maverick parts for I6-V8?

my question is, can i buy a maverick...say...1971...and use all the parts to change my 66 inline 6 cylinder from 4 lugs to 5 lugs? can i use everything...the rear end and stuff? much does a maverick 1971 302 put out? just about it the same as a 1971 mustang 302?
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I don't know the answer to your initial question, but I will say that if the answer is yes...
You would be better off using a Granada/Monarch for the swap. You can get these cars with disc brakes for a decent price. If you are going to do the swap, it seems that you should spend the same effort/money on the better brakes. You can also find these models with a 9" rear that is a direct bolt-in for your car. You won't find that on a Maverick. The discs you can find on a later Maverick, but they are identical to the Granada's... :shrug:
Good luck
Originally posted by 65fstbck289
ps. having disc brakes isnt all too important for me right now
I just brought it up because they will be as easy/easier to find than Maverick parts which are getting scarce, and the amount of work would be the same. So there would be no down side at all to doing the front brake thing.
The 9" rear from these cars is about .5" wider than the Maverick rear, not enough to notice on that car. The early Stang rear would most likely be slightly wider than the Maverick rear, for sure no narrower. So the fit should be perfect. As for the spring pads and pinion location, they are exactly the same on all of the cars in question. It is a direct bolt in.
The driveshaft might be a different story. I doubt that any of them would interchange. Though I might be wrong. I wouldn't use a Mav shaft anyway. I have always disliked them, the are skinny and weak looking, like a toothpick. Getting a shaft shortened and balanced in not a big deal, nor is it expensive. Personally I would use the longer shaft from the Granada, if it didn't go in, have it shortened. That way it would be married to the rear you are using. If you do find a 9" car, it would use different joints than the 8" anyway and that would just make the swap more involved if you used an 8" shaft.
Just some things to consider.
Good luck
For a more complete parts car, find a 1974 up maverick with the engine of choice.

The Maverick is a more perfect match than that of the Granada. The Calipers are on the rear of the spindles and the rear is a bit narrower instead of wider.

The Master Cylinder will work just fine as will the distro block for the brakes.

Engine is fine. The earlier ones do not have the smog stuff, but that is easy to remove.

Prior to 1974 they were drum front and not disk.

The main problem is in the tranny. Mavericks were column shift and the Mustang was floor. The shift point on the tranny is therefore very different. You can weld on what you need to make it work or try and find the piece. I am trying the second route and, well if anyone has one, I got money......Driveshaft from the maverick will need to be used especially if you use the rear from the Maverick. It will need to be cut about 2 inches but that will only cost about $40.

Original Mustang rims will not work and you have to get brass adapters(about $1 each, I can get them to any who need them for cost plus shipping or tell you where to go and what to get...E-mail me) to mate the maverick's rubber brake lines to the Mustang's hard lines but it all will work out fine.

I saw a set of maverick spindles with new rotors, bearings,etc going for $300. For what you was getting I thought it was a good deal. Cost more to purchase it yourself...
Not trying to get too picky, but I must point out that the Maverick, Granada, and Monarch all have identical brakes... be they disc or drum. The only difference would be that 8 cyl cars have slightly heftier spindles and ever so slightly beefier rotors. Other than that, if you are comparing disc to disc, or drum to drum, they use the same components. Unlike a Stang though, all the other 3 cars use 5 lugs regardless of 6 or 8 cylinders after about 1971.
As for the rear...
The Granada/Monarch is only a half inch wider overall, with identical mounting points. Half inch wider than the Maverick rear that is... The Stang rear is identical, if not wider. The Granada/Monarchs also came with larger rear brakes than the Maverick no matter 8" or 9" rear.
Mavericks came with discs in 74-up, but power did not come along for a couple more years. The booster is very large and cumbersome, it also requires a unique driver's side tower brace that wouldn't fit the wider engine bay of the Stang. If power brakes become a part of your plans... there are instructions around the internet for making a Geo power brake booster work on shock tower type Fords. It's almost a direct bolt in and doesn't require mods to the brace or tower. It also sits straight up and down, instead of at the severe angle of the Maverick booster/master. This keeps you from having to raise the rear of the car way up to bleed the brakes.
Good luck

my boyfriend has a 71 FORD MAVERICK... he has drum brakes on it. i'm wondering how much it will cost to get disk brakes for the maverick. i would ask him but its like a birthday present. If anyone could help me out with the cost and where it would be, i would be very greatful :D
ratio411 said:
Though I might be wrong. I wouldn't use a Mav shaft anyway. I have always disliked them, the are skinny and weak looking, like a toothpick. Getting a shaft shortened and balanced in not a big deal, nor is it expensive.
Just some things to consider.
Good luck
Just for your info, Dave ( not nit-pickin here either :D ) I also had doubts about "skinny" driveshafts til I did my Ranger V8 swap. If you think a Maverick driveshaft is skinny, you should see a Ranger's shaft, it's probably smaller in diameter than just about any other vehicle's D'shaft. Anyway that puny, teany-weany Ranger D'shaft ( 2 piece at that) has so for held up to a 400 HP 302 with a 4 speed bangin on it and transferred the power to a 31 spline 8.8 traction-loc rear with 10 X 15 wheels shod with 275/60 rubber without problems. I have only once broken the center U-joint ( it's so small, the grease zerk screws into the bearing cup, not the + part) and have replaced it with a stronger non-greaseable unit. It may be small in diameter, but judging from the heft of the front shaft, it ain't got thin walls for sure. Just some food for thought here, dynamite sometimes comes in small packages. :nice: