Need major help cant figure it out. My 5.0 is missing real bad and I have done the beginning prospects of figuring it out but dont really know much else to do. I have checked the timing which sits at 15 degrees and have replaced all spark plugs that were previously fouled out and gapped them accordingly. The car still misses bad and I dont know why. I have heads cam intake with 30 lb injectors and cal. mass air. I also have bbk shorties and the weird thing with them is 3 of the pipes have not changed in color like the other ones have. The cylinders are 2-4 all right in a row and dont know why the exhaust in that spot is too cold. Any ideas how to fix this or things to check?
Missing bad please help
- Thread starter stangandy
- Start date
ECU5.0
Banned
let the car run for a little bit and drip water on those headers to see if they are actually heating up or not. you should check your injectors to see if they are firing....and change your fuel filter. jrichker will probably post a lot of things you need to check and specifics...so jsut sit tight and bump the thread if you need to
15 degrees with the "spout jumper" removed? How long have you been using the 30# injectors? What cam & heads? 30's needs alot of air. I would check the compression on the engine. Learning to use a vacuum guage will also help you to know if you have a blown head gasket. How do the sprk plugs look and what gap?
Well I am running f303 with 1.7 rockers. Have no idea what the spout jumper is?? I havent had 30 # injectors in there very long bought them used but the guy said that they only had 5000 miles on them, didnt look like it but I believe they did. ALso the chance of putting 3 of 8 bad ones in a row are very unlikely. I do not have a blown head gasket either. I have spark plugs that are 1 temp hotter than stock at 26, and they are brand new just been gapped at .054.
ECU5.0
Banned
could be bad connectors on the fuel injector harness. the spout on the distributor comes off of the tfi module on the side...its a little grey plug with two wires coming off of it
Cylinder balance test:
Warm the car's engine up to normal operating temperature. Use a jumper wire or paper clip to put the computer into test mode. Start the engine and let it go through the normal diagnostic tests, then quickly press the throttle to the floor. The engine RPM should exceed 2500 RPM's for a brief second. The engine RPM's will increase to about 1450-1600 RPM and hold steady. The engine will shut off power to each injector, one at a time. When it has sequenced through all 8 injectors, it will flash 99 for everything OK, or the number of the failing cylinder such as 22 for cylinder #2. Quickly pressing the throttle again up to 2500 RPM’s will cause the test to re-run with smaller qualifying figures. Do it a third time, and if the same cylinder shows up, the cylinder is weak and isn’t putting out power like it should. See the Chilton’s Shop manual for the complete test procedure
Here's the link to dump the computer codes with only a jumper wire or paper clip and the check engine light, or test light or voltmeter. I’ve used it for years, and it works great.
See http://www.troublecodes.net/Ford/
OR
See http://www.dalidesign.com/hbook/eectest.html for more descriptive help
OR
See http://www.mustangworks.com/articles/electronics/eec-iv_codes.html
Be prepared to replace the cap, rotor & either ohm outthe spark plug wires or replace them.
To Ohm out the wires, set your multimeter on 20K Ohm range and check the wire's resistance. It should be about 2K (2000) ohms per foot of lenght. A 2 1/2 foot wire should read about 5K Ohms +/- 20%. A lower value is good too, some wires have a different construction so that the resistance is lower but still doesn't interfere with the radio or computer.
Warm the car's engine up to normal operating temperature. Use a jumper wire or paper clip to put the computer into test mode. Start the engine and let it go through the normal diagnostic tests, then quickly press the throttle to the floor. The engine RPM should exceed 2500 RPM's for a brief second. The engine RPM's will increase to about 1450-1600 RPM and hold steady. The engine will shut off power to each injector, one at a time. When it has sequenced through all 8 injectors, it will flash 99 for everything OK, or the number of the failing cylinder such as 22 for cylinder #2. Quickly pressing the throttle again up to 2500 RPM’s will cause the test to re-run with smaller qualifying figures. Do it a third time, and if the same cylinder shows up, the cylinder is weak and isn’t putting out power like it should. See the Chilton’s Shop manual for the complete test procedure
Here's the link to dump the computer codes with only a jumper wire or paper clip and the check engine light, or test light or voltmeter. I’ve used it for years, and it works great.
See http://www.troublecodes.net/Ford/
OR
See http://www.dalidesign.com/hbook/eectest.html for more descriptive help
OR
See http://www.mustangworks.com/articles/electronics/eec-iv_codes.html
Be prepared to replace the cap, rotor & either ohm outthe spark plug wires or replace them.
To Ohm out the wires, set your multimeter on 20K Ohm range and check the wire's resistance. It should be about 2K (2000) ohms per foot of lenght. A 2 1/2 foot wire should read about 5K Ohms +/- 20%. A lower value is good too, some wires have a different construction so that the resistance is lower but still doesn't interfere with the radio or computer.
You didn't mention it, so i will. The FIRST thing that I would check on a car that has your symptoms would be the plug wires and the cap/rotor....start with the simple/easy things first. Plug wires can look fine externally, but be completely broken down internally.....especially if they're old/original.
Let us know what you find out.
Let us know what you find out.
Ahhh. That is an important piece of the puzzle. I'm assuming you installed the heads/cam/inake/headers while the car was apart? Something has obviously changed since you installed the new parts. If the wires/cap/rotor check out ok, make sure you ARE getting spark at the cylinders that don't seem to be firing. The cylinder balance test mentioned earlier would be a good way to check this. You also NEED to run the codes to see if the computer is picking up the problem.
Another thing to try would be to "reclock" the MAF meter. Aftermarket MAF meters can be finicky sometimes.
Also, start looking for vacuum leaks around the cylinders that aren't firing (head-intake gaskets etc.). Also make sure the header bolts are all tight.
well I have replaced the cap and rotor and with no avail. The cylindars are firing because they do heat up the headers to burn water. Also did an ether test and didnt really see anything out of the ordinary. I havent run a balance test yet but not sure how to without a computer or where to put the paper clip in order to get the comp into test mode. I think I might bring it to a mechanics shop since I dont really have the knowledge to be doing this stuff 
Any last ideas guys? I did buy used injectors maybe they are bad??? But the cylinders are firing :?
Any last ideas guys? I did buy used injectors maybe they are bad??? But the cylinders are firing :?You should really do a search on how to check codes. It can be done in about 2 minutes with a paperclip. This has been covered numerous times before.
http://www.corral.net/tech/maintenance/eecivtest.html
http://www.corral.net/tech/maintenance/eecivtest.html
good advice from Silver. the balance test is kinda neat - it checks the injectors, and if it finds something it does not like, it retests under different criteria. i think it can do a total of 3 tests for them.
worst case (or if you dont want to do the paperclip jump method), get a 20-30 dollar code reader. some of the best money you can spend. the book with it outlines all the tests.
my two cents. good luck.
worst case (or if you dont want to do the paperclip jump method), get a 20-30 dollar code reader. some of the best money you can spend. the book with it outlines all the tests.
my two cents. good luck.
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