motormounts

You could modify stock ones, as many here have done, and simply put a bolt through the mount to make it 'solid'. Do a search for motor mounts and you'll see plenty of discussions on how to modify them.

It's not as easy as putting "a bolt through the mount to make it 'solid.'" The problem is (if you have a 67 or 68) that the bottom of the motor mount sits flat on the frame part of the mount (point A on the figure). If you place a bolt though it, it will hit against the mount and therefore not fit. I found this out when I tried to turn my new set of motor mounts into solids (had broken 3 sets so far ). I ended up fabbing my own little design of a solid adjustable motor mount.

Here is a very rough drawing of what I ended up doing. It requires more work, but I have yet to break a mount, and had NO increase in vibration transmitted from the engine to the frame.

You get a ½ bolt or whatever size you would like to use along with a nylon nut. Drill a hole though the mount to allow this bolt just enough room to fit (the rubber between the mount will make it a tight fit as it won’t drill out all the way). Cut the head off the bolt and any extra so that the bolt sticks out about ½” past point C on the mount. Place the bolt though the mount so that it is recessed about 1/16” to 1/8” past point A. Then with a MIG or TIG welder, weld the bolt to the mount. Grind any bead that bulges out so that point A on the mount is flat. Install the nylon nuts on, but DON’T TIGHTEN THEM!!! This will come into play when you go to install your new mounts and will need the mount to stretch a little to fit. Once the new mounts are bolted to the frame and engine, tighten the nuts down until sung.

The beauty of this design is that the more you tighten the nut, the more you compress the rubber between the mount, and the less flex allowed in the mount. The bolt and the weld are very strong, because they are placed under tensile force, which both the bolt and weld can withstand the best. The other advantage is that you still have rubber between the mount, so vibration is prevented (as I said above, I noticed NO INCREASE IN ENGINE VIBRATION TO THE FRAME!!!) If you want it tighter/looser, just tighten/loosen the bolt with a wrench (which will fit, meaning you don’t have to take the mount out).

This mount is very strong, provided that you laid down some quality welds. If you have the tools and the ability to do this, then this is a great way to make a very nice solid adjustable motor mount. Whada think???

A=Top part of mount
B=Rubber
C=Bottom part of mount



-Shaun

6Stang7 said:

Whada think???

Click to expand...

I only got one question...

...how much do you charge?

would i need any special motor mounts for a 351c in a 68 stang??

Let's see who buys tcp maybe I'll take off my tcp motormounts and get some fabbed up if I don't respect the company. I would only do it with the extra holes for early '67's as well as the notch that they need for latter blocks

how did you keep the mount cool while you welded it? I am guessing you ran a quick bead, then let it cool down then attacked it again.

with my luck the rubber would melt off...

I still have to put the motor in my 67, I didnt even think to check to see if the frame to mount bolt would clear the 1/2" bolt.

I might have to go fire up the wire feed

hungrymonkey said:

I still have to put the motor in my 67, I didnt even think to check to see if the frame to mount bolt would clear the 1/2" bolt.

Click to expand...

HM, I'm betting it wont. I did that using some grade-8 bolts and had to gring the head off the bolt to make it fit. In fact I had to grind off more than half of it, the frame mounts don't sit "ON" the frame but are pretty darn close. After looking at it I was not comfortable with the amount of material I had removed.

What I did was I took 2 7/16 flat head bolts. You take and drill your clearance hole then take a big 82 degree countersink and countersink it enough that the head is flush or just below the surface. Worked great!

you can have these for $15.00 plus $5 for shipping.

hope that helps with the frame mounts...............

read the discription though about the missing piece.

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=2467302876&category=10076

Edbert said:

I only got one question...

...how much do you charge?

Click to expand...

Right now my MIG welder is broken. However, if you really want me to fab a set of these up for you then let me know and I'll pm you when it's working again. As for cost, I'd just charge you for parts (motor mounts and bolts) and shipping.

-Shaun

hungrymonkey said:

how did you keep the mount cool while you welded it? I am guessing you ran a quick bead, then let it cool down then attacked it again.

with my luck the rubber would melt off...

I still have to put the motor in my 67, I didnt even think to check to see if the frame to mount bolt would clear the 1/2" bolt.

I might have to go fire up the wire feed

Click to expand...

I did have a problem with some of the rubber catching fire. Like you said though, I ran quick beads (not too quick though cause you do want to get some good penetration) and then let it cool down. However, I didn't notice any damage to the rubber between the mount, and would assume that only the rubber directly in contact with the bolt melted......that is if any rubber melted in the first place. Any more question from anyone feel free to ask.

-Shaun

Fomocohipo said:

would i need any special motor mounts for a 351c in a 68 stang??

Click to expand...

I'm not really sure, but if they are, then post a pic of them up and maybe we can figure something out here on how to make then into some solid adjustable.

-Shaun

I said this in a post a few months ago in a diffrent thread:
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Some thing that you might want to consider doing to fix your motor mount problem that is way cheaper than an aftermarket mount and is completly invisible when you open the hood is modifying the original mount.

If you remove the mount and drill through the sandwich of metal - rubber - metal you can insert a bolt through the hole. THey make bolts that have a compltely flat head on them (like 1/8 inch thick and 1.5 inch diameter). If you just grind out a little bit of metal on the side of the mount that mates agianst the frame mount the bolt head will recess in far enough that there wont be any clearance issues in regaurds to the mount mating to the frame.

Then you can either back two nuts against each other on the back side or use a bunch of loctite or weld the nut to the bolt. But remmeber you are only tightening the nut far enough that it wont allow the rubber to strech any farther than when the engine is resting on it. (basicly hand tighten the nut against the mount.)

I have done this on my mustang and so has another friend of mine and it works great and there is not really any way of telling it was done.

67coupe351w said:

THey make bolts that have a compltely flat head on them (like 1/8 inch thick and 1.5 inch diameter).

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Who is "they" and where might "they" be acquired?

"They" is some random bolt manufacturer. The hardware store had them in basicly all sizes.

I don't follow the "1/8 inch thick and 1.5 inch diameter" part. The diameter the same as the thickness of the bolts.

Yeah, I guess my comminucation skills leave alot to be desired.

I found the bolt im refering to in the libraray of my solid modeler so Thats waht the pic is. It is called a Flat Countersunk Head Elevator Bolt according to Autodesk Inventor.

Im not sure but I think the hardware store workers would look at you funny if you went asking for that. But you should be able to tell what the bolt looks from the picture. Hope that helps