Maximum Motorsports subframe connectors

  • Sponsors (?)


I’ve been toying with buying sub frames. The cobra has MM everything underneath but those. But I may not because they are welded.. glad to hear they worked out so well!
There’s nothing wrong with welding those tonthe bottom of your car. If it was a museum piece, probably not. Your thank your self for doing it.
 
I had a bodyman help me install these after work tonight and man o man!!! What a freaking difference! My welding skills are remedial at best so I had him help me weld them up. Car feels completely different. Feels extremely solid, and the ride is night and day. I can’t believe I never did this before on the other three mustangs I owned before this one. Going over bumps and :poo: in the road is night and day. Car launches harder and most of the little rattles are gone. I pulled the car in our frame machine and we had them welded up in about two hours. I felt a difference just backing off the frame machine. I highly recommend these things if some of you guys don’t have them installed on your cars. I didn’t take any pics of the connectors, but I thought my car looked good sitting up there on the frame machine.
D03541D8-6B79-4025-AA29-248515B5CF98.png

was searching MM subframe connectors on Google and your post came up!
I hope to be doing these soon (Hoping for a Black Friday deal)
 
  • Hell Yeah!
Reactions: 1 user
Since this topic was resurrected I'll chime in! :D

Welded them into the 84 vert that I used to have as well as installed a strut tower brace. Night and day difference, especially when you're trying to jack the car. When I bought the 87, connectors were the first things I bought. They are a must-have for verts since there's no roof to help keep body integrity. I'll get them welded in when I actually start working on that 87. Adulting sucks.... :bs:
 
Doing mine saturday. Cant wait to feel that difference. And i drive hard af (drifting) so i bet i'll feel a big difference. Will report back.

I got stifflers, but i assume any good FLSFC will do the trick.
 
So I put my MM FLSFC's on a year or two ago and it's way stiffer. I used to be able to jack up say the driver's front wheel way high and all three others are still on the ground. That's not possible now, jacking up any corner picks up the whole side, front and rear. Also when entering my driveway (decent incline but not huge) if I stop in the transition one wheel will be off the ground... WAY stiffer.
 
I had a bodyman help me install these after work tonight and man o man!!! What a freaking difference! My welding skills are remedial at best so I had him help me weld them up. Car feels completely different. Feels extremely solid, and the ride is night and day.

Remedial welding skills are more than adequate for subframe connectors. Too many people get wrapped around the wire about what the welds look like. The welds can look like total bird :poo:, and they will still be stronger than the subframes themselves. You did it it on drive on lift, and that's the most important thing. Thumbs up for that. I had to cut a set off for a friend, because someone welded them in while the car was sitting on a two post. I then bird :poo: flux-cored the same connectors back on. I do like spraying everything down with weldable primer first though.

Kurt
 
  • Like
Reactions: 1 user
It really is best to do it with the weight on the tires, but the only other semi-acceptable way would be jack stands under the rear axle and under the front lower control arms so the weight stays on the suspension... Or just pay a shop with the proper lift to install them. It's really not something you want to be done wrong as the car will be twisted in whatever shape it's in once they are welded on.
 
I was just watching the CJ video on YouTube and they installed them using a two post like mine. Picking the car up like I was thinking about doing. I might just pay a shop with a four post to do it. The last thing I need is to have to grind them off.
 
So jacks under control arms and under rear axles samething basically. Ya?

Yes, same thing. These old cars are very flexible. So long as the chassis is loaded as if it was sitting on the tires, you are good. But if you weld in subframe connectors while the car is held up from the middle, the front and the back sag, and the doors have a tendancy to rub on the rockers and pillars when you close them once you lock the chassis into that sagging position.

Kurt
 
  • Like
Reactions: 1 users
I was just watching the CJ video on YouTube and they installed them using a two post like mine. Picking the car up like I was thinking about doing. I might just pay a shop with a four post to do it. The last thing I need is to have to grind them off.

I imagine if they put put the posts as far forward and back as possible on the actual subframes, and not the pinch welds, it might be ok. But I wouldn't risk it. I would want the car loaded at the proper pressure points. I would say that a good compromise would be too put the car up on jackstands under the control arms and axle, fit and tack the subframe connectors in place, and then put the car up on a 2 post to finish the welds.

Kurt
 
  • Like
Reactions: 1 user
Doing mine saturday. Cant wait to feel that difference. And i drive hard af (drifting) so i bet i'll feel a big difference. Will report back.

I got stifflers, but i assume any good FLSFC will do the trick.

Stifflers spider brace is the shiznit !
 
Oh ya? You got em on yours, or rode in one that has em? Makes sense, looks like it connects the whole subframes laterally in a few spots. Dont even have to respond, their going on the list. Lol.
 
I remember having subframe connectors instlaled on my '86. I hadn't noticed before, but acceleration afterward felt more like the car was moving as a solid unit. Before the connectors, the flimsiness of the structure was such that you could almost feel the rear of the car begin to accelerate and a moment's hesitation before the front half of the car lurched back from the momentum. That feeling was completely gone after installing the connectors.

They don't make as much of a felt difference on the SN-95s, though.