you just see more issues with C&L on our 94-95's.
A lot of good info here as I see it 
Another thing to consider about meters that are calibrated (after market are
and OEM are not) to a certain size injector is ...........
The farther away you go from the OEM 19's .........
The more likely you will run into issues when trying to use that calibrated
method of falsely reporting airflow which was invented by the aftermarket
meter manufactures to allow their customers to buy and
run their meters WITHOUT a tune.
When it comes to mods and especially NA bolt on mods
Meters and Throttle Bodies are not a very good bang for the buck
performance gain mod.
Yes ... they are popular because installing them is so easy
but
Again ... lets focus on a gain of power here
The reason is simply because unless you got some good flowing heads,
intake, and the like ... the OEM meter and tb are quite capable of
dealing with the additional airflow such a combo will generate.
To give you something to consider .....
If you look at my sig combo .......
You'll see I almost made it to 300 with the oem meter and tb in place
however
You also see I was running 30's
but
We won't go there as this thread is about airflow ... not fuel
Final thought ... unless you are generating SIGNIFICANTLY more airflow
You're gonna get only a small ... most likely not any ... gain with meters
and tb's
Having said such stuff ... Consider this thought
A 19# caled meter is like a screen door on a Submarine
Grady
Another thing to consider about meters that are calibrated (after market are
and OEM are not) to a certain size injector is ...........
The farther away you go from the OEM 19's .........
The more likely you will run into issues when trying to use that calibrated
method of falsely reporting airflow which was invented by the aftermarket
meter manufactures to allow their customers to buy and
run their meters WITHOUT a tune.
When it comes to mods and especially NA bolt on mods
Meters and Throttle Bodies are not a very good bang for the buck
performance gain mod.
Yes ... they are popular because installing them is so easy
but
Again ... lets focus on a gain of power here
The reason is simply because unless you got some good flowing heads,
intake, and the like ... the OEM meter and tb are quite capable of
dealing with the additional airflow such a combo will generate.
To give you something to consider .....
If you look at my sig combo .......
You'll see I almost made it to 300 with the oem meter and tb in place
however
You also see I was running 30's
but
We won't go there as this thread is about airflow ... not fuel
Final thought ... unless you are generating SIGNIFICANTLY more airflow
You're gonna get only a small ... most likely not any ... gain with meters
and tb's
Having said such stuff ... Consider this thought
A 19# caled meter is like a screen door on a Submarine
Grady
Redsnk95
Founding Member
Abaco Performance, LLC Great meter, and you will never have to buy another one again nor have to send it off for a recalibration, it will grow with you has your power level increases.
fastgtfairlane
New Member
- Apr 7, 2006
- 266
- 0
- 0
not to say anyone is wrong with their information but i have a c&l meter on my car calibrated for 24lb injectors and the car runs good. i dont have any problems with idle or as far as i know lean conditions. ive checked my plugs plenty of times and they look light brown everytime i pull them. like was stated was hit or miss. maybe mine was a hit. im gonna put the stock meter and 19lbs back in soon and see if it runs any better.
was cureous as to if i should buy a stock one or aftermarket the stock one on now i messed it up cleaning it (my bad)
so just cureous as to if the 220 im going to spend is worth the stock 70 dollar one the engine is around 300 have not had it dynoed and will be more when i switch out the intakes
so just cureous as to if the 220 im going to spend is worth the stock 70 dollar one the engine is around 300 have not had it dynoed and will be more when i switch out the intakes
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