Motor Mounts

A5literMan

At least it is lumpy...
5 Year Member
Jul 30, 2011
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Illinois
I was thinking I might as well swap out the old mounts in the car while I'm doing the h/c/i. I am looking at the prothane mounts on late model. Any good? Different recommendations?
 
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I have prothane's on my car, which were on it when I bought it. They are probably 6+ years old and have held up well, but, they did make the motor sit higher. I also have a UPR kmember, just to be up front and fair. With the Systemax intake, no spacer, I had to cut the bracing under the factory hood to clear.

Joe
 
I have prothane's on my car, which were on it when I bought it. They are probably 6+ years old and have held up well, but, they did make the motor sit higher. I also have a UPR kmember, just to be up front and fair. With the Systemax intake, no spacer, I had to cut the bracing under the factory hood to clear.

Joe
=bummer for me. I really don't want to change my hood right now if ever.
 
Are you running tall valve covers which will require an intake spacer too? increased intake height plus increase engine mount height = cowl hood?
I'm running the same covers as you with a systemax. You had to run the spacer to clear?:thinking:not a huge deal but I thought they cleared otb. Maybe I'll try to find some convertible drop mounts instead. Decisions decisions hmmm?
 
Oops, I forgot you have the same Canton VC's that I have. They cleared just fine without an intake spacer. I have a 2" cowl hood that will be going on my car regardless (i like them) but I just might put the stock hood on to see if it there is contact or not just for chits & giggles.
 
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I'm running the same covers as you with a systemax. You had to run the spacer to clear?:thinking:not a huge deal but I thought they cleared otb. Maybe I'll try to find some convertible drop mounts instead. Decisions decisions hmmm?


I f you want some solid drop mounts I know a guy that has some he's not using. They can be rough, but theyll never break.
 
I f you want some solid drop mounts I know a guy that has some he's not using. They can be rough, but theyll never break.
Well this is just a "fun" track car but it does see a 1-2k street miles(avg last 3 years). How rough are the solids? I've never rode in a street car with them. My buddy has them in a Chevelle but it rarely sees street time.
 
Oops, I forgot you have the same Canton VC's that I have. They cleared just fine without an intake spacer. I have a 2" cowl hood that will be going on my car regardless (i like them) but I just might put the stock hood on to see if it there is contact or not just for chits & giggles.
I like cowl hoods also. I just don't want to do it at this time.
 
Honestly I've only had them in drag cars which rode like tanks anyway. It's just going to transfer all the vibration from the engine into the chassis and then you. If you don't mind that... you're golden. If youwant smooth and comfy, maybe not.
 
This will def elinimate the need for a cowl, I was going to use them to tuck a windsor under a stock hood, but the caveat is you may have to get offset rack bushings because it drops your pan down so far.
 
Know that if you run puly motor and trans mounts, you will get increased NVH in the car. If you go with the poly motor mounts, use the stock trans mount. I've used fox body convertible motor mounts on several street cars and they work well, in addition to dropping the motor about 3/4 of an inch.
 
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Know that if you run puly motor and trans mounts, you will get increased NVH in the car. If you go with the poly motor mounts, use the stock trans mount. I've used fox body convertible motor mounts on several street cars and they work well, in addition to dropping the motor about 3/4 of an inch.
I think I'm going to get the vert mounts. Solids are well..to solid lol. The polys seem to be an issue also so...the convertible mounts seem to be the answer. Thanks
 
I have heard about street/strip GM's running solid mounts on all three spots breaking things. If your chassis flexes, and your motor/tranny can not, something has to give. One was the side of a 350 block, one was the mount area around the TH350 mount, and the other was a bell housing. I will not test if Fords are stronger.
When I had the output shaft bushing and drive shaft assy replaced in my T5, I had them replace the rear mount with a poly one. NHV is much less than before the fix. I am not afraid of trying poly motor mounts if they work as well as the tranny mount does. But the captured design of the convertible is a good way to go.
 
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energy suspension mounts are stock convertible/later hardtop style and height, i run them (and their trans mount), no issues with the stock k-member, nor do i have issues with hood clearance with a 3/8" intake spacer (tfs street), though i do have a 1.5" cowl. i see no reason it wouldnt fit under a stock hood. prothanes use the older, hardtop style design which is significantly higher in the first place, besides just a new mount being taller than a worn out stocker.

have no fear running poly mounts, nvh wont be much different, especially if your car has any kind of mods. solid motor mounts would be fine as long as you use a poly or rubber trans mount (something has to give somewhere).
 
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Sorry for the off topic response but I was just curious if this is the fastest pony you've built thus far?
Should be. After getting it all sorted out I'm expecting a 11.xx timeslip n/a. I still haven't ruled out a small nitrous kit for a future try at 10's before building a dart based motor. All with a steel hood/full weight car. While staying streetable. Don't know if I'll get there but that's the plan. I'll be happy with 12.-12.10's in that configuration. Can always take weight out later if I need/want to.