Engine 95 Gt 5.0ho Build-up

psychorugby

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Sep 28, 2011
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your step 1 with a 351 is very different if you are going 351 route.
You can grab a set of used pulleys.
You should go ahead and take care of the rear end and gears.
Your catback of choice.

what is the time frame for building the 351? If 6 months, only buy the parts for the 351. If 2 years, you might go ahead and put on aluminum HCI now that would be suited for the 351s flow capabilities.

You can buy trick flow heads for around 1000 (see them for as low as 750 used) and toss a systemax II and a Cam on there maybe Once you get everything squared around, you can also have your 351 rebuilt with the trick flow forged pistons down the road.

Time frame is probably one to two years. I will be building the 351 "in the background" while doing the suspension, rear end, paint, wheels, brakes, exhaust, etc. I could probably take the GT-40 heads (and intake if it has one) off this 351 and install on the 302 with a cam in the mean time. Are there other 302 upgrades that are suitable for the 351 as well?
 
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95snoozer

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thats just a waste of time and money in the mean time. the 351 intake lower will not work on your 302 and the gt40 intake is too mild for any type of real build.

You can sell the lower on ebay and use the upper in the mean time but you would have to find a 302 lower... then sell it as a complete gt40 setup to a 302 guy when your 351 is done.

I would just start selling all of your gt40 and gt40P parts and use that to fund good heads for the 351. AFR 185s or trick flows. You have your work cut out for you on the car in regards to the rear end and suspension. Some 3.73s will work nicely with your 302 for now and that 351 when you are done. You will have 600+ in the rear alone.

You really cant go wrong doing all trick flow on the top end if you want(trick flow heads and trick flow R intake for 75mm tb. I would just not use their cams.


As far as parts go, you will need 351 LTs which do not work with the 302. The rest of the parts that you really need for the 351 either will be of No HP benefit to your 302, or they arent even compatible and cannot be run.

a year and a half will fly by. focus on your 351.
 

psychorugby

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thats just a waste of time and money in the mean time. the 351 intake lower will not work on your 302 and the gt40 intake is too mild for any type of real build.

You can sell the lower on ebay and use the upper in the mean time but you would have to find a 302 lower... then sell it as a complete gt40 setup to a 302 guy when your 351 is done.

I would just start selling all of your gt40 and gt40P parts and use that to fund good heads for the 351. AFR 185s or trick flows. You have your work cut out for you on the car in regards to the rear end and suspension. Some 3.73s will work nicely with your 302 for now and that 351 when you are done. You will have 600+ in the rear alone.

You really cant go wrong doing all trick flow on the top end if you want(trick flow heads and trick flow R intake for 75mm tb. I would just not use their cams.


As far as parts go, you will need 351 LTs which do not work with the 302. The rest of the parts that you really need for the 351 either will be of No HP benefit to your 302, or they arent even compatible and cannot be run.

a year and a half will fly by. focus on your 351.

Time to really focus on the 351... just got it for $300. I'll get to look at it tomorrow, but based on what the guy told me, it sounds like it only needs a new set of bearings. It does not have the intakes, so I can't use or sell those off, but I can sell off the heads.

Now I need to formulate a plan to get this thing ready to rumble.
 

95snoozer

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start watching the forums and looking at summit and various websites.

MAC is a good source for 351 LTs and midpipe if you cannot find any used.
Mac Performance - performance accessories for cars, trucks, and motorcycles
their raw headers will be fine.

Heads:
Trick flow heads
Trick Flow® Twisted Wedge® 170 Cylinder Heads for Small Block Ford - SummitRacing.com
AFR 185s
http://www.strokerengine.com/FordAFRHeads.html

Intakes:
easiest and most well balanced will be these two:
Edelbrock RPM II for 351
might see if this guy is still selling his.
For Sale For Sale – Edelbrock Performer RPM II EFI 351W intake - Ford Mustang Forums : Corral.net Mustang Forum
Trick flow R with 75mm TB for the non crazy 351 build. 90mm version if you go 393 stroker.

for a cam you can call up Comp cams, [email protected] Anderson ford motorsport, Ed curtis, buddy rawls
Expect to pay 279-350 for a cam from any of them plus whatever they recommend in the way of upgraded valve springs. This will be your best money spent.

these are moderate build reccomendation and will probably land you in the neighborhood of a Very reliable 400 rwhp give or take a bit. Getting that car ready to handle twice the Rwhp it originally came with is a great distractor in the mean time.

If your aspirations get bigger throughout the build, you may want to go with ported or CNC version of the twisted wedges, but it seems like these recommendations are right in line with what you said you would plan on spending.

you can pick up your odds and ends by scouring the classified and ebay for things like TBs, Injectors, MAFs, etc etc.
 

BlackVert

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so psycho, what are your thoughts on what your "phases" are going to be?

if i were doing it, given that the bottom needs to be rebuilt, i would probably do something like this:

NB: my plan would leave it as a 351 for the final diplacement

- phase 1:
--- take it apart and send the block to the shop for cleaning and machine work
--- rebuild the bottom end with about 9:1 compression (for low octane gas now and boost later)
--- since i would not be going for killer power, i'd use the stock crank, but upgrade the rods and pistons.
--- get the final cam (one that would be good for both NA and a blower)
--- get the final upper and lower intakes
--- use the stock heads, unless:
-------- if finances are great (or a steal on good heads comes up), jump on the heads
--- get that version of the engine in the car and on the road

phase 2 would be to upgrade the heads if necessary and install a supercharger

but that is just me ...
 

psychorugby

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so psycho, what are your thoughts on what your "phases" are going to be?

if i were doing it, given that the bottom needs to be rebuilt, i would probably do something like this:

NB: my plan would leave it as a 351 for the final diplacement

- phase 1:
--- take it apart and send the block to the shop for cleaning and machine work
--- rebuild the bottom end with about 9:1 compression (for low octane gas now and boost later)
--- since i would not be going for killer power, i'd use the stock crank, but upgrade the rods and pistons.
--- get the final cam (one that would be good for both NA and a blower)
--- get the final upper and lower intakes
--- use the stock heads, unless:
-------- if finances are great (or a steal on good heads comes up), jump on the heads
--- get that version of the engine in the car and on the road

phase 2 would be to upgrade the heads if necessary and install a supercharger

but that is just me ...

That is pretty close to what I was anticipating, but I was thrown a curveball this morning when I got an email that read, "don't bother driving up here. I sold the motor last night." Now I am on a quest. I found a built 351 with intakes and headers for $1,500, but when I got to thinking about it... that took all the fun out of it for me. I really want to build my own motor, and I definitely want it to be a 351.

My phasing would be very similar to yours Black Vert, but I think I might consider stroking it before adding the blower. I don't want insane power; just the cool factor haha.

1. Stock heads, new cam and intakes for final build
2. Heads
3. Stroker kit (realizing that taking the motor out twice is a pain, but this could be years down the road)
4. Blower (what kind I have no idea)

Now I am off to scour Craigslist and eBay.
 

psychorugby

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Sep 28, 2011
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start watching the forums and looking at summit and various websites.

MAC is a good source for 351 LTs and midpipe if you cannot find any used.
Mac Performance - performance accessories for cars, trucks, and motorcycles
their raw headers will be fine.

Heads:
Trick flow heads
Trick Flow® Twisted Wedge® 170 Cylinder Heads for Small Block Ford - SummitRacing.com
AFR 185s
http://www.strokerengine.com/FordAFRHeads.html

Intakes:
easiest and most well balanced will be these two:
Edelbrock RPM II for 351
might see if this guy is still selling his.
For Sale For Sale – Edelbrock Performer RPM II EFI 351W intake - Ford Mustang Forums : Corral.net Mustang Forum
Trick flow R with 75mm TB for the non crazy 351 build. 90mm version if you go 393 stroker.

for a cam you can call up Comp cams, [email protected] Anderson ford motorsport, Ed curtis, buddy rawls
Expect to pay 279-350 for a cam from any of them plus whatever they recommend in the way of upgraded valve springs. This will be your best money spent.

these are moderate build reccomendation and will probably land you in the neighborhood of a Very reliable 400 rwhp give or take a bit. Getting that car ready to handle twice the Rwhp it originally came with is a great distractor in the mean time.

If your aspirations get bigger throughout the build, you may want to go with ported or CNC version of the twisted wedges, but it seems like these recommendations are right in line with what you said you would plan on spending.

you can pick up your odds and ends by scouring the classified and ebay for things like TBs, Injectors, MAFs, etc etc.

These are GREAT recommendations and right in line with what I want to do now. Thank you Snoozer. I am leaving the 302 as is and getting the rest of the car where I want it while collecting parts when I see them at deals and building the motor in the background.

You all have been a great help in taming and focusing this project. Now I just need to get it off paper and into the car.
 

psychorugby

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Well I finally got the green light from my wife to start the rebuild/restoration! It looks like the first order of business will be a new paint job this summer. Per another thread I started, I will be sticking with the stock Rio Red... and after much thought, will be sticking with all stock body parts except for the spoiler if I can find an S351 spoiler. I'll worry about the hood when I get a 351 built. I'll also be installing a 4 point roll bar while the interior is stripped out for paint (finally got my wife to agree to see the light).

The plan is to do the suspension first - buying parts over the next few months and installing when I can. The parts I think I have decided on after going back and forth numerous times are:
  • Bilstein HD Series shocks and struts
  • H&R Super Sport springs
  • UPR 4-bolt caster/camber kit
  • UPR chromoly adjustable upper & lower control arms
  • Steeda X2 ball joints
  • UPR spherical bushings (Do I need 2 or 4? Do I need at all?)
  • UPR Extreme bumpsteer kit (need?)
  • Eibach sway bars (still debating the need for these)
  • UPR full length sub-frame connectors
  • UPR torque box kit
My wife wants it to look good so she can ride in it, so after the paint and suspension comes wheels and tires:
  • 18x9 polished Saleen S style wheels
  • 18x10.5 polished Saleen S style wheels
  • Continental Extreme Contact DW 265/35/18
  • Continental Extreme Contact DW 295/35/18
  • Leather restoration
  • Rear seat delete (making my own)
After that I am still trying to make up my mind on exhaust. I am still leaning toward a Bassani X pipe and Magnaflow catback. However, it was brought to my attention that a friend's dad does exhaust work, so I am considering Borla turbo mufflers instead. I want long tube headers when I put the 351 in, so I don't know what X-pipe I should really get.

I'll be converting to Cobra brakes, getting 3.73 gears and a new shifter, as well as replacing old worn out interior parts as necessary.

Any more thoughts or suggestions? I am still wide open!
 

Venom351R

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After that I am still trying to make up my mind on exhaust. I am still leaning toward a Bassani X pipe and Magnaflow catback. However, it was brought to my attention that a friend's dad does exhaust work, so I am considering Borla turbo mufflers instead. I want long tube headers when I put the 351 in, so I don't know what X-pipe I should really get.

I'll be converting to Cobra brakes, getting 3.73 gears and a new shifter, as well as replacing old worn out interior parts as necessary.

Any more thoughts or suggestions? I am still wide open!

Read my thread on long tube headers and you might reconsider lol. J/k though b/c you can get a set of BBK or MAC 351 swap headers that are pretty hassle free as far as the fitment. The actual install of long tube headers is a whole other story as I am finding out myself lol. I had a bassani X pipe before and it was awesome I really liked it. Those and the magnapacks I had on it made it sound so mean. I am going with borla this time around though. The Pro XS Mufflers appear to be quite nice.
 

psychorugby

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Read my thread on long tube headers and you might reconsider lol. J/k though b/c you can get a set of BBK or MAC 351 swap headers that are pretty hassle free as far as the fitment. The actual install of long tube headers is a whole other story as I am finding out myself lol. I had a bassani X pipe before and it was awesome I really liked it. Those and the magnapacks I had on it made it sound so mean. I am going with borla this time around though. The Pro XS Mufflers appear to be quite nice.

What is the difference between the Turbos and the Pro XS mufflers? This is a weekend car, so I have no problem with it being loud. I want that throaty 5.0 sound that is recognizable from blocks away.
 

Venom351R

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Honestly I'm not sure I have never run Borla Mufflers before. Its hard to tell the difference in sound clips on youtube b/c either its a different engine, different mid pipe, long or short tubes. Meaning there is so many different combination of parts that its hard to find exactly what you would have and how it would sound with Pro XS or Turbo mufflers. Having a different mid pipe or a 4.6 engine VS a 5.0 will drastically change how the end result of the sound is.
 

psychorugby

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I think you will be extremely happy with the stance of H&R super sports (not sport or race) and bilsteins, remove spring isolaters if you want the lowest drop.

These are all ordered. I can't wait to get them installed! I'll end up doing the rest of the suspension (c/c plates, rear control arms, ball joints) in a second stage, this will give me a good idea what the car will look like before she goes to paint.
 

psychorugby

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I'm looking to place the order for the rest of the suspension soon and want to make sure I have thought of everything. I managed to leave new bushings off my list so I am looking at those now. Should I got rubber or urethane when I replace them? I know urethane can be really noisy, but lasts a lot longer. Is there any reason to get adjustable upper and lower rear control arms if I have no plans to race the car? Is there a downside to not running spring isolators? I have seen arguments for both sides on this topic. I assume new rear control arms would come with new bushing so I would not need to buy these.
 

psychorugby

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Now that she is running, and the final suspension pieces will be here next week... It's almost install time! I just have to sandblast and paint the front control arms and I will be ready to go.

Final suspension is:
  • H&R Super Sport springs
  • Bilstein HD shocks and struts
  • UPR 4-bolt caster/camber plates
  • UPR Pro Series chromoly adjustable rear upper and lower control arms
  • '03 Cobra front control arms
  • MOOG ball joints
  • MOOG inner and outer tie rod ends
  • Steeda bumpsteer kit
  • Prothane poly bushings
Next system purchase will be the braking system. I already have Cobra PBR front calipers that are awaiting sandblasting and painting.
 

Dirt bike kid

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This is the first time posting here. I’ve been researching using the forums for a long time, so I hope I don’t ask something that has been asked a million times before.

I own a 95 Rio Red GT (HO) convertible with about 135k miles on it. The car was my dad’s before he sold it to me 5-6 years ago. After almost 17 years (car has a build date of Nov 94), the paint is faded to about 5 different shades of red/pink, some interior pieces have broken, the top was just replaced due to leaking, etc… but the motor still runs like it’s brand new.

I am in the planning stages for a restoration/modification, so I come to you for advice and suggestions. I think I’ve got the most of it figured out. The idea is to have a daily driver that will low, loud, and reasonably fast (I’d like to be at 300+hp to the wheels). I understand some of my choices might not be the best, but I am somewhat budget minded since it’s hard to convince my wife that I need a lot of this.

Links provided for items that I have researched a little bit, those that don’t have links are wide open for suggestions. I am also trying to group these upgrades together in some logical order. The suspension and exterior will probably be done first, and then the motor… but what motor parts can be upgraded together? I am also looking for advice on how to clean up the engine bay (wires, etc.) if someone could point me in the right direction for some more reading.

Motor

Driveline

Exhaust

Suspension (I’d put her on air, but it’s WAY too expensive)

Braking
  • Front – Bullitt 13” rotor brake kit with stainless steel hoses or SVE 13” Cobra style brake kit
  • Rear – Bullitt brakes, calipers, & bracket kit
Yes sir sounds like ur on your way I am on thee same project to and would be interested in any parts not going to use? Feel free email me at [email protected]