Drivetrain Manual Shifter moves up and down some.

[R82148V]

Hello,

I have a 1987 convertible that I have been restoring. Kept it basically stock.
I replaced the motor and trans mounts with the regular rubber mounts. Konis front and back. Full length SFC.
I dont drive hard at all. I've noticed the other day the shifter kind of moves up and down when going over a hump in the road or when accelerating.
The car shifts in and out of all gears just fine. Just the strange movement.

I know this might be a sign of loose trans mounting nuts or ripped trans mount I don't see how it could be ripped since I never drop the hammer or spin the tires. I more or less baby the thing.

Is this normal with rubber bushing? Is there supposed to be some movement?
Any ideas?

Thank you

 

[AeroCoupe]

Some movement yes but the trans mount and crossmember bushings are now 36+ years old so they could be rotted.

 

[Mustang5L5]

Some movement is necessary, but usually it's twisting or some vibration.

Physically moving up and down would have me inspecting engine and trans mounts

 

[R82148V]

I was a afraid you were going to say that.
I replaced the engine and trans mount 1 year ago and only have no more than 200 miles of normal cruising on them.
I'll get under there and see what the deal is.

 

[limp]

If your trans mount is new and checks out OK, check the bushings on the ends of the trans crossmember..

 

[R82148V]

If your trans mount is new and checks out OK, check the bushings on the ends of the trans crossmember..

Will do. When I was changing the trans mount, I only inspected the crossmember bushing but never replaced them since they looked ok. I bet you they are no good.

 

[AeroCoupe]

I would jack the motor up side to side and make sure you do not have a broken "new" motor mount as well or if any bolts fell out...

 

[limp]

When I restored the dodge pictured, I purchased some new Napa motor mounts.... Made in India... JUNK... Engine moved around like they were broken...
Open your hood, put car in reverse and power brake it slightly to see how much movement your motor mounts are allowing....
Newer JUNK parts are everywhere........

 

[rednotch]

When I restored the dodge pictured, I purchased some new Napa motor mounts.... Made in India... JUNK... Engine moved around like they were broken...
Open your hood, put car in reverse and power brake it slightly to see how much movement your motor mounts are allowing....
Newer JUNK parts are everywhere........

That's anchor for ya.... Pretty much the only source for alot of mounts these days then get repacked and rebranded. They where selling miss stamped vert mounts for these cars for years.. Made the motor lean hard to the passenger side lol.

 

[Mustang5L5]

Yup. Anchor is pretty much the only source for engine mounts for these cars, and many others. You used to be able to pick them up for $5 a side a few years back. Now they are $10 a side. What does that tell you about quality.


LMR sells them for $75 for the pair, with this note which always made me laugh.

 

[AeroCoupe]

I run Prothane mounts for the motor, trans and cross member. Not cheap but they have been in there a long time.

Engine Mounts:

Motor Mount - Ford Thunderbird - Prothane 6501

Ford Thunderbird Mustang Cougar Continental replacement Motor Mount made by Prothane. Lifetime Warranty. Free Shipping. Ships Immediately. Part Number 6501

www.prothanesuspensionparts.com

Trans Mount:

Transmission Mount - Ford Mustang - Prothane 61604

Ford Mustang Granada Cougar replacement Transmission Mount made by Prothane. Lifetime Warranty. Ships Immediately. Part Number 61604

www.prothanesuspensionparts.com

Cross Member Mount:

61603 | Transmission Crossmember Bushings Kit - Ford Mustang

Ford Mustang replacement Transmission Crossmember Bushings Kit made by Prothane. Lifetime Warranty. Ships Immediately. Part Number 61603

www.prothanesuspensionparts.com

 

[rednotch]

My beater has those... Swear the urethane is worse for that and idle vibrations... My shifter/ trans moves a decent amount to, has the prothane mounts on engine and trans with a g force cross member... Where on the car when I got it.. I like solid mounts on the engine, urethane for trans mounts and rubber on the cross member to frame rails... just haven't changed them on this one yet. ES owns prothane now. So out side of the vert vs hard top style mounts are same materials.


There's a few made in China vert mounts now but haven't tried any... Probably better then the India anchor ones though, the last set I got where repacked anchor duralast lifetime lol and slammed the header and intake into the passenger side frame rail, that's how off the stamping for the left side was they went back and a set of solids went on.

 

[R82148V]

Ok I checked the motor and trans mounts which are new rubber style. Everything is tight and from what I can see as solid as they can be.
Tried to pry a little here and there, I couldn't manifest any movements. I checked my spreadsheet and it looks like I installed Westar motor and trans mounts.

Last I checked the crossmember bushings. I think this might be where my issue is.
I put a mega large screwdriver above where the bushings are and there's a ton of movement. Almost as if the bushings shrunk. Don't know if this is normal bushing movement but it seems excessive.

Since I have rubber engine and trans mounts, should I stay with rubber bushings or go prothane for the bushings only?

 

[limp]

Since I have rubber engine and trans mounts, should I stay with rubber bushings or go prothane for the bushings only?

My past experience was mostly chevy with some mopar mixed in.. These cars all bolted up directly to the frame with no bushings so I do not see the need for softer bushings in this area.. I would go with some urethane bushings which would give you a more solid connection... I used them in my car......

 

[R82148V]

My past experience was mostly chevy with some mopar mixed in.. These cars all bolted up directly to the frame with no bushings so I do not see the need for softer bushings in this area.. I would go with some urethane bushings which would give you a more solid connection... I used them in my car......

Seems like thats all you can find too... Prothane and polyurethane.

 

[Mustang5L5]

Ok I checked the motor and trans mounts which are new rubber style. Everything is tight and from what I can see as solid as they can be.
Tried to pry a little here and there, I couldn't manifest any movements. I checked my spreadsheet and it looks like I installed Westar motor and trans mounts.

Last I checked the crossmember bushings. I think this might be where my issue is.
I put a mega large screwdriver above where the bushings are and there's a ton of movement. Almost as if the bushings shrunk. Don't know if this is normal bushing movement but it seems excessive.

Since I have rubber engine and trans mounts, should I stay with rubber bushings or go prothane for the bushings only?

The X-member shouldn’t move.

I think all you’ll find is poly bushings for that spot.

 

[R82148V]

The X-member shouldn’t move.

I think all you’ll find is poly bushings for that spot.

I placed an order for the Prothanes. Should be here on Friday.
If the x-member shouldn't move then this is the problem for sure. As of right now, the x member is moving all over the place and very loose while using the original bushings as if the rubber shrunk. Shouldn't be difficult getting them out. Just don't know how hard it will be installing the polys.
Any recommendations on how to?

 

[Mustang5L5]

I don't remember them being too difficult to install. I have my stocker in my basement with the poly bushings in it (i have a stifflers now) and pretty sure they just insert in and out without much fuss.

I think the challenge will be because evetything is bolted up, trying to lower each side down enough to install the bushings.

 

[limp]

I placed an order for the Prothanes. Should be here on Friday.
If the x-member shouldn't move then this is the problem for sure. As of right now, the x member is moving all over the place and very loose while using the original bushings as if the rubber shrunk. Shouldn't be difficult getting them out. Just don't know how hard it will be installing the polys.
Any recommendations on how to?

Worse scenario is unbolting it from the transmission and removing it from the car to inspect and install the bushings on your workbench. Do the new bushings come with new bolts?? If not a good time to clean up ( wire wheel) the old ones and install some silicone grease on them...
I used a stifflers also as my old one was single hump for single exhaust..
I bolted it up to 0ne side, swung it up to the other side bolted it, then bolted the transmission to it... Super easy..

 

[AeroCoupe]

Use some scotch-brite pad and clean up the ID of the tube where they will install. Use the supplied (hopefully they come with some) grease and they should pop right in. Been running the stock crossmember with them for a looong time and zero issues.

I ended up grinding the tack welds off mine as it made life a lot easier installing the cross member and getting things to line up. If you do this then be sure to paint things as it will rust quick.