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  • 1979 - 1995 (Fox, SN95.0, & 2.3L) -General/Talk-
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mountaineer oil pan q's.

  • Thread starter Thread starter millhouse
  • Start date Start date Sep 25, 2004

millhouse

Founding Member
May 14, 2002
1,985
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46
Simpsonville, SC
Sep 25, 2004
#1
  • Sep 25, 2004
  • #1
Well, I found a decent deal on a 98 mountaineer long block (including intake) with 38k miles for $500 .

Anyways, I'll be pulling the stock intake off for my eddy performer. The swap seems pretty simple...but I have a question about the oil pan.

Are clearance issues the only reason to swap my double hump pan with the stock mountaineer? Are there any other benifits?

The mountaineer pan is in much better condition than my stocker unit. I have a tubular k-member, so I'm thinking it my be possible to keep the current pan on the engine. Less part to buy for the oil pan means more parts to buy for the engine performance.
 

Michael Yount

Mustang Master
Apr 10, 2002
9,039
6
79
Charlotte, NC
Sep 25, 2004
#2
  • Sep 25, 2004
  • #2
Pull the Mountaineer pan and check - you're probably going to have to use the pump and/or pickup tube off of your old block. I don't think the pickup tube on the Mountaineer will work with the double-hump pan off the Stang application; and the Mountaineer pan won't clear the crossmember. Also - be careful if you want to preserve the Mountaineer pan - they're cast and quite fragile. If you set the motor down on it (off the cherry picker) they're pretty easy to break.
 

millhouse

Founding Member
May 14, 2002
1,985
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Simpsonville, SC
Sep 25, 2004
#3
  • Sep 25, 2004
  • #3
Michael Yount said:
Pull the Mountaineer pan and check - you're probably going to have to use the pump and/or pickup tube off of your old block. I don't think the pickup tube on the Mountaineer will work with the double-hump pan off the Stang application; and the Mountaineer pan won't clear the crossmember. Also - be careful if you want to preserve the Mountaineer pan - they're cast and quite fragile. If you set the motor down on it (off the cherry picker) they're pretty easy to break.
Click to expand...


The only reason I think it might work is due to my aje tubular k-member. I'll just have to do some measureing I guess. I would prefer not to pull the pan off. It's just one more thing that I have to buy (new gasket), and is a pain swapping pans.

As far as the pan construction goes though...it definatley does not appear to be cast. It is painted black and looks to be stamped steel.
 

millhouse

Founding Member
May 14, 2002
1,985
0
46
Simpsonville, SC
Sep 27, 2004
#4
  • Sep 27, 2004
  • #4
TTT

I need to know if the oil pump will work from the mountaineer. I wont be using my old one due to the high mileage.
 

NKau

Founding Member
Dec 15, 2001
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0
37
Jefferson, WI
Sep 27, 2004
#5
  • Sep 27, 2004
  • #5
Assuming you will be using the same motor mounts (motor will sit at the same height) I'd measure the depth/length of the oil pan at critical areas and see how it compares to the stocker; should be able to figure out whether or not it will clear your k-member. Make sure the pan drain plug won't be getting blocked by anything either I'm assuming those mountaineers are rear sump?
 
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