Molding in GT Wing seam lines?

KlrSnk

New Member
Jun 21, 2006
0
0
0
My car goes into paint on Saturday and I was thinking about having my bodyguy using bondo or some other substance to fill in the seam between the seam of the GT wing and the hatch. I like the look of the wing, and probably wont change it for another one so that wont be an issue, I was wondering if any of you guys have done this?
 
If you do end up doing this make sure you seal it all the way around. My car sits outside (unfortunately) and water just sits inside at the bottom of the wing and it is starting to rust. I even ended up making some drain holes at the back of the wing :(
 
A local guy to me had a body shop smooth the fenders to the front and maybe even rear bumpers...

Actually doesnt look bad, but something I wouldnt do. As far as the GT wing, I think that could look good. It would be similar to the older fox's with molded wings!
 
25thmustang said:
A local guy to me had a body shop smooth the fenders to the front and maybe even rear bumpers...

Actually doesnt look bad, but something I wouldnt do. As far as the GT wing, I think that could look good. It would be similar to the older fox's with molded wings!

Dont think i'd do the bumpers, never know when you might accidently run over one and crack it and there it will be, a pain in the ass to remove, as far as the spoiler i cant think of anything other than putting on another spoiler that would require taking it off.
 
It's going to crack. The only way to prevent this is to truely secure the wing to the hatch in such a way to prevent movement such as welding.

However you can't weld a metal hatch to a composite spoiler. Over time it would develop hairline cracks as the spoiler moves as you hit bumps.

Cool idea, but i can't see it holding up.
 
Mustang5L5 said:
It's going to crack. The only way to prevent this is to truely secure the wing to the hatch in such a way to prevent movement such as welding.

However you can't weld a metal hatch to a composite spoiler. Over time it would develop hairline cracks as the spoiler moves as you hit bumps.

Cool idea, but i can't see it holding up.

I see what you're saying, im not dead set on having it done yet, I was just wondering if anyone had done it and had any problems, and how it looked.
 
Dont even try to do it, if your body man would agree to do that, you shouldnt have him paint your car. Any good body man will know that it will crack. Theres alot of flex in the hatch. I would highly recommend not doing it.
 
People say the engine bay will crack also... I have had mine for for a few years and it hasent cracked yet, through many full throttle powershifts, track passes, and daily driving...


This might be different, but its the same "thoughts" from everyone!
 
IT WONT CRACK IF YOUR BODYMAN IS GOOD!
my dads been in autobody all his life, an he said you would have to get the ritemiteral aka bondo , there are diffrent types like use duraglass an put some fiberglass resin/hardner too make the duraglass stronger an help thin it out, u could also use the rite epoxy an put it on top like a skim coat, an let dry an sand....... ive done speaker boxxes for subwoofer that are in the high 160db's and if youve ever felt the box while its playing youd know what type of vibration the box is holding up an not crack! trust me it can be done but the question is does your bodyman know his stuff?
 
imo get another hatch mold a spoiler to it with tiger hair (bondo hair) paint it along with the hatch/spoiler you already have on the car.

that way if it does crack you will have another hatch/spoiler painted ready to put on.

i think that it will hold, because i see alot of cars with molded hood scoops that arnt cracked
 
If someone holds up one side of the hatch, and another pulls down on it, it will move about 3/4". That is definitely going to crack, no matter what you use. Those hatch's are weak. Your going to ruin a perfectly good hatch.
 
also don't forget that it's more than just flexing which causes bondo to crack, the temperature also plays a big role.

The expanding and contracting with the temperature will also make it crack!

Now, if you could somehow fiberglass the hatch to the wing....maybe that'd work out.