Motor Build-up Help! 'Rods and Pistons'

ChromdOutDubs · Apr 23, 2006

Ok I postin this in this forum cuz i coudlnt find a 351w forum... But im sure its all pretty much assembled the same as a 302. Ok im in the process of buidling my new 408w stroker. Im kinda stuck on which way to put the pistons in and which way to put the rods in. Which side do the dishes on the pistons go, to the inside or outside of the block? Which way do the rods go in, i was told that the little bearing keys slots go to the inside of the block? He said he was 90% sure about that, but i cant take any chances of getting wrong info and messin up my entire motor... Thanks for the help guys!

-AJ Newman

johny · Apr 24, 2006

Im not sure if you already got your answer but here is my 2cents. You should have a 45deg angle/champer on one side of the rod. This needs to face the crank radius. Im not sure what kind of pistons you have but if you have valve
reliefs the intake valve reliefs face the front of the engine on the right side/passenger side and the exhaust valve reliefs all face the front on the left side/drivers side. Hope that helps, good luck.

ChromdOutDubs · Apr 24, 2006

Thanks for the response. I figured out which way the pistons go in, the only thing left is the rods. Im postin sum pics of the pistons and rods, they guy who did my machine work told me what way to put the pistons in, but didnt mension the rods.

Any other enginer builders out there that want to put there knowledge into this, i know this is a basic thing, and thats what makes me frustrated that i cant find out how.... All the books i have tell you how to do stock Rods, but they say the numbered side.... I don thave numbered sides.....

MrKwik · Apr 25, 2006

ChromdOutDubs said:
Any other enginer builders out there that want to put there knowledge into this, i know this is a basic thing, and thats what makes me frustrated that i cant find out how.... All the books i have tell you how to do stock Rods, but they say the numbered side.... I don thave numbered sides.....

Not sure what else you want to know because Johny already answered you rrod question. You need to make sure the chamfered side of the rod is faced to the outside where the crank throw is radiusd. If you get one in wrong, you will know it because the crank wont turn once you torque the caps down.

ChromdOutDubs · Apr 25, 2006

i just wanted to get more than one persons thoughts, dont know if he is right or not, would be bad for him to be wrong and i mess summin up...

Thanks for the helps guys

jerryD · Apr 25, 2006

duno if you mentioned it or not, but i would advise to get the stuff balanced while it is still out. your motor will run a little smoother and be happier when you spin it to 6K or whatever.

ChromdOutDubs · Apr 26, 2006

Yes iv already gotten my rotating assembly balanced, it costed me $250 bucks, hope its worth it, im sure it is, thats wat everyone seems to think.

Rick 91GT · Apr 26, 2006

Balancing is not an option, it is a REQUIREMENT

As already stated, the radius edge goes towards the crank, the Pistons are as noted above. 2 spirla locks per side, make sure you coat the pin good, it is the only lube it will have until the motor is started.

I am assuming you have to file the rings to fit as well, have you ever done that, do you have a ring filer or are you planning to do it by hand with a flat file? Did you notch the cylinder walls for rod bolt clearance? Were all the parts mocked up and measured? Are you using H-Series bearings?

ChromdOutDubs · May 15, 2006

I just got my rods and all assembled, i kinda had a hard time puttin those clips to hold the floatin pin in, but i got the hang of it and got them in pretty quick. I checked all clearances on rings and got them all put on the pistons. I will be puttin the rod and piston assembly into the engine 2morrow. I was wondering, ho wmuch do i need to notch the cyclinders.. i know you have to notch it enough for clerance obviously, but do you need a lil extra clearance room say 1/8 inch or 1/4 more for w/e reason???? Visit the link below and check my build-up so far. Thanks for the heplp guys.

https://home.comcast.net/~chromdoutdubs/408w/

-AJ Newman

Rick 91GT · May 16, 2006

.080" is the minimum clearance you want for thre rod bolt to cylinder clearance, I shoot for .100"

Spiral locks aren't too bad once you get the hang of them, hopefully you put the rods on correct or you'll be learning how fun it is to pull them off.

Clean the block really good after notching, hot soapy water...then oil the cylinders and any other surface so they do not rust.

dragnazz5.0 · May 16, 2006

maybe its just the quality or the angle of the pic but those rods dont look like they have been split yet. maybe its just me?

Rick 91GT · May 16, 2006

I can see the parting seam...

dragnazz5.0 · May 16, 2006

after looking again, you can almost see it. i guess i just didnt look hard enough

ChromdOutDubs · May 16, 2006

Rick 91GT said:
Spiral locks aren't too bad once you get the hang of them, hopefully you put the rods on correct or you'll be learning how fun it is to pull them off.

I hope I did it right, I followed their directions, i put the chamfered side of the rod to the radiused edge of the crank. So i think that means that cylinders 1,2,3, and 4 have the chamfered side to the front of the engine and cylinder 5,6,7, and 8 have the chamfered side to the rear of the motor. lol

What do yall use to notch yur stuff? A file... or what!?!?!?!

Thanks for the help again -AJ Newman

Rick 91GT · May 17, 2006

Yes that is correct, just make sure your vale reilefs are in the right place. The only place this gets confusing is when the pistons have offset pins and are not all identical. They usually put a FRONT and a arrow on those.

I use a die grinder with a carbide cutter.

ChromdOutDubs · May 17, 2006

The machine shop the machined my block and all, they numbered my pistons and i talked to him. He said he put the number so the number should be at the front of the engine. I followed what he said and from other info from other people it seems to be correct.... Thanks again!

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