Motor Out, Now Confusion.

[85rkyboby]

I pulled my motor out this last weekend. Tore it down. This is a 1980 302 block out of a Full Sized Ford. It has cross hatching that looks good! I was glad, but to my surprise the pistons have two valve reliefs. What's up with that? Not sure if it matters but the reason I pulled the motor was due to low compression in one cylinder. Squirt a little oil in the cylinder and the compression jumped back up. Bad Rings. Anything look different on this motor than what would come standard?

 

[picku]

On the picture the cross hatching doesn´t really looking like a cross hatching????

 

[stykthyn]

thats an 80 block? why would that be in there? thats not a roller block. what heads were you running?

 

[85rkyboby]

On the picture the cross hatching doesn´t really looking like a cross hatching????

What's it look like?

thats an 80 block? why would that be in there? thats not a roller block. what heads were you running?

Yepper. E0 block. PO installed it. Nope not a roller, as for the heads I'm not sure. I assumed E5's.

Any info on this or help is much appreciated. Where would a casting number be found on the heads?

 

[BMW Rider]

The valve relief cuts on the piston is normal. In production assembly when the piston is installed on the rod, it does not matter the orientation as the piston can fit either way.

 

[stykthyn]

I wouldnt even mess with that. get an explorer engine.

 

[Mustang5L5]

Underside of the head where the rods pass through is where you will find the casting number.

 

[85rkyboby]

Underside of the head where the rods pass through is where you will find the casting number.

Thanks. I'll check it out in the morning.

 

[85rkyboby]

Underside of the head where the rods pass through is where you will find the casting number.

D80E was on the bottom of the cyllinder head. I think these have big 68-70cc combustion chambers. Turd.

I wouldnt even mess with that. get an explorer engine.

I have a buddy that has a 98k mile Explorer motor with GT40 heads. He wants $550, I spent the last night talking him down to $400 and a pack of Red Apple Ale.

My whole thing was I could rebuild the flat tappet motor for around $200. If I go with this GT40 motor I'll be around $700 into said and done. I understand why one would want a roller motor of a prehistoric flat tappet. I do have a few questions though, if someone can help. Flat tappet motors wear out rings quicker due to the metal shavings coming off the cam, correct? How long would one expect a flat tappet to last in spirited driving conditions, before needing a rebuild again? I understand there's a ton of variables.

I really just need a motor in the car long enough for me to finish my 351 build. Then I'll try and find a fox for the misses and give her the 302.

 

[7991LXnSHO]

I wouldnt even mess with that. get an explorer engine.

Exploder engines are getting harder to find in good shape. Most of them are driven until the wheels fall off here. A roller cam is nice, but what are his performance, power and cost goals? If he needs a complete rebuild, then even a worn Explorer block (with the right headers) is a better starting point. Short of that, using zinc additive oil is no big deal for a driver.

 

[85rkyboby]

Exploder engines are getting harder to find in good shape. Most of them are driven until the wheels fall off here. A roller cam is nice, but what are his performance, power and cost goals? If he needs a complete rebuild, then even a worn Explorer block (with the right headers) is a better starting point. Short of that, using zinc additive oil is no big deal for a driver.

The motor I currently have looks as if its had machine work as well. Cross hatching on the cylinder walls (pics above), the rod bearings look good, only a small spot that has copper coming through. I just don't want to scrap the flat tappet motor for a roller motor that needs machine work. Although the GT40 motors heads, intakes, etc would fetch a penny I presume.

Goals. Cost wise I have about $1300 to spend. Performance isn't a huge issue. I'd like to just make the best with GT40 heads. Say 250rwhp-300rwhp. Street driven motor, will not see a drag strip. I have a heavy foot and love spirited driving.

 

[mikestang63]

If the exploder motor is in good shape, for $400 it's a deal. Swap out the valve springs, cam, timing chain and gears, fresh set of gaskets, new oil pump, rear main seal, and other tune up items. and you'll have a nice little motor that puts out around 260rwhp. Swap over your accesorires, headers, distributor

 

[85rkyboby]

@mikestang63 Would I see any more power out of a custom ground cam?

 

[mikestang63]

@mikestang63 Would I see any more power out of a custom ground cam?

Probably but not worth the money in a budget exploder motor. There's more to it than the cam- if you are doing any cam other than the stock 5.0 HO cam you are talking new pushrods. lifters, rockers. At a minimum,. you should get new lifters, check the rockers for wear, and measure for proper pushrod length when you go up in cam past stock. With a TFS1 or similar cam, you might be able to get away with the stock pushrods and rockers.

 

[Noobz347]

@mikestang63 Would I see any more power out of a custom ground cam?

Perhaps but not worth it for the kind of build you're talking about.

 

[Noobz347]

Mike beat me by a second.

 

[85rkyboby]

Thanks @mikestang63 & @Noobz347! Yea, I don't mind throwing some money at the valvetrain setup for a TFS1. I figure $800 should be close to how much I would need.

 

[85rkyboby]

Is the Fel-Pro Gasket Kit Sets FS8346PT a good gasket set?

 

[85rkyboby]

I acquired the 96 Explorer GT40 engine GT40 Cylinder Heads, TFS1 Cam, TF Valve Spring Kit, Melling Oil Pump, Melling Timing Chain Set, FRPP Crankshaft Dampner. I have one question though. I noticed how the GT40P heads have a smaller combustion chamber than the GT40P to raise the CR. I was wondering how much I can mill the heads to bump up the CR, how small can I make the combustion chamber?

Thanks,
Garrick A.R.