Modification Survey Thread

apk1971 said:

Serious???

Click to expand...

I tried it at lunch...only worked until I shut the car off. When I started it up again, Hitler was back. Is there a missing step? I think I didn't turn the key all the way back off before starting up, if that has any effect.

cslick said:

I tried it at lunch...only worked until I shut the car off. When I started it up again, Hitler was back. Is there a missing step? I think I didn't turn the key all the way back off before starting up, if that has any effect.

Click to expand...

Same here...

1 - I sat in car
2 - Window already down
3 - Turned ign on
4 - click, unclick
5 - click, unclick
6 - click, unclick
7 - Park Lights on - off
8 - click, unclick
9 - click, unclick
10 - click, unclick
11 - Turned ign off
12 - Started car with seatbelt off... 1 minute later - that damn dinging...

What did I miss?

apk1971 said:

Same here...

1 - I sat in car
2 - Window already down
3 - Turned ign on
4 - click, unclick
5 - click, unclick
6 - click, unclick
7 - Park Lights on - off
8 - click, unclick
9 - click, unclick
10 - click, unclick
11 - Turned ign off
12 - Started car with seatbelt off... 1 minute later - that damn dinging...

What did I miss?

Click to expand...

It actually worked for me the first time I drove the car after doing the Ford OCD routine....but when I got back in the car and started it up again, I heard the evil sound reappear.

Tried it again last night, both ways. If you start the car, without turning the ignition off, after the routine, it works...but only until the car is shut off & restarted.

The proper procedures are in my ('03) owner's manual. One (procedure) is temporary; the other is permanent. I don't know if it is identical for other model years.

I found a link to the procedure:
http://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=193769&highlight=%252Bbeltminder

n0v8or said:

The proper procedures are in my ('03) owner's manual. One (procedure) is temporary; the other is permanent. I don't know if it is identical for other model years.

Click to expand...

You actually read that thing, huh? Thanks for the info...

Cheers!!!

My '02 GT Mods

I've been trying to make sure that I post reviews in the review section for these items as well, since it's nice to see "combined" reviews here but also nice to see what people think of individual parts in the review section.

Before I start listing off the mods I should explain some of my thinking process. First and foremost, my 2002 GT's a daily driver. My daily driving route includes high-speed freeways, train tracks, and speed bumps. My wife and step-kids ride in the car also, so any mods that take substantially away from ride quality or add much "NVH" (Noise, Vibration, Harshness) would be off-limits.

My first goal was to tame the handling of the beast without sacrificing ride quality. In reading posts here and elsewhere, I determined that the best springs within my criteria above would probably be the BBK Progressive Rate Springs, so I purchased a set from Brothers Performance along with polyurethane isolators. I also purchased a set of Tokico Illumina 5-Way Adjustable Shocks and Struts to go with them. Recognizing that I was lowering the car, I knew this would introduce bump steer and screw up some of the steering geometry. I added Steeda's X2 Balljoint Kit and Bumpsteer Kit to the mix. To ensure a good alignment, I also added Steeda's 4-bolt Caster/Camber Plates to the mix. Given the quantity of parts and the amount of work involved, I decided to "hire out" the installation of all this. Took the mechanic (who was a Mustang fanatic himself) about 3 days of solid work to get it all installed and adjusted. The cost was about $700 plus the alignment.

The effect of this combination of parts was amazing to me. The car rides a lot more solidly. Very little nose dive (maybe 1/4") on hard braking. Going over speed bumps doesn't bottom the car out (since the BBKs don't lower it that much) and it doesn't "bounce" more than once coming off the bump. It holds turns a heck of a lot tighter than it did before. Turns I could "white knuckle" around at 55mph I can now routinely take at 60+ without noticing it. Best of all, even with the Tokico's set at 5 (stiffest setting) the ride is in my opinion a tad smoother than stock.

I wasn't looking for a lot of lowering, just enough to get the car to lose the 4x4 look. With the BBK springs, that's gone. With the bumpsteer kit and X2 balljoints, steering geometry is right where it should be.

This weekend I hope to be installing my Steeda Chrome-Moly Strut Tower Brace to further stiffen and strengthen the front end. As soon as I can find a local shop willing and able to do the work, I'll also be having Kenny Brown Super Subframe Connectors, Extreme Matrix Brace, and Jacking Rails installed. If any forum members have worked with a Columbus, OH area shop installing subframe connectors on a late-model Mustang, please let me know. So far no shop I've talked to will touch the job. I'd hate to have to drive to Paul's in Cincinnati or Kenny Brown in Indianapolis, but that's looking like my only option to be sure they're installed correctly.

I also have Borla Turbo XS Pro mufflers installed in my factory pipes. It feels to me like I have a bit more power on the SOTP meter, but can't say for sure that it would show on a dyno.

On the intake side I have C&L's MAF and TrueFlow Inlet Pipe installed. The installation was easy, the fit was good, and again although I don't know if the gains show on a dyno but SOTP feel is that there was improvement.

The only other mods I've made are to install a lot of MGW's chromed billet parts in the interior. Only thing of theirs I don't have are the hanger delete kit and the door lock pins (because I think the pins would make it easier to coat-hanger open the door). Their stuff is pricey but first-rate.

Car's in signature (1990 by the way)
tri-ax very easy install, very fun to drive, easy to shift, like the noise
All the other mods are sitting in my bedroom, i'm really lazy

Ok to bump this up a bit....

Steeda U/D pulleys: SOTP improvement's good and it pulls too

Steeda intake spacer: For the price I figured why not. Scary thing is it seems to make a difference

Steeda sport springs: Going in, half in so far and look good. Going in along with the next few things

Steeda Bumpsteer kit
X2 Balljoint kit
Caster/Camber plates. Might as well fix alignment and handling at once.

Next on the list: GW Subframe Connectors, and Magnaflow Catback

ok. Here's my list...

Tri-Ax: Wow, shifting should feel like this in any vehicle. Incredible. Can't miss 3rd... Perfect.
C&L Plenum: Nice SOTP improvement - no dyno #s(for anything btw). Definitely worth it. Wish it was polished though.
Accufab 75mm TB: Really woke the car up with the C&L Plenum.
Dr. Gas O/R X pipe: Holy cow!!! Great power increase, loud as hell too. H-Pipe tone until 2000 rpm, then it gets nice and smooth. 4000+ rpm and the car just screams with...
Flowmaster Force II cat-back: Great sound, but nice on the ears if you don't lay into it. Loud as hell (w/ the Dr. Gas) when you get on it. Very good quality and fitment!
Steeda Timing Adjuster: Gave a nice torque and power increase....set @ 14* as of right now. Will get rid of it once I get a SCT chip in a few weeks.
Mac Straight Shot CAI: Wow, SOTP increase was nice! Bling factor under the hood is sweet. Was way too tight of a fit, and the included hose clamps suck. Still worth it though.
FR C Springs: Install was brain-dead easy. 1.5 hours for all four corners. Ride height is perfect, ride quality is nice and firm but not harsh. Corners much better now, but my exhaust scrapes if I'm not careful.

MY LIST-98/04 Swapped GT

98 GT Silver/Grey Leather all options except abs
Ford Racing 3.73 Gearset
2004 Ford 281 2v Crate Engine
Flowmaster Original 50's weld ins
Pro 5.0 Shifter
MM C/C plates
M/M Full Lenght Subframe Connectors
M/M Tie Rod ends
M/M Center drilled Steering rack bushings
Kenny Brown Strut Tower Brace
Bullitt Springs
Tokico HPs
Momo Sport 17x8" wheels Silver Metallic
BFG G Force KDW 245/45/17
"One Off" Custom Carbon Interior Panels
Clear Corners
Sylvania Silverstars(6)

Original Owner
234rwhp 14.95@97 2.45 60'(12/3/05)-Test Run.

2001 Mustang

2 Chamger Flowmast: love the sound but does drone around 2200 rpms. $99

CAI : Bought this on E-bay from race_guys and definitaly pleased. Easy installation and nice look. All aluminum with reusable filter. Used stock sensors which bolted right on. $33.00 Made exhaust note drop and sound tits. Also the drone isn't as loud

Next step, Vortech supercharge and Snowball performance cooler and Eibach sport kit springs. Drop little more than 1"
Supercharger4less = $3199, Snoball performance cooler = $400

I have a 2001 True Blue GT 5speed that my wife bought me Christmas of '03.
This is my daily driver and has only 34xxx k miles on it to date.
I started with a baseline dyno from Houston Perfomance and it put 225 rwhp, the lead for the torque was screwed so I don't know what it did there. Oh I should mention that it had Flows welded in place.

I dropped in a K&N filter and removed the silencer.

I added a Magnaflow Stainless Highflow Catted X-Pipe and Magnaflow Stainless Catback. This brought my numbers up to 239 rwhp and 283 rwtq.
It makes a nice difference in the sound too

I did away with the 4X4 look and put in FRPP "C" Springs. This gave the car a little over 1" drop which was my goal as I don't want to do the Bump steer kit or C/C plates.

Steeda Tri-ax shifter for the T45 tranny. This thing shifts a hellalot nicer now with virtually no missing 3rd unless you are just clumsey.

Mac White face gauges to help the interior out a little.

Traded the 17x8 Polished Cobra rims for a set of 17x9 Chrome Cobra R's
I think the overall apperance of the car is much better it helps to feel out the back fender overhang.

C&L Inlet Pipe - waiting to install
Accufab 75mm Throttle Body - waiting to install
FMS 3.73 gears - waiting to install
Strut Tower Brace - waiting to install as well.

2003 Mustang GT

White 2003 Mustang GT bought through Ebay for 14k. Had 7500 miles when I picked it up. All the below mods were already installed.


Mods:
K&N filter
4.10 gears
SLP Loudmouth exhaust
Steeda Camber/Suspension
Steeda Subframe
Steeda Lowering Kit (approx 2")
Steeda Tri-X shifter w/Billet knob


Cosmetic:
Cobra-R style hood (cowled)
Cobra-R wing
Cobra front skirt
Cobra rear valance
Cobra tail lights
17" Z-rated tires (rear ones are 11" wide, too big!) w/Cobra-R rims (chrome)
Cobra/SVT badges

The guy I bought it from never fixed the speedo after he installed the 4.10 gears and the new tires. That is going to be my first fix, but I don't know if I want to go with a SpeedCal or just go all out and get the Diablo Predator. I would also like to get SLP Headers/X-Pipe, but damn are they pricey. To be honest, this is my first modded car. I love Stangs, but I've never really played with them like this. I don't exactly know what I'm doing so I am trying to educate myself so I don't look stupid. I'd like to be able to get decent times on the 1/4 mile, but this is also going to be somewhat of a daily driver in the summer. I humbly ask for advice from those that are more experienced (i.e., just about everyone here)

Also, before I get "bombed", yes, I am planning on removing the Cobra badges. I'm not going to drive around pretending I'm a Cobra. I'll not be removing the cobra-marked rear valance any time soon, though, at least not until I feel I can afford to pay several hundred for another cosmetic upgrade.

Thoughts? Recommendations?

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ummm anyhow...

reguarding the 4.10's in your car will be pegged out down to the needle past the 150 mph marker at about 5300 rpms in 5th gear, take it from someone who knows.

150 nice

2003 Auto GT

Flowmaster American Thunder Catback:
Great sound, definite improvement in the seat of pants feel. Don't know what gains it made; didn't get it to a dyno before hand. But, I will use this as the base line.

216 hp
256 ft-lbs

SCT Chip from www.BamaChips.com:
This thing is AWESOME. The shifts are HARD. This is a Great mod. I haven't had a chance to try the 93 octane program but here are the numbers for the 87 oct program... I'm gonna try to get it back to the dyno mid-jan to try the 93 program

87 Octane Program
226 hp
270 ft-lbs

MAC Prochamber:
Still waiting for UPS to deliver it... I'll post results up next week...

Richmond Gear 3.73's:
Being installed this thursday ...

Jon

Groucho said:

My first goal was to tame the handling of the beast without sacrificing ride quality. In reading posts here and elsewhere, I determined that the best springs within my criteria above would probably be the BBK Progressive Rate Springs, so I purchased a set from Brothers Performance along with polyurethane isolators. I also purchased a set of Tokico Illumina 5-Way Adjustable Shocks and Struts to go with them. Recognizing that I was lowering the car, I knew this would introduce bump steer and screw up some of the steering geometry. I added Steeda's X2 Balljoint Kit and Bumpsteer Kit to the mix. To ensure a good alignment, I also added Steeda's 4-bolt Caster/Camber Plates to the mix. Given the quantity of parts and the amount of work involved, I decided to "hire out" the installation of all this. Took the mechanic (who was a Mustang fanatic himself) about 3 days of solid work to get it all installed and adjusted. The cost was about $700 plus the alignment.


I also have Borla Turbo XS Pro mufflers installed in my factory pipes. It feels to me like I have a bit more power on the SOTP meter, but can't say for sure that it would show on a dyno.

On the intake side I have C&L's MAF and TrueFlow Inlet Pipe installed. The installation was easy, the fit was good, and again although I don't know if the gains show on a dyno but SOTP feel is that there was improvement.

The only other mods I've made are to install a lot of MGW's chromed billet parts in the interior. Only thing of theirs I don't have are the hanger delete kit and the door lock pins (because I think the pins would make it easier to coat-hanger open the door). Their stuff is pricey but first-rate.

Click to expand...

$700 Man you got ripped off. I had a shop put in all of those parts in my car plus the swaybar, offset A-arm bushings , rear tie rods, and Crossbrace with diff bushings for $250.