Moving the Pitman Arm

Cobain03

Active Member
Aug 27, 2003
996
0
36
Lexington, Ky
as many of you may have heard, im having problesm with my tri y headers. some have suggested that my pitman arm is off balance or not installed right (i dindt install it)...so how would you go about moving it or whatever you do to hopefully solve my problem.

for those who have no clue whats goin on in my life...
installed tri y headers, my pitman arm hits the drivers side header and not allowing my to fully turn to the left.
 
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Changing steering geometry/design to get around your exhaust is a surefire application for the Darwin Award.

You can only install the pitman arm one way since it is keyed. Snap a pic, something is way off or your headers are junk (likely the case if you shopped on price).
 
are you sure the pitman arm is keyed so that it can only go on one way? Its been awhile since I had mine off, but I thought the shaft coming from the box just had splines on it? If it is keyed so that the PA can only be installed one correct way, then that can't be the cause of the problem. However, if it is not keyed, or even if it has more than one keyway, the PA could be installed a few teeth off which could possibly make it hit the header. If the PA was installed wrong, the car would be able to turn sharper one way than the other.
 
302 coupe said:
are you sure the pitman arm is keyed so that it can only go on one way? Its been awhile since I had mine off, but I thought the shaft coming from the box just had splines on it? If it is keyed so that the PA can only be installed one correct way, then that can't be the cause of the problem. However, if it is not keyed, or even if it has more than one keyway, the PA could be installed a few teeth off which could possibly make it hit the header. If the PA was installed wrong, the car would be able to turn sharper one way than the other.
It is keyed but it would be way off if you installed it wrong. I can't remember if there are 2 or 4 keys so if it were installed incorreclty, you would be either 1/4, 1/2, or 3/4 turns off. You simply have to center the steering wheel, center the wheels and locate the pitman in the correct orientation to line up with the drag link.

One theory... Mustangs have 4-5 turns lock-to-lock. It could be the pitman was intalled with only 1-1.5 turns from the side vs. 2-2.5 turns. This would explain why it is getting hung up. :shrug:
 
Here is a pic... I can see at least two primary grooves. Can't tell if there are four or not.

026pitman_arm_a.jpg
 
66P51GT said:
Here is a pic... I can see at least two primary grooves. Can't tell if there are four or not.

026pitman_arm_a.jpg

ya, it is keyed like that, even if you turned it around OR upside down it wont fit, i learned this when i did the front suspension on my 65 fb, basically, it only goes on one way. are power-steering/manual steering arms different??? I know there is a longer shelby pitman arm. Maybe previous owner just threw something that doesnt belong on there :shrug:
 
pics

snap some pics from various angles...see if there are part numbers...

I think something is amuck with your steering...could be wrong.

most all mustang parts vendors sell tri-y's and most all of them are made by pertronix who made mine...

I have had no problems...

Do you have power steering?

the pitman arm is diff on power steering??

I know you need the drop kit for the P/S and tri-y's

best bet...find a local mustang nut and have him look, compare to another mustang, or snap many pics from different angles.

just my .02

Ron
 
i have the drop bracket installed, me ad da are just clueless. we put the stang up on the lift today and looked at the arm. if we do move it more towards one side, wouldnt that make the other side loose steering?
 
questions

Where are you located?

is the p/s factory original?

do all the parts appear to be original?

Find someone with a mustang so you can compare...

I still really think something is amiss with your setup.

I would hate for you to spend more money on other headers to still have the same or similar problems.

besides uless you get jba shorties, or clippsters you loose ground clearance and possible starter problems/interferance with long tube headers.
 
Your engine could be sitting over to one side more than the other. I had the same problem with clearancing my exhause in relation to my starter, the pitman and the idler arms. I lifted the engine with the motor mounts loose and shifted it over away from what it was hitting and I have no problems now. Before the starter wire on my Barracuda would get caught between the center link and a strut rod and engage the starter while I was turning the wheel. Did the same thing. Good luck.
 
OK, IIRC they have 4 keys. I have one on the bench so I'll look tomorow. Also, something that hasn't been brought up, is it a regular pitman and ider arm or a quick steer version? The quick steers are longer and I have heard of interfereances. I have a quick steer version on the bench and a regular on the car. I could measure both and take pics tomorrow if you think it would help.
 
my suggestion

Take some pics...

post your city and ask if anyone is near you that may want a sunday drive to help out a fellow stangneter...

See what happens.

I garantee there are thousands of early model mustangs with tri-y's, and probaly 50% are from patriot/pertronix as most all the parts houses sell the same ones.

I still reiterate that there must be something amuck with your setup. I could be wrong, but seems to me either there is or you got a bad set of headers.

search under my username and I posted pics of mine when I got them. See if they look the same.

Ron
 
I had a similar problem when I put the front suspension back together on my 66. I had some help from a freind who usually works on GM cars. He installed the pitman arm while I was working on bolting the idler arm in place.

When we had problems turning the steering wheel from lock to lock, I crawled back under the car and discovered he had installed the pitman arm upside down.

Recheck your work, it may be installed upside down.
 
I don't think this is all that complicated unless there is a wrong part installed, since others have no problems with clearance...
1. Disconnect the pitman arm from the linkage.
2. Rotate the steering wheel from lock to lock and count how many turns it takes.
3. Center the pitman arm using the steering wheel. (if it's 3 turns, turn it 1 1/2 turns) Don't worry where the wheel ends up for now.
4. Use something to "lock" the steering wheel so it doesn't move.
5. With the car on the ground, test fit the linkage to the pitman arm. (I'm almost certain it won't line up)
6. Straighten the front tires/wheels by hand (using a string to the back wheels)
7. Loosen the adjusting sleeves on the tierod ends and adjust the linkage until the center link lines up with the pitman arm and install it.
8. Recheck straightness of tires/wheels and tighten adjusting sleeves.
9. Remove steering wheel and reindex so it is straight.
10. Recheck clearance lock to lock.
Hopefully that will have taken care of it.
Let us know.
 
That's all too much work! If you get your steering geometry screwed, you'll make an already poorly handling car, undriveable.

Just take a ballpeen hammer and put a small dent in the header, so the Pitman Arm will clear. Its not rocket science, it doesn't effect performance, and can't be seen unless unless some anal techie is crawling around, under the car... in which case you should simply start the car and drive over him.

This problem has been around since 1965 and the fix has always been the same... don't over-engineer the fix.