Mustang 5.0 88 Problem After Cam Install

[Huot 5.0]

Hey guys, I'm new to this forum and I'm french so please ignore my bad english. First of all I have a 88 mustang with gt40p heads, explorer intake, 70mm tb, 190lph fp, 24 injectors, maf conversion, cai, magnaflow catted h-pipe and no muffler. Recentry I just try to add some power to my combo and I took a xe270hr14 cam. After installation I went to a test drive, the car was idling very well, and all the time i depress clutch pedal the car is stalling and the car doesn't to have low end torque and not a very strong overall power. I do some diagnose and found nothing so I suspect that the timing chain may be off one tooth so I remove my front cover to see that the timing is dot to dot. After some call and some searching I was thinking it was the camshaft so I change it for a b-303. The car start up and idle very fine and when I went to drive the car act exacly the same with no low end torque...... Now I have try several thing like check for vacc leak recheck all the sensor and the ignition timing and I found nothing.
I really need help and the only 2 thing that I suspect is first the maf, because it's the stock one and it's very small and the second things is that I only need a good tune or chip
Please leave your thought about that

 

[5point0stang88]

What value springs you running? And what ratio roller/rockers
I am thinking your valves need attention as well as timing. But first Rent a timing light and see where you're at

Sent front my SGS3 Epic 4GLTE Touch

 

[Huot 5.0]

I am running some crane spring and stock rocker

 

[jrichker]

Dump the codes: Codes may be present even if the Check Engine Light (CEL) isn't on.

Dumping the computer diagnostic codes on 86-95 Mustangs

Revised 26-July-2011. Added need to make sure the clutch is pressed when dumping codes.

Codes may be present even if the check engine light hasn’t come on, so be sure to check for them.

Here's the way to dump the computer codes with only a jumper wire or paper clip and the check engine light, or test light or voltmeter. I’ve used it for years, and it works great. You watch the flashing test lamp or Check Engine Light and count the flashes.

Post the codes you get and I will post 86-93 model 5.0 Mustang specific code definitions and fixes. I do not have a complete listing for 94-95 model 5.0 Mustangs at this time.

Be sure to turn off the A/C, and put the transmission in neutral when dumping the codes. On a manual transmission car, be sure to press the clutch to the floor.
Fail to do this and you will generate a code 67 and not be able to dump the Engine Running codes.

If your car is an 86-88 stang, you'll have to use the test lamp or voltmeter method. There is no functional check engine light on the 86-88's except possibly the Cali Mass Air cars.

The STI has a gray connector shell and a white/red wire. It comes from the same bundle of wires as the self test connector.

89 through 95 cars have a working Check Engine light. Watch it instead of using a test lamp.

The STI has a gray connector shell and a white/red wire. It comes from the same bundle of wires as the self test connector.


WARNING!!! There is a single dark brown connector with a black/orange wire. It is the 12 volt power to the under the hood light. Do not jumper it to the computer test connector. If you do, you will damage the computer.

What to expect:
You should get a code 11 (two single flashes in succession). This says that the computer's internal workings are OK, and that the wiring to put the computer into diagnostic mode is good. No code 11 and you have some wiring problems. This is crucial: the same wire that provides the ground to dump the codes provides signal ground for the TPS, EGR, ACT and Map/Baro sensors. If it fails, you will have poor performance, economy and driveablity problems

Some codes have different answers if the engine is running from the answers that it has when the engine isn't running. It helps a lot to know if you had the engine running when you ran the test.

Dumping the Engine Running codes: The procedure is the same, you start the engine with the test jumper in place. Be sure the A/C is off, and clutch (if present) is pressed to the floor, and the transmission is in neutral. You'll get an 11, then a 4 and the engine will speed up to do the EGR test. After the engine speed decreases back to idle, it will dump the engine running codes.

Trouble codes are either 2 digit or 3 digit, there are no cars that use both 2 digit codes and 3 digit codes.

Your 86-88 5.0 won't have a working Check Engine Light, so you'll need a test light.
See AutoZone Part Number: 25886 , $10

Alternate methods:
For those who are intimidated by all the wires & connections, see Actron® for what a typical hand scanner looks like. Normal retail price is about $30 or so at AutoZone or Wal-Mart.

Or for a nicer scanner see Equus - Digital Ford Code Reader (3145) – It has a 3 digit LCD display so that you don’t have to count flashes or beeps.. Cost is $30.