Multiple Issues With 93 Mustang

Using highly flammable liquid or gas to find leaks isn't a good plan. The best tool is squirt can of motor oil. It is a little messy, but it won't flash fire and burn your eyebrows off...

If the car idles well enough to do a cylinder balance test, you may not have vacuum problems. A vacuum gauge is the best tool to find low vacuum. You should see 16.5"-18" at 650-750 RPM and 18"-20" at 1000 RPM.

What kind of vacuum reading and compresssion test results did you get?

Those numbers seem really high. While doing the compression test, did you have the throttle blade opened up? (I've always been told that to do a proper compression test, the throttle needs to be opened up) If not, do the test over again with it opened up and see if your numbers drop down. On a good motor I would really only expect them to be around 120.

Edit: Also, I would just jump the solenoid with the key off. This way you won't be pumping in excess amounts of fuel while the throttle is opened up all the way.

The compression test numbers you got are good enough for the car to run without major problems. How does the engine respond when you drive the car? Will not move under its own power? Missing at high or low speeds? Surge or bucking at some speeds?

Did you test the voltage coming off the O2 sensors?

I did not see if your H pipe had cats or not. No cats would account for the stinky gas smell in the exhaust.

You may want to list or restate the problems you are still having since this post has gotten past the 1 page mark. It' hard to remember what problems you are still having since you have been busy fixing things.



Get a mechanical oil pressure gauge & use a tee fitting to plumb it in with the existing oil pressure gauge. You can get a pressure gauge from Ace Hardware or some other home supply store and mount it under the hood if all you want to to is verify the function and accuracy of the stock gauge.

Mechanical oil pressure gauge installation..
1.) Remove old pressure sender. It is located down by the oil filter and has 1 wire on a push on screw connector.
2.) Install ¼” pipe tee fitting with a short ¼” nipple on the place where you removed the oil pressure sender.
3.) Install the original oil pressure sender back in one of the tee ports.
4.) Install the gauge line restrictor in the remaining port of the tee.
5.) Connect the flex tubing or hydraulic hose to the gauge restrictor. Be sure to route the tubing or hose away from the exhaust manifolds. Be sure to either use hydraulic hose or oil and heat resistant flex tubing for the pressure line. Do not use copper tubing for the connection to the gauge restrictor or engine. Over a period of time, the vibration will work harden the tubing and cause it to crack and fail.
6.) If the gauge is going to mount under the hood, connect it to the end of the hose or flex tubing. Use some Tie-wraps to secure the gauge and its plumbing to the wiring harness on the driver’s side inner fender.
7.) If the gauge is going to mount in the passenger compartment you get to find a place to run the tubing through the firewall. I suggest that you pick your spot from the inside since that is the area with the most difficult access. Do not run the tubing through the exact same hole as the steering shaft. It will tangle up with the steering shaft and cause major problems.
8.) Install the gauge inside the car in the location of your choosing. Connect the pressure line to the gauge and secure it out of the way of moving parts with Tie-wraps.
9.) Be sure to ground the gauge lighting wire to clean, shiny bare metal. Connect the other wire from the gauge lighting to a light blue/red wire on the radio wiring harness. There are 2 connectors in the radio wiring harness, but only one of them has the light blue/red wire you need for gauge illumination. Solder the gauge lighting wire to the light blue/red wire on the radio harness and cover the soldered joint with heat shrink.

How to solder like a pro - Ford Fuel Injection » How To Solder Like a Pro a must read for any automotive wiring job.

Be sure to use a gauge restrictor fitting in the pressure line going to the gauge. The restrictor will prevent all of the engine's oil supply from ending up on the pavement before you can stop it if the gauge line fails. I had a gauge line rupture, and the restrictor fitting saved my engine from serious damage.

i have a 95 mustang w-codes 157,158,181,189,211,212,172&136 i a llready changed 0/2 sensors mas air flo sensor complete tune up with dist & ign module coil, runs good for 10 min then dies or just pops & sputters I don know what else to do HELP PLEASE!!!!!

7kids said:

i have a 95 mustang w-codes 157,158,181,189,211,212,172&136 i a llready changed 0/2 sensors mas air flo sensor complete tune up with dist & ign module coil, runs good for 10 min then dies or just pops & sputters I don know what else to do HELP PLEASE!!!!!

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First of all, start your own thread. It's bad manners to highjack someone else's thread. When someone posts a reply, it's hard to tell if it applies to you or the person who originally started the thread.

There is a 94-95 specific tech section where your post needs to be.

79MercCapri93 said:

i havent had a chance to work on the car lately, but hopefully ill be able to soon.

Currently, i added marvel mystery oil to the mtor which seemed to help a little bit, but the car has a shake around 1,000 rpms and if its above that or below it it smooths out. The car is overheating still, even after replacing the radiator and adding a 160 degree thermostat. I replaced the air injection hose that goes to the tube that runs down to the catalytic convertors, and pulled off the tube that runs between the heads and cleaned that out real well. The big things right now are the oil pressure gauge fluxuating ( havent had a chance to get an oil pressure gauge so i can tap in to verify if its just a guage or the motor itself), the car overheating, the slight shake, and even after replacing the O2 sensors, the car still has a smell to it as though its running lean. Not sure if any of these issues could be related to clogged catalytic converstors or not, but it had been mentioned to me by a guy who ended up replacing his motor just to find out the cats were clogged all to hell and the motor was in fact good.

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Check that the fan clutch is still good and put a new radiator cap on it if you didn't when you installed the new radiator.

Yeah I second the fan clutch and radiator cap for your overheating issues...regarding the smell of your exhaust...do you have cats or an off road mid pipe?