This thread makes me want to throw a 150-175 shot on my car and see how deep 11s I can go (Id run a 27" tire)! There are E7 cars in the 10s with power adders!
you guys are harsh. that setup, with a good driver, non-nitrous, should go high 12s no problem. so hit that with a 200 shot and it SHOULD go mid 11s or so.
Why not put the money towards better heads instead of a turbo?
Probably cost you 1/5 the price. Then you could use your juice and run low 11's, and still of spent way less.
By the time you complete a turbo kit, it costs between $4000-$6000 dollars.
4000-6000 dollars just for the turbo kit, that doesn't even begin to describe all of the other parts you need to do it properly. Yes you can bolt on a turbo (basically) and get good gains but a turbo will cause your engine to start ticking like a time bomb if it is not built up right. IMO I would never put a turbo on a stock blocked mustang. do a h/c/i swap and spray it or save up for a supercharger.
4000-6000 dollars just for the turbo kit, that doesn't even begin to describe all of the other parts you need to do it properly. Yes you can bolt on a turbo (basically) and get good gains but a turbo will cause your engine to start ticking like a time bomb if it is not built up right. IMO I would never put a turbo on a stock blocked mustang. do a h/c/i swap and spray it or save up for a supercharger.
$4000-6000 is more than enough for a turbo kit...of which many include all fuel system upgades necissary. It should also cover the cost of a dyno tune session to get it in perfect working order.
Hmmm, you would'nt put a turbo on a stock blocked mustang, but yet would do a h/c/i swap and spray it or add a supercharger? Your not making any sence. The stock block's limits are based on h/p limits, not which type of power adder your using. If anything else a turbo would allow you to reach the magical 500 h/p limit more safetly...due to the intercooler most use.
There is also no point in building up a stock block, as the block itself is the weakest link. Adding expensive internals will do almost nothing to improve longevity unless you are already detonating...in which case you have other issues.
$4000-6000 is more than enough for a turbo kit...of which many include all fuel system upgades necissary. It should also cover the cost of a dyno tune session to get it in perfect working order.
Hmmm, you would'nt put a turbo on a stock blocked mustang, but yet would do a h/c/i swap and spray it or add a supercharger? Your not making any sence. The stock block's limits are based on h/p limits, not which type of power adder your using. If anything else a turbo would allow you to reach the magical 500 h/p limit more safetly...due to the intercooler most use.
There is also no point in building up a stock block, as the block itself is the weakest link. Adding expensive internals will do almost nothing to improve longevity unless you are already detonating...in which case you have other issues.
Well, i see alot of turbo mustangs, and some easily exceed $6000. I also see that supercharged mustangs may make a bit less power than the turbo car when they are both done right, but with the turbo's i also see more trouble getting an EFI mustang to run correctly.
Either a turbo or a supercharger on a good H/C/I mustang and the stock block is on borrowed time. Detonation will likely blow the HG, and the power will likely break the block.
As for i'm not a big Nitrous advocate, i think it puts less stress on the engine, because it's not beating on the car all the time.
I make alot of anti Nitrous posts, but mostly they are to people that want to waste a grand on nitrous parts, when they have crummy heads, that i don't see the point of.
I also agree with your statement about building up the stock block, people don't like my opinion on the FMS hypertectic 347, which i say is a great value, because they think the pistons are crap, but what's the difference, a good H/C/I setup on a stock block 347(or the slighty stroner sportsman) is going to produce so much power that you can't use a turbo or supercharger, so you are left with Nitrous as the only choice. I bought the FMS forged sportsman, not for strength, but for the fact that when budget permits the rotating assembly will be put in an R block.