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  • Fox 5.0 Mustang Tech

Misfire at high rpm...help...

  • Thread starter Thread starter my289eatsrice
  • Start date Start date Dec 25, 2006
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jrichker

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Dec 29, 2006
#21
  • Dec 29, 2006
  • #21
Code 22 MAP (vacuum) or BARO signal out of range. The MAP or BARO sensor is pretty much the same sensor for
both Mass Air & Speed Density cars. The main difference is where it is connected. Mass Air cars vent it to the a
tmosphere, while Speed Density cars connect it to the intake manifold vacuum. Its purpose is to help set a baseline
for the air/fuel mixture by sensing changes in barometric pressure. The MAP or BAP sensor puts out a 5 volt square
wave that changes frequency with variations in atmospheric pressure. The base is 154 HZ at 29.92" of mercury
- dry sunny day at sea level, about 68-72 degrees. You need an oscilloscope or frequency meter to measure it.
There is no way you can use a common cheap voltmeter or DVM to accurately measure the output signal.

The MAP/BARO sensor is mounted on the firewall behind the upper manifold.

Baro or MAP test using frequency meter - run the test key on engine off. The noise from the ignition system will
likely upset the frequency meter. I used a 10 x oscilloscope probe connected from the frequency meter to the
MAP/BAP to reduce the jitter in the meter's readout.

If it is defective, your air/fuel ratio will be off and the car’s performance & emissions will suffer

Some basic checks you can make to be sure that the sensor is getting power & ground:
Note that all resistance tests must be done with power off. Measuring resistance with a circuit powered on
will give false readings and possibly damage the meter.

Check the resistance between the black/white wire on the MAP/BARO sensor and then the black/white wire on
the EGR and the same wire on the TPS. It should be less than 1 ohm. Next check the resistance between the
black/white wire and the negative battery cable. It should be less than 1.5 ohm.

The following power on check requires you to turn the ignition switch to the Run position.
Use a DVM to check for 5 volts on the orange/white wire. If it is missing, look for +5 volts at the orange/white
wire on the TPS or EGR sensors. Use the black/white wire for the ground for the DVM.

Code 63 - Throttle Position Sensor (TPS) signal too low TPS . TPS out of adjustment, or 5 V VREF missing,
broken wiring or bad connections.

Try this... Currently there is some dispute about setting it at .99 volts being worth the effort, but anything
less is probably OK. All you need is less than 1.0 volt at idle and more than 4.25 at Wide Open Throttle (WOT).
You'll need a Digital Voltmeter (DVM) to do the job.

Wire colors & functions:
Orange/white = 5 volt VREF from the computer
Dark Green/lt green = TPS output to computer
Black/white = Signal ground from computer

Always use the Dark Green/lt green & Black/white wires to set the TPS base voltage.

Use the Orange/white & Black white wires to verify the TPS has the correct 5 volts source from the computer.

Here’s a TPS tip I got from NoGo50

When you installed the sensor make sure you place it on the peg right and then tighten it down properly. Loosen
the back screw a tiny bit so the sensor can pivot and loosen the front screw enough so you can move it just a
little in very small increments. I wouldn’t try to adjust it using marks. Set it at .97v-.99v, the closer to .99v the better.

(copied from MustangMax, Glendale AZ)

1. Always adjust the TPS and Idle with the engine at operating temp. Dive it around for a bit if you can and get it
nice and warm.

2. When you probe the leads of the TPS, do not use an engine ground, put the ground probe into the lead of the TPS.
You should be connecting both meter probes to the TPS and not one to the TPS and the other to ground.

3. Always reset the computer whenever you adjust the TPS or clean/change any sensors. I just pull the battery
lead for 10 minutes.

4. Check the procedure for your year, on my 90 I have to turn the idle screw until it just touches the tab, then
insert a .010 feeler gauge and give it about one more turn. Then you adjust the TPS voltage to .98v, reset the
computer. Start it up, if the idle is to low then turn the screw in until it is just right, then readjust the TPS voltage
to .98v and reset the computer and start it up. The key is to adjust the TPS voltage and reset the computer
whenever the idle screw is changed.

Probable cause: Vref is not present at both sensors, but it seems odd that you found Vref at the TPS.
Do some more measuring before replacing the MAP/Baro sensor.
 

Zero_chance

Founding Member
May 29, 2001
1,244
7
59
Maricopa, AZ
Dec 29, 2006
#22
  • Dec 29, 2006
  • #22
Thanks for the help jrichker, I'm gonna see if i can find my open in the signal return for my tps... also what do you mean by that I shouldn't have vreg at my tps?
Any ideas on the code 95
 
M

my289eatsrice

New Member
Nov 11, 2005
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0
Woodstock, CT
Dec 29, 2006
#23
  • Dec 29, 2006
  • #23
Sorry, posted under the wrong name...
 

jrichker

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Dec 29, 2006
#24
  • Dec 29, 2006
  • #24
Zero_chance said:
Thanks for the help jrichker, I'm gonna see if i can find my
open in the signal return for my tps... also what do you mean by that I shouldn't have vreg at my tps?
Any ideas on the code 95
Click to expand...
You should have the 5 volt Vref on the orange TPS wire. The code 63 is often the result of a missing
5 volt Vref. The fact that you had the 5 volts present on the orange wire for the TPS was somewhat strange
since you had the 63 code. I would have expected the 5 volt Vref to be missing and causing the 63 code.

Code 95 - the following test path is for 86-90 model Mustangs.

The 95 code is because at one time or another, the fuel pump relay hiccupped and didn't
provide power the pump when the computer told it to run. Sometimes this is a one time
thing, other times it is a no run or runs poorly condition.

To help troubleshoot the 95 code, follow this link for a wiring diagram
http://www.autozone.com/images/cds/gif/large/0900823d80167162.gif

Using the diagram, check the red/black wire from the fuel pump relay: you should see
12 volts or so. If not, check the inertia switch: on a hatch it is on the driver’s side by
the taillight. Look for a black rubber plug that pops out: if you don't find it, then loosen
up the plastic trim. Check for voltage on both sides of the switch. If there is voltage
on both sides, then check the Pink/black wire on the fuel pump relay: it is the power
feed to the fuel pump. No voltage there, check the Orange/Lt blue wire, it is the power
feed to the fuel pump relay & has a fuse link in it. If there is good voltage there & at the
Pink/black wire, swap the relay.

Some Mass Air conversions neglect to run the extra fuel pump wire, and they always
have a 95 code. See http://www.stangnet.com/tech/maf/massairconversion.html
for more information on the Mass Air wiring conversion.
 
M

my289eatsrice

New Member
Nov 11, 2005
121
0
0
Woodstock, CT
Dec 29, 2006
#25
  • Dec 29, 2006
  • #25
thanks, a project for the morning...
 
M

my289eatsrice

New Member
Nov 11, 2005
121
0
0
Woodstock, CT
Jun 25, 2007
#26
  • Jun 25, 2007
  • #26
really old update, ended up being the fuel pump...
 

Zero_chance

Founding Member
May 29, 2001
1,244
7
59
Maricopa, AZ
Jun 25, 2007
#27
  • Jun 25, 2007
  • #27
hey tom you posted that question on my account. hey if i give you the cash one of these days, could you pick me up an autometer phantom water temp gauge and a gauge pod? its a long drive to mustangs unlimited.
 
M

my289eatsrice

New Member
Nov 11, 2005
121
0
0
Woodstock, CT
Jun 25, 2007
#28
  • Jun 25, 2007
  • #28
Ya probably, you want the dual gauge pod like where the clock is? you still got that v-6 blower kit, cuz my buddy wants to buy it...
 

loco862

New Member
Sep 15, 2007
3
0
0
Sep 15, 2007
#29
  • Sep 15, 2007
  • #29
my289eatsrice said:
Ok, so I've got a high RPM miss w/ my 89 hatch. It's an 89 hatch, 306, blah blah. It seems like when it's cold it misses quite a bit, but when it's warmed up it still misses, but less. 99 percent of the misses are at highter rpm ie 3k and up, but its not consistant. I've gone over alot of stuff, and don't really know where to go now. Plugs, wires, cap, rotor, PCV valve/filter, coil, all new... It' does have 10 year old O2's in it, and original TFI module, but I'm sick of shooting in the dark. Any ideas? Thanks...
Click to expand...
have you checked the module under rotor button in distributor?
double check plug wires check them at night to see if fire is jumping,sounds crazy but it works blue sparks,maybe craked plug,or distributor cap,or vacume leak,Too many options to list,but those are some basics
 
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