I was thinking I might as well swap out the old mounts in the car while I'm doing the h/c/i. I am looking at the prothane mounts on late model. Any good? Different recommendations?
Kind of curious on increased height and vibration differences.Those are the ones I bought however I'm obviously not finished with my build so I can't tell you how well they perform while being behind the wheel.
=bummer for me. I really don't want to change my hood right now if ever.I have prothane's on my car, which were on it when I bought it. They are probably 6+ years old and have held up well, but, they did make the motor sit higher. I also have a UPR kmember, just to be up front and fair. With the Systemax intake, no spacer, I had to cut the bracing under the factory hood to clear.
Joe
I'm running the same covers as you with a systemax. You had to run the spacer to clear?not a huge deal but I thought they cleared otb. Maybe I'll try to find some convertible drop mounts instead. Decisions decisions hmmm?Are you running tall valve covers which will require an intake spacer too? increased intake height plus increase engine mount height = cowl hood?
I'm running the same covers as you with a systemax. You had to run the spacer to clear?not a huge deal but I thought they cleared otb. Maybe I'll try to find some convertible drop mounts instead. Decisions decisions hmmm?
Well this is just a "fun" track car but it does see a 1-2k street miles(avg last 3 years). How rough are the solids? I've never rode in a street car with them. My buddy has them in a Chevelle but it rarely sees street time.I f you want some solid drop mounts I know a guy that has some he's not using. They can be rough, but theyll never break.
I like cowl hoods also. I just don't want to do it at this time.Oops, I forgot you have the same Canton VC's that I have. They cleared just fine without an intake spacer. I have a 2" cowl hood that will be going on my car regardless (i like them) but I just might put the stock hood on to see if it there is contact or not just for chits & giggles.
I think I'm going to get the vert mounts. Solids are well..to solid lol. The polys seem to be an issue also so...the convertible mounts seem to be the answer. ThanksKnow that if you run puly motor and trans mounts, you will get increased NVH in the car. If you go with the poly motor mounts, use the stock trans mount. I've used fox body convertible motor mounts on several street cars and they work well, in addition to dropping the motor about 3/4 of an inch.
Sorry for the off topic response but I was just curious if this is the fastest pony you've built thus far?I think I'm going to get the vert mounts. Solids are well..to solid lol. The polys seem to be an issue also so...the convertible mounts seem to be the answer. Thanks
Should be. After getting it all sorted out I'm expecting a 11.xx timeslip n/a. I still haven't ruled out a small nitrous kit for a future try at 10's before building a dart based motor. All with a steel hood/full weight car. While staying streetable. Don't know if I'll get there but that's the plan. I'll be happy with 12.-12.10's in that configuration. Can always take weight out later if I need/want to.Sorry for the off topic response but I was just curious if this is the fastest pony you've built thus far?