Mod (to do) List

dallas2002GT · Jan 27, 2006

My goals: Safe 550-650rwhp Street/Strip car. I want to build a bad ass car and do it right the first time in the order it should be done.
This is my ouline that I have came up with, in the order I think I want it done. Let me know If you have better ideas or better parts or if I am missing anything

First Round:
-17x10.5 Anthracite Bullitt Wheels: COMPLETED

-315/35/17 Nitto 555 D/R: COMPLETED

-17x8 Anthracite Bullitt Wheels: COMPLETED

-245/35/17 Nitto 555 Extreme: COMPLETED

-Steeda Tri-Ax Short Throw Shifter: $161.95 @ steeda.com

-Accufab 75mm T/B & Plenum: $429.99 @ http://www.mustangtuning.com/ac42v75thbop.html

Second Round:
-11" McLeod DF Clutch: Still looking around for price. Any ideas?

-Spec Aluminum Flywheel $332.95 @
http://www.stangsuspension.com/store/comersus_viewitem.asp?idproduct=728

-FRPP Aluminum Driveshaft: $249.95 @ http://www.partshopper.com/shop/Mustang-Driveshafts-41.html

-Drive Shaft Loop: $35.00 @ http://www.gefracing.com/Merchant2/...=G&Product_Code=M5478C2&Category_Code=46TRANS

-BBK Ceramic L/T Heades: $489.95 @ http://www.rpmoutlet.com/musv8macpro.htm

-BBK X Pipe w/ Cats: $319.95 @ http://www.partshopper.com/shop/BBK-Performance-X-Pipes-for-4.6L-w-LTs-m307.html

-Magnaflow Magnapacks: $396.65 @ http://www.partshopper.com/shop/Magnaflow-Pack-Mustang-V8-Exhaust-m8.html

Third Round:
-FRPP 4.10 Gears: $180.00 @ http://www.gefracing.com/Merchant2/...&Product_Code=M4209G410M&Category_Code=46REAR

-Moser 31 Spline Axle: $239.99 @ http://lonestarperformance.com/shop/customer/product.php?productid=261&cat=35&page=1

-Eaton Differential: $439.88 @ http://store.summitracing.com/partd...115+400133+4294908331+4294901314&autoview=sku

-Steeda Subframe Connectors: $139.95 @ http://www.steeda.com/products/full_length_subframe_connectors.php

-Steeda Upper Rear Control Arms: (aluminum) $229.95 @ http://www.steeda.com/store/-catalog/aluupperrearcarms.htm

-Steeda Lower Rear Control Arms: (aluminum) $295.00 @ http://www.steeda.com/store/-catalog/alulowerrearcarms.htm

-Tokico Shocks and Struts: $316.50 @ http://www.stangsuspension.com/store/comersus_viewitem.asp?idproduct=938

-Eiback Pro Kit: $224.95 @ http://www.stangsuspension.com/store/comersus_viewitem.asp?idproduct=472

Forth Round:
-Procharger D-1sc w/ 3 core Sheetmetal Cooler: $4,359.99 @ HPP Racing

-Aviater Fuel Pump: $219.99 @ HPP Racing

-60lb Fuel Injectors: $459.99 @ HPP Racing

-Mafia: $154.99 @ HPP Racing

-Autometer C-2 Electric Fuel Pressure gauge: $194.95 @ rpmoutlet.com

-Autometer C-2 Electric Boost Gauge: $194.95 @ rpmoutlet.com

-Raptor Shift Light: $110.00 @ HPP Racing

-3 Piller Pod: Havent looked yet

Fifth Round:

-Engine Built to handle full boost and (maybe a nx kit): I haven't even begun to start research on this. Any help would be appreciated.

*I am open for any suggestions

sgarlic · Jan 27, 2006

My advice: Ditch the Tri-Ax and get an MGW instead.

I also (just me personally) would do the built engine first.. mainly because I'd hate to spend 12 or whatever hours installing the supercharger, then taking it back off and trying to not lose/damage parts in the process, then swap it all back to the new engine, etc, etc.

Just my .02 .. its refreshing to see people with attainable goals in mind.

dallas2002GT · Jan 27, 2006

sgarlic said:
My advice: Ditch the Tri-Ax and get an MGW instead.

I also (just me personally) would do the built engine first.. mainly because I'd hate to spend 12 or whatever hours installing the supercharger, then taking it back off and trying to not lose/damage parts in the process, then swap it all back to the new engine, etc, etc.

Just my .02 .. its refreshing to see people with attainable goals in mind.

I thought the same exact thing on the engine but to be honest, I have no clue what is needed to build an engine that can handle full boost from the procharger and a possible squirt of nx. If I can obtain the rwhp I want with just the procharger I would stay away from the nx. The nx kit would be the last resort.

sgarlic · Jan 27, 2006

I'm no engine builder, but a set of forged pistons and rods, maybe some Manley H beams, along with a cobra crank & perhaps new oil pump gears should keep you safe up to well above what you're looking to go to.. tune is probably the most important part of keeping either engine together. The guys over at Modular Power House could help you out advising on what specific components you would probably need.

I was recently quoted "No less than $6k for a forged rebuild," from MPH, and that was to simply swap out the factory internals for forged parts.. so plan on more if you have other intentions.

cvgtpony03 · Jan 27, 2006

Dude that is some list. You are going to make a lot of vendors happy. You're doing your homework. Fun aint it. I am not far enough to tell you anything about the SC or engine parts. That comes this spring. You might want to consider a master rebuild kit for the rearend when you do that part (if you are trying to include every little piece/part in your list) and also a new rearend cover, heavy duty. Optional, just thought I would throw those in.

Sub Frame connectors with that much power.

And a get out of jail free card with all that speed.

I do not have one but everyone is ranting and raving about the MGW shifter. Night want to check that out. I have the UPR with adjustable handle and am happy with it.

RedDaemon · Jan 28, 2006

thats a craaaaaap load of money, great list tho, i wish i had that much money to burn

might i also suggest the MGW

03 Black GT · Jan 28, 2006

I'd check out here: http://www.maximummotorsports.com/giab.asp for suspension packages if you are totally upgrading everything as you said. You get great products all together and also I think you may save some money rather than buying it all separately.

03ghoststang · Jan 28, 2006

like mentioned before get the mgw shifter.....as far as block goes you can get a forged 302 form mph or just have your block's bottom end forged, but it would be a good idea to do this before adding the S/C.

98blackmagic · Jan 28, 2006

If you want to go fast you have to have the cash, the list of parts here is a very good example of the money it cost to have that kind of power. You have a well laid out plan, follow it and you should get what your after.

DocG · Jan 28, 2006

Get those magnapacks in round 1 and that TB/Plenum in round 2. IMO...you'll enjoy the sound of the packs more than the improvement of the induction mods.

FalconGuy016 · Jan 28, 2006

tomustang · Jan 28, 2006

ditch the steeda crap

dallas2002GT · Jan 28, 2006

tomustang said:
ditch the steeda crap

Ditch for what brand?

03ghoststang · Jan 28, 2006

dallas2002GT said:
Ditch for what brand?

for some MM-maximum motorsports stuff

01Steeda · Jan 28, 2006

I would do the engine build first also and include the headers at that time. no sense in jacking the engine up for a seperate install when youll have it out anyway. I love my Steeda, but yes there stuff is way overproced.

tomustang · Jan 28, 2006

03ghoststang said:
for some MM-maximum motorsports stuff

View attachment 489499

TweekedGT · Jan 28, 2006

You will never get the HP you are looking for with that fuel system. You will have to go after market for an entire new fuel system. Dual pumps, new tank or modified tank. Your ECU won't like those 60# injectors either. You will be paying serious cash for a tune as well. just so you have an idea what your looking at. Honestly, htere is no such thing as a safe 550-650rwhp. You will be breaking crap all over the place. Be more conservative and look 400-500. I'm going done this road right now and have most of the crap you are talking about and it is not as easy as it sounds. A lot of things do not go well together and it takes time and cash to work the bugs out. I have a forged 306 with a KB 1.7 to install and I am still amassing parts. You are missing the billet oil pump gears which are a neccessity are the power you are looking for. You will need cams and better flowing heads as well. It is a lot of work and cash. trust me.

tomustang · Jan 28, 2006

TweekedGT said:
You are missing the billet oil pump gears which are a neccessity are the power you are looking for.

better order them now i heard there on a 1 year waiting list

TweekedGT · Jan 28, 2006

tomustang said:
better order them now i heard there on a 1 year waiting list

VT has been backordered for a while but you can get them from Sean Hyland Motorsports or Modular Mustang Racing. Whichever floats your boat.

stimmler · Jan 28, 2006

The intake elbow and TB should be later on your list after headers and exhaust. Probably throw in an SCT tune at that point too, you will just have to pay again for dyno time but use the same chip. Might be happier with doing the gears in round 1 also.

dallas2002GT said:
My goals: Safe 550-650rwhp Street/Strip car. I want to build a bad ass car and do it right the first time in the order it should be done.
First Round:
[on this. Any help would be appreciated.

*I am open for any suggestions

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