Maybe it's my clutch, maybe it's something else...

[GrandmasterK]

I just noticed this last night a little and definatly noticed it today. Everything seems fine in 1st thru 4th gear... but in fifth, when I give it hard, the engine revs up really high at first then drops to where it should be and I start speeding up... after doing this, you can smell burnt clutch, though not really badly. So if anyone could give me a diagnosis, that'd be great... better still if you can tell me a way to fix it that doesn't involve a new clutch or transmission... I already have one vehicle out of commission because the clutch went, I'd hate to have two

If I can fix it tonight, I can take the Stang on a roadtrip I've planned tommorrow... otherwise it's gonna be cruising in the Ranger for me.

 

[ECU5.0]

well first of, it is because your clutch is slipping. secondly, do you ahve the stock quadrant assembly on there? if you do, get rid of it and get an aftermarket one like the upr triple hook and get a firewall adjuster. you need to adjust your clutch. if you dont really want t get a new one than just pull up on your clutch pedal and than push it all the way to the floor. that will adjust the cable. does it do that in any other gears, like when you floor it or whatnot?

 

[GrandmasterK]

well first of, it is because your clutch is slipping. secondly, do you ahve the stock quadrant assembly on there? if you do, get rid of it and get an aftermarket one like the upr triple hook and get a firewall adjuster. you need to adjust your clutch. if you dont really want t get a new one than just pull up on your clutch pedal and than push it all the way to the floor. that will adjust the cable. does it do that in any other gears, like when you floor it or whatnot?

As far as I know, i have the stock quadrant. I have an aftermarket clutch and don't have any receipts for anything else (the old owner kept receipts for just about everything ever done to the car). I will try that adjustment with the clutch you mentioned... I did that a few years ago, but haven't do so recently. I have to go out and pick my the girl I'm dating in a little while, so I'll do that and then let you know if it's gotten any better.

 

[GrandmasterK]

I pulled up my clutch and pushed it to the floor, but it didn't make any differance. Any other suggests?

 

[DropTopR]

Swap out the clutch and quadrant. I know you don't want too, but it only wears the clutch out faster to keep driving it that way. I just kinda accept changing clutches more than others do, thats why we have Stangs

 

[HISSIN50]

dialin the slack out of the cable (adjusting it) would only possibly exacerbate the problem (adjust the freeplay out if you are not DISengaging, not engaging). you want to be sure you dont preload the TOB, as you want to be sure you are not slipping at all.

i would tear that clutch out. check for what happened - you could have soiled the disk with contaminates, so check and fix appopriately. otherwise, weak PP, glaze, etc can all cause slippage.

for now, just be easy on it.

my two cents worth. good luck.

 

[Michael Yount]

Classic test for a slipping clutch is to put it in a tall gear (4 or 5) and up a hill ease hard into the gas. As the driveline is loaded up, if the engine revs start to climb quicker than they should - the clutch is slipping. Whether it's due to being worn out, oil in the housing due to badly leaking rear main seal, abuse, adjustment - you'll have to sort that out. But it definitely sounds like it's slipping. I'd try adjustments first as they only cost a bit of labor and see if that helps. If it doesn't - sounds like it may be clutch time. I don't have the quadrant issue on mine - but my understanding is that when it fails, slipping clutches aren't the issue so much as you're not being able to disengage the clutch with the pedal - but others will have to clarify.

 

[HISSIN50]

but my understanding is that when it fails, slipping clutches aren't the issue so much as you're not being able to disengage the clutch with the pedal - but others will have to clarify.

spot on, Michael. often times, a symptom of failure is that one cannot adjust it anymore cuz the pawl deal wont ratchet (teeth stripped). or with a HD enough clutch set up (stiff PP) or stiff pedal (clutch alignment off the pedal to firewall, etc) it will shear the stuff off.

that said, i know of a lot of people with stockers still. mine came with the steel quadrant, so ive not actually used a stocker. glad i havent.

to do it right, you should lower the column. most just cut it off, bypassing that step.

 

[Michael Yount]

Don't know what this quadrant thingy is, but by the number of posts about them, I'm glad I don't have one on mine.....or don't have problems with it.

 

[GrandmasterK]

So... still weighing my options and getting $$$ ready for this... I've looked into what's involved in changing a clutch and it's not something I can feesibly do in my garage, so I'll have to take it to a shop to be done. Is it pretty certain then that the clutch has to be replaced or could other things (leaked???) be causing the slipping and could be repaired instead. Just kinda want to guage what sort of repair work I'm looking for. The Stang is pretty slow right now (can't give much gas without slipping) and I won't be driving it again except to drive it to the shop to get fixed.

 

[Michael Yount]

It's not a complex job - but does take some time and will cost a pretty penny to have someone else do it. Exhaust has to come down, driveshaft out, drain fluid, disconnect speedo cable, neutral switch, clutch cable disconnect, drop tranny (shifter out of boot), drop the starter, remove the bell housing, remove pressure plate/disc, and flywheel. While you're there you should replace the throw out bearing and pilot bearing, check the driveshaft u-joints, and replace the rear main seal. The flywheel should be at least re-surfaced - depending on how much damage you've done driving it with it slipping it may have to be replaced. Installation is the reverse. Parts/labor - I'm guessing you'll be in the $600-$1000 range if done by a shop.

 

[v8only]

classic examples of a clutch on it's way out is slipping in just 5th gear first. I don't think it's your quadrant in this case. Save your pennies.

FYI, if you've got to mustangs with bad clutches, time to do it yourself. This IS a driveway job. Will take you one weekend. Goes as michael outlined it. If you have mechanical skills this is an easy job, just time consuming. Don't be intimidated. Save yourself a grand or so, grab a friend and do it yourself. No point imo of having a mustang if you can't work on it yourself.

also, if it's slipping in 5th, by now, your mustang likely engages nearly all the way to the top of the travel when letting off the clutch pedal.

 

[GrandmasterK]

Well, I read up on it in the Hayes manual and it wanted you to be placing engine mounts under the engine (which I don't have) and I'm not sure how to go about supporting the trany when it's out... the rest I may be able to do myself... in fact, you guys have me thinking now and we do have a spare garage I could use for a little while

I'm a little worried about the space under the car too, all I have to use are a jack and a couple jackstands, will that give me enough clearance to do all this

I've had a clutch go on my Cutlass when I was out of town and it was quoted as $550 for parts and labor, I figure a Mustang would be similar.

Assuming I go ahead on my own, what all do I need to purchase then? Is this list all I should need? Anything else that you might suggest while I've got everything torn apart? Would an alluminum driveshaft make any noticable differance?

Clutch
clutch quandrant (might as well, they look fairly cheap and could make a differance )
new starter (my old one is going, might as well replace it now)
rear main seal
throwout and pilot bearing

 

[HISSIN50]

it is probably hard for us to tell you what you need, since we dont know you and what you have.

there are little things that make the job easier - flywheel holder, etc - but they can be dismissed with some creativity and ingenuity.

the best thing to have would be a friend whom is a decent wrench (make does not matter- chevy guys can help a lot too )

that way you have a spare set of hands, eyes, tools and thoughts, should you get stumped.
dont forget a steel retainer if your alum one looks like poo.
just my thoughts. good luck.

 

[kdog_x]

Well, I read up on it in the Hayes manual and it wanted you to be placing engine mounts under the engine (which I don't have) and I'm not sure how to go about supporting the trany when it's out... the rest I may be able to do myself

all I have to use are a jack and a couple jackstands, will that give me enough clearance to do all this

Although my personal favorite is to drop the tranny on your chest and roll out on a creeper, that can get kinda messy spilling trans fluid and such. You can support the trans on one well placed jack (or two not so well placed jacks) and guide it out with the help of a friend. Have one person steady it on the jack and the other rolls it out from under the car. A bigger jack makes this much easier. As far as the engine mounts, wasn't a problem for me, the motor didn't go anywhere.

This is a job where it's much easier to get the car up as high as possible. Might not be a bad investment to go get a couple of ramps for the front and then put the rear on your jackstands. You'll need enough room to slide a tranny out. I agree with Hissin though, an experienced hand to help would be your best bet.

 

[Musclecarfan88]

My clutch is slipping, and I can almost 100% garantee it is because of my rear main seal leaking. Is the clutch done for or can it be saved? keep in mind the clutch has under 3000 miles on it. (hoping for #2 because i dont want to put much money into this drivetrain in my car now.)