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Engine MOTOR & TRANS MOUNT

  • Thread starter Thread starter R82148V
  • Start date Start date Jun 29, 2020
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R82148V

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May 26, 2020
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Jun 29, 2020
#1
  • Jun 29, 2020
  • #1
Hello Everyone,

Just a quick question.
I need to replace the motor and trans mounts. I'm looking to stay rubber, but keep reading that DEA, ANCHOR, WESTAR are all junk..
Where can I purchase good OEM or aftermarket rubber mounts? I cant see paying $200+ for Energy Suspension.
Any ideas!

Thanks and Stay Safe out there!
 

R82148V

Active Member
May 26, 2020
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Jun 29, 2020
#2
  • Jun 29, 2020
  • #2
This is an 1987 and have stock ones in there now. The engine is leaning towards the passenger side and after inspecting the mount you can see part of the mount broke off almost like the engine bolt was tighter too much.
 

Four eyed Maude

Member
Feb 26, 2018
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Jun 29, 2020
#3
  • Jun 29, 2020
  • #3
The ones I bought most recently are from LMR. Heavy duty they are called, and with trans mount cost me $100 . Fit well and no complaints. Rubber like the factory units.
 

RaggedGT

Been here over a DECADE and still no CT
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#4
  • Jun 29, 2020
  • #4
Fwiw I’ve been using anchor mounts across many platforms of cars for years without much issue(if any) RockAuto.com usually has motorcraft parts at a pretty good price(we also get a forum discount lol.)
 

Adieu

Easy there, this ain't a dating site.
20+ Year Stangneter
Mar 7, 2002
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Jun 29, 2020
#5
  • Jun 29, 2020
  • #5
R82148V said:
Hello Everyone,

Just a quick question.
I need to replace the motor and trans mounts. I'm looking to stay rubber, but keep reading that DEA, ANCHOR, WESTAR are all junk..
Where can I purchase good OEM or aftermarket rubber mounts? I cant see paying $200+ for Energy Suspension.
Any ideas!

Thanks and Stay Safe out there!
Click to expand...
Anchor is okay. They're not as "nice" as OEM mounts (in fact, they frequently look like crap), but they're similar in quality. I've installed a ton of them over the years.

If you can find Pioneer, their mounts are usually hard to tell apart from the factory mounts on fox-bodies, and they won't break the bank, I've installed a lot of them as well.
 
Reactions: General karthief

R82148V

Active Member
May 26, 2020
256
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Jun 29, 2020
#6
  • Jun 29, 2020
  • #6
Four eyed Maude said:
The ones I bought most recently are from LMR. Heavy duty they are called, and with trans mount cost me $100 . Fit well and no complaints. Rubber like the factory units.
Click to expand...
I saw the ones you’re talking about on LMR. Out of stock for the next two weeks but they do look good. No issues with them?
 

R82148V

Active Member
May 26, 2020
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Jun 29, 2020
#7
  • Jun 29, 2020
  • #7
RaggedGT said:
Fwiw I’ve been using anchor mounts across many platforms of cars for years without much issue(if any) RockAuto.com usually has motorcraft parts at a pretty good price(we also get a forum discount lol.)
Click to expand...
Wwwwwait a minute. We get a forum discount on rock auto?
 

R82148V

Active Member
May 26, 2020
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Jun 29, 2020
#8
  • Jun 29, 2020
  • #8
74stang2togo said:
Anchor is okay. They're not as "nice" as OEM mounts (in fact, they frequently look like crap), but they're similar in quality. I've installed a ton of them over the years.

If you can find Pioneer, their mounts are usually hard to tell apart from the factory mounts on fox-bodies, and they won't break the bank, I've installed a lot of them as well.
Click to expand...
I’m not about looks when it comes to mounts , just want them to perform. If Anchors are close to OEM then I’m for them. I did see some retailers with Pioneers. I’ll check them out for sure!
 

General karthief

wonder how much it would cost to ship you a pair
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#9
  • Jun 30, 2020
  • #9
R82148V said:
Wwwwwait a minute. We get a forum discount on rock auto?
Click to expand...
If you have been here long enough to 'see' the vendor forum on the main page they post product info and 'stuff'.
 
Reactions: 7991LXnSHO

Four eyed Maude

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#10
  • Jun 30, 2020
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Only real problem I have run it to with aftermarket mounts is if there is not new hardware, old nut may have different thread pitch. It's happened to me twice. Trip to the hardware store took care of it, but always check before you install.
 
Reactions: General karthief

R82148V

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May 26, 2020
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#11
  • Jun 30, 2020
  • #11
Four eyed Maude said:
Only real problem I have run it to with aftermarket mounts is if there is not new hardware, old nut may have different thread pitch. It's happened to me twice. Trip to the hardware store took care of it, but always check before you install.
Click to expand...
Perfect!!

I have a very conflicting question. Where do you life the engine from? I read oil pan, but where? Back or front? I also heard Trans bellhousing? Where though.?

Thanks!!
 

Adieu

Easy there, this ain't a dating site.
20+ Year Stangneter
Mar 7, 2002
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#12
  • Jun 30, 2020
  • #12
R82148V said:
Perfect!!

I have a very conflicting question. Where do you life the engine from? I read oil pan, but where? Back or front? I also heard Trans bellhousing? Where though.?

Thanks!!
Click to expand...
If you don't have a cherry picker/engine lift/shop crane, the best way I've found to do engine mounts on a fox is to get the car on ramps or jackstands, then use a floor jack with a block of wood under the rear section of the oil pan.
 

R82148V

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May 26, 2020
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Jun 30, 2020
#13
  • Jun 30, 2020
  • #13
74stang2togo said:
If you don't have a cherry picker/engine lift/shop crane, the best way I've found to do engine mounts on a fox is to get the car on ramps or jack stands, then use a floor jack with a block of wood under the rear section of the oil pan.
Click to expand...
Wish I did have something overhead to help hoist it up.. I do have the car up on car ramps and the headers off for easiest access. I wanted to clean them up anyway.. So you just use like a 2x4 under the rear section of the pan? I read somewhere that you should keep the jack on the furthest part back on the pan in stead of the mid way point? I'm just soooo nervous of damaging the pan, gasket or the engine slipping off..

Also, better to do one side at a time? I guess loosen both mounts, lift take one mount out, install new mount, repeat for the other side, lower the jack and tighten everything up?
 

Gs1987GT

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#14
  • Jul 2, 2020
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I just did mine within the past month. Loosen both but only take one side off at a time so you don't lose alignment. I bought the energy suspension mounts and they are very nice. Worth the money for something you don't do often and on a car that when I drive it, gets run pretty hard.

The energy suspension mounts are bigger than the OEM mounts and were tough to get in. To gain enough clearance, I had to unbolt my fan as it was hitting the shroud.
I did mine on my lift. On the ground/ jackstands it would be more difficult. Take your time! As hard as I tried, the right side rear mount bolt snapped off in the block, which resulted in a marathon trying to get it out. I never was able to and ended up drilling and tapping it. Not fun and very challenging with the engine in the car

My oe mounts from 87 were literally falling apart. The car drove much better after the change. I got the combo engine/trans mount from rock auto. Good luck!
 

R82148V

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May 26, 2020
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Jul 2, 2020
#15
  • Jul 2, 2020
  • #15
I'm having the same issue with the right side rear mount bolt.. Its not budging and nervous it'll snap off.
 

OldManRiver

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Feb 14, 2015
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Jul 2, 2020
#16
  • Jul 2, 2020
  • #16
Smoke wrench.
Even if you have a propane torch,hold it on the boss for a good 5 min that bolt will come loose.
Good luck
 

Gs1987GT

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Sep 25, 2019
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Jul 3, 2020
#17
  • Jul 3, 2020
  • #17
Be very careful. I thought I was doing a good thing by using a ratchet and unbolting them by hand. After the RR one snapped off, I just used an impact gun and a swivel for the other two. Figured if they snap off, then I pull the engine.

Both left side ones came out with the impact gun. Probably the vibrations of the gun helped loosen the bolt.

I don't know if heat is going to help you or not, but you can try. It didnt help me get the broken piece out of the block. I had my block heated cherry red (at least 3 times on that RR bolt mount area) yet the piece broken off in the block wouldn't budge at all.

Your car is an 87 like mine which makes me nervous for you. Penetrating oil really does not help in this case gravity works against you. Heck even after I drilled through the broken piece in my block and sprayed PB blaster up so it could flow from the top down it didnt help. The main reason mine is fixed without pulling the engine is I'm fortunate to have a lift. Without that, the drilling and tapping would have been near impossible.

Good luck man.
 

R82148V

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May 26, 2020
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Jul 10, 2020
#18
  • Jul 10, 2020
  • #18
Hello Everyone!
Hope you all are being and staying safe!

I just wanted to give an update on the engine and trans mount install. Everything went smoothly!

All engine bolts came out with only one bolt giving a hard time on the passenger side.
I was able to crack it loose using PB blaster, a wrench and pry bar.. I had the headers off so I was able to do this from above.. I applied the pry bar between the wrench and K-member and just applied pressure on and off.. What happened was the mount surface at the bolt was broken in half.. The engine weight was pinching the bolt head.. I jacked up the engine just slightly to relieve the pressure and the bolt finally cracked loose.

Jacking the engine up from the oil pan was scary though a breeze..
Using a 2x4, I drilled and chiseled out a channel to allow the oil pan drain plug to reside.
As I was jacking up the engine, I noticed the whole car was being jacked up, so I thought.
The issue was, since I have the car on ramps, as I was jacking up the engine, the suspension was just revealing. To counter that, I just used a second jack under the k-member with a block of wood, lifted the car until it was about to lift off the ramps. This created the suspension to "hang". Once this was done, jacking up the engine was nooo problem at all..

Installing mounts took some time.
Did what you all said.. One side at a time to keep alignment. The issue here was the passenger mount was in such bad shape, the engine was already out of alignment. I did what you said anyway. Worked on the drivers side first, while keeping the nut on the passenger side loose.. Driver mount came out and new one installed without any issues at all.. Took about 20 minutes. Having the headers off really gives you a ton of room to do this, considering I now have two jacks under the car creating no room at all to work. I installed the driver side, bolted it to the engine and k-member keeping them loose. Lowered the engine and tighten the engine bolts, keeping the large nut loose.
The passenger side is a different story and gave the most issue. Since the mount was basically collapsed, The engine had to be raise quite a bit since the old mount was collapsed and the driver mount was in, the engine was greatly tilted. I was then able to get out the mount.. Now the fun part started........ Since the new mount was "not collapsed", the engine now had to be tilted towards the driver side since you can only jack up the engine just so far. I used a 4 foot 2x4, placed it on the head between the spark plugs and levered it from the strut tower. I was able to lift and tilt the engine easily.. The PS mount went in with a little wiggling.. The only other issue I had was aligning the engine to have the DS mount boss nub go in the hole, but i finally got it in. The engine now sits where it should. I placed a level on the lower intake, since I have the upper intake off. The engine is now level left to right..

Trans mount went it successfully with no issues.
All bolts and nuts came off with ease. Since the old trans mount was collapsed and torn, The trans had to be lifted a little more than expected to achieve the correct height to get the new mount in.. The trans now sits level and matched to the engine.

THANK YOU ALL for all your experience, opinions and help with these mounts.

I've had my 87 Vert since 95 and it sat the past 10 - 12 years so I'm finally able to work on it and bring it back to life slowly and surly.
A restoration project on a budget.
 
Reactions: RaggedGT, Gs1987GT and Olivethefet

Olivethefet

I will own your nuts! LOL
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#19
  • Jul 10, 2020
  • #19
Just saw this. Glad you got the mounts replaced with minimal issues! Reading through this I was thinking, "Man if he had the upper half of the intake off he could just use an engine lift that goes across the finders to hold the motor up". Then at the end you said that you HAD the upper off. I had to drop the k member on my car last year and bought an engine lift from harbor freight. Cost less than $100 and was supper handy. It will be handy in the future as well. If you are planning on restoring the car you might find yourself needing to support the engine again in the future. Not saying you NEED one, but its something to think about if you find yourself in a similar situation in the future.
 

R82148V

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#20
  • Jul 10, 2020
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Olivethefet said:
Just saw this. Glad you got the mounts replaced with minimal issues! Reading through this I was thinking, "Man if he had the upper half of the intake off he could just use an engine lift that goes across the finders to hold the motor up". Then at the end you said that you HAD the upper off. I had to drop the k member on my car last year and bought an engine lift from harbor freight. Cost less than $100 and was supper handy. It will be handy in the future as well. If you are planning on restoring the car you might find yourself needing to support the engine again in the future. Not saying you NEED one, but its something to think about if you find yourself in a similar situation in the future.
Click to expand...
You know, I was looking for something like that, that goes on the inner part of the fenders to lift the engine but didnt know what you call them.. You say Harbor Freight? I definitely will check that out!!

Thanks, Olivethefet !
 
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