Much Help Needed

Fireman255

New Member
Apr 2, 2005
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:shrug: : So my car was running perfectly with stock 2bbl and intake.

Here is what I have done: Performer RPM intake and Edelbrock 1405 600 Cfm carb.

Here is my problem: When I shift into gear the car will die hard unless I push on the throttle when I shift and even then it runs rough and wants to spudder. When I am stopped at an intersection in gear it wants to die unless I throttle up.

So...... what the hell did I do wrong, Friends say it is timed and has enough vaccume.

The car is a 66 with a 289 and newly rebuilt C-4 auto. The above modifications are the only I have performed on the engine.

Can someone help me or do I need to give up and go see a mechanic? :bang:

Thank You
 
If the engine idles high but still dies when put into gear then look for a vacuum leak. Did you do the installation yourself. If so then look at the front and rear manifold end gaskets, did you use the end gaskets in the box or did you use silicone. I would use a 1/4" bead of silicone because it seals better and wont slip as does the end gaskets. When you installed the carb did you use the correct base gasket and did you plug the extra ports in the carb that you dont use,,, if any. The ported vacuum port on the carb goes to the distributor vacuum advance, this is a port that has no vacuum at idle but when you increase rpms you should have vacuum. The full vacuum port is about a 5/16" or 3/8 line that goes to the PCV valve or brake booster. The easy way to find a vacuum leak is to get some carb cleaner spray and spray it around the base of carb and around the end seals on the manifold. When the engine changes RPMs you have found a leak. like I said before, most vacuum leaks come from the mainfold end seals, check those first.
 
TOM B said:
If the engine idles high but still dies when put into gear then look for a vacuum leak. Did you do the installation yourself. If so then look at the front and rear manifold end gaskets, did you use the end gaskets in the box or did you use silicone. I would use a 1/4" bead of silicone because it seals better and wont slip as does the end gaskets. When you installed the carb did you use the correct base gasket and did you plug the extra ports in the carb that you dont use,,, if any. The ported vacuum port on the carb goes to the distributor vacuum advance, this is a port that has no vacuum at idle but when you increase rpms you should have vacuum. The full vacuum port is about a 5/16" or 3/8 line that goes to the PCV valve or brake booster. The easy way to find a vacuum leak is to get some carb cleaner spray and spray it around the base of carb and around the end seals on the manifold. When the engine changes RPMs you have found a leak. like I said before, most vacuum leaks come from the mainfold end seals, check those first.

Yes I did install it, I did use RTV on the ends. I just tried spraying pen-oil on on all poss leaks.

How do I know if the vaccume deal on my dist is still good?? :bang:
 
Tom, an incorrecty sealed end gasket will leak oil and make a mess, but since it is not directly related to intake runners per se, it should not have a major effect on drivability. End gaskets seal the crankcase. You could install an intake with no end seals or RTV at all and still not have an intake leak. It's just a lifter valley cover.
 
I looked at it today. all vacuume lines are either plugged or where they are supposed to be.

:shrug:


It idles around 1500 rpm's when its in park, then when he puts it in D it dies like it has a vacuume leak.

Its been awhile since I have had to work on a SBF, but is there a line from the carb to the valve cover cap? I cant remember where mine went to. I think It went to the PCV into the carb. (I really need to get my cars to my house so I can start working on them again.)

It might be a carb tuning issue. I dont know how edelbrock carbs are out of the box.


Mikey, you should come over and we can scew with it again. Or drive it to work and I will come by without kiddo and dick around with it.
 
When its out of gear does it rev okay? If it does it may be more tranny related. A buddy had a problem like that with his 350 Chevy with an Automatic. ... I'm trying to remember what finally fixed it.... I remember it was frustrating all of us.. we played with the timing and looked all over for vacuum leaks.. ....

Check your tranny oil recently? Be sure thats good.


.
 
The 1405 comes with a timed and full vacuum ports. If you hooked the distibutor up to the full port then timed the engine to say 10 then you will be at full advanced already at idle. you should have the distributor vacuum hose hooked to the timed port on carb, and when you time it, plug the hose so you dont get a false reading. Test you distibutor vacuum pod to see if it works or is stuck.
To do this take off the cap and rotor and suck on the hose, you should see the arm pull back on the advance plate.
 
Ha Ha Ha

so she purrs like a kitten. a guy from work walked right up and stuck his finger in a 3/8" hole I forgot to plug. It was in the manifold right below the carb. Oops :lol: :damnit: :hail2:
 
Max Power said:
See how smart we are?

How could you not hear that?
there was no whistling or sucking noise.

at idle it sounded fine, then when It was in gear it just died.

I missed it, and that was what I was looking for. I havent seen it, but I am pretty sure its the intake, opposed to the carb.

chock it up to expierance i guess. :D