MSNS-E (high_res) with ls2 COP's

Some of you may have already seen my post on this over at turbomustangs...but I figured I'd still post it here for those who don't venture there.

Here is what I've found to be the new "easiest" method to get the board up to par. To start off, if you have done the TFI mod to the board...you'll have to undo some of them.

I removed the 1k resistor in D2 and replaced it with a jumper.
I removed the jumper IGBTOUT to IGN.
I removed the 330Ohm resister lead of R26 to IGBTIN
I removed the xg1 to xg2 jumper
I removed the wire from D14 to the IGN jumper
I removed the 1k resistor from s12 to the IGN jumper

I then added all of the VR mods...

I Jumpered VRIN to TACHSELECT
I Jumpered TSEL to VROUT (This may need to be VROUTINV depending on the VR sensor).

Next up was the adding the 5v pull up to the - legs of d14, d15 and d16 as seen here (using a 1k resistor instead of the 750 though)...



I also threw a NPN on the proto area with the emitter going to ground, collector going to spr3 (with a 1k resistor followed by 5v in-line) and the base going to the bottom of r1 with a in-line 1k resistor. This completes the 4 outputs required for wasted spark COP.

Here is the circuit needed to enable the stock tach to function properly. I've tested this out, and it works great. The relay is used for it's coil only.

View attachment 226052

With the “to tacho” being the input to the vehicles tachometer and the “to selected pin on the pcb” to a spare pin not currently used (js0, js1 etc. selectable in megatune).

The appropriate dwell settings for ls1/ls2 coils can be found here: Megasquirt Sequencer Coils

And the wheel decoder settings can be found here. MSnS Extra Ignition Hardware Manual

I mounted my sensor (as you'll see below) where it was aligned to the number 5 tooth (the 5th tooth CCW from the missing tooth). Whatever tooth you decide to align on, there is a simple spreadsheet found here... http://www.msextra.com/doc/ms1extra/MS_Extra_Software_Manual_files/wheeldecoder.xls ...which allows you to input your sensor location and provide you with the proper settings for megatune/tuner-studio.

I had to open up the holes a bit for the larger 5.0 bolt pattern.



Here you can see how it interfaces with the balancer. You'll notice I had to open up the center hole a bit too.



Here is the stack without the balancer machined down. The pilot of the balancer should be somewhat flush with the pulley....something that was fixed.



To fix this condition and bring the balancer out the original position you need to compensate for the thickness of the 36-1 wheel.



Here you can see the scribe line I used for reference. I myself used an angle grinder which was a royal PITA. The carquest guy wanted $75-$100 to machine the damn thing down.



Here is a pic of the spacers I used to mount the VR sensor bracket and bring it out to the trigger wheel. It's a simple NPT nipple from the hardware store.



This next picture you can see the bracket I made along with the threaded rod, spacers and VR sensor mounted. The sensor holes in the bracket I drilled oversized to allow some fine positioning of the sensor. The feeler gauge is .032 and is what I used to locate the sensors distance to the teeth.



Here is everything tightened back down.



A reference picture of the old dizzy...



A side by side of the old dizzy with the explorer cam sensor. I just happened to save the off of a longblock I picked up a few years back.



The new sensor/oil pump where the dizzy once resided.



Next up will be wiring the coils and locating them in the engine bay.

Ok, got the coils/brackets mounted. I had to temporarily remove the sway bar to gain clearance for positioning...and ultimately, getting some shielding to protect the coils from water will be an immediate necessity.

Here is the passenger side coil bracket location (as seen from underneath)...





And here is the same side from above...





Here is the drivers side from below...



Here is a pic of the ls2 plug wires...



They worked out great on the passenger side as-is, but on the drivers-side I needed to get some 90* boots on em. Luckily I had my spare burnt wires which already had the boots...so I simply bent the straight ls2 connector to the 90* and slid the new boot on.







I'll need to do one more on the number 5 cyl...as you can see, the wire strays too close to the primary.



The number 8 cyl has enough clearance with the straight boot...and will not actually work with my configuration and a 90* boot from below.


Next up...wiring the coils to the squirt and testing out the spark. :2thumbs:

My grinding job on the balancer just wasn't close enough. I had a slight wobble on the 36-1 wheel which was throwing things off.

Also, I had originally snagged the two center wires off of the TFI plug as it was my understanding they were both 12v start and run. Well, one wasn't....and I didn't figure it out right away. I had then spliced into the one that was good....which wreaked havoc. My driver’s side coil bank started firing erratically with the key turned to the on position (not running). Well, I had originally put on a 1uf capacitor on each bank...and when I tied the 12v+ together the extra capacitor was jacking things all to hell. I would have thought it would have been fine...but apparently not!

On top of all of this, I was trying to figure out the polarity on my VR sensor using tunerstudio. Well, I had a hell of a time getting the proper signal which is how I found everything else was F'd. What it finally took to get a decent reading in tuner studio was (on top of all of the above), to borrow a battery charger/starter in order to get enough juice to turn the motor over long (and quick) enough. Also, be sure if you have your plug wires hooked that they are NOT arcing on anything. Mine were dangling down and the arc's were causing enough noise in the system to cause crazy cranking resets in tunerstudio.

Also, when using VROUT (not VROUTINV) and a 96 taurus pigtail the grey wire is the VR+ while the Blue is the VR-. Or, when looking into the sensor body with the clip on top, the VR+ is the pin on the right.

Here is a vid with everything up and running... YouTube - MVI_0377.AVI

liljoe07 said:

Yep, on the TFI ones start voltage for timing retard. Seen that have many guys chase their tail. Basically it would hold timing in retard all the time.

Thats a lot of work. Good job

What board is in the first post?

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Thanks! It's a MS1 pcb v3.0 main board.

liljoe07 said:

MegaSquirt. Maybe if I would read, Id have known that. Better put some gas in that thing. LOL

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Lol, seriously....it's running on fumes!