MUSTANG II CLUTCH

The CAR ones are pricey and require machine work. The MDL ones are similar to factory and less than half the price. The only difference I noticed is the MDL uses the included shoulder bolts vs dowels for alignment. No machining required. They are kevlar as well. My spine is afu from disc disease and the clutch pedal is light. Not heavy at all like some performance clutches I have driven over the years. I have a late 80's chevy truck with the v6 and it's clutch is much harder to operate vs the mdl in my II.

I have over 500 miles on mine and have no complaints at all.

Autozone does not have a lifetime clutch for it?

I went with the CAR one. Because there was nothing else out there.
If there was the one from MDL available then I would have went that route instead. Simple replacement. No modifications.

I would be camping out down there at the zoner with my old clutch
I would be telling them how their books must be wrong and having them match something up
Course I have a commercial account and know the district manager
They should be able to figure something out once they get with corporate

Sad
There are more vehicles with your plant than just a 78 cobra
The old maverick grabbers had the same plant but possibly never a clutch?
When I see my district manager again I will ask him why the failure
Any one of the available LUK clutches or the McLeod ones should have a cross reference

The II's were not designed for a v8. Ford had to make them fit after the fact due to public backlash. II's were not designed nor had intentions to compete with camaros and firebirds. Their intended competition were celicas and later monzas. They were closer to a japanese or european car vs an american muscle car of the day. They only weigh 2800 lbs. The "car guys" could not grasp Ford returned the mustang to its roots. They demanded a v8 and the magazines of the time happily bitched and moaned about it's lack of hp.

Oil pan, bell housings, starter, starter location, engine mounts, rad4 flywheel/clutch or c4 flexplate/torque converter are all unique to the v8 II's. The standard v8 bellhousings of the era are too big for the tiny trans tunnel. The drivetrain sits 1" towards the passenger side so you can use the gas pedal. Wear too big of shoes and your foot gets hung up on the gas/brake pedals.

I bought 2 damn near complete rust free cars cheap. They were still in pieces because the previous owners could not grasp they have a few unique parts. Oil pan and mounts being the hardest to overcome. The one guy rebuilt the engine but threw away the worn out mounts when he pulled it. He bought multiple sets of motor mounts. None of them fit. I drug the car home, engine sitting lopsided in the engine bay. I used oem mounts and she runs today. Fluids and the correct engine mounts and I have a Mach I, freshly rebuilt v8 with a factory 4 speed for less than $1500.

Bummer
Sounds like I would be wanting to pull the carpet and dash to weld in a bigger tunnel
Is that possible?
Those old Camaros were similar in that 67 had smaller bellhousings than 68- 69
And you have to work like hell to get the bigger clutch parts on an early one
Some yofus welded a new tunnel in the 56 I own and it is too small to clear a 4 speed shifter
I am going to rob a bolt in tunnel from a Bronco and weld that in (they are big) and the bolt in will be nice
So what is the diameter of your clutch?

You can get a C6 or AOD to fit. Just depends on how big of a hammer you want to use. MDL even has a TKX kit for us. None of these are plug and play though.

If you just want to swap a clutch go to mdl. They also carry a lighter flywheel for us.

I used a T5 and rad4 bell. With the rad4 bell I am limited to mdl or CAR for clutches but no hammer was needed. I have 250-300hp. I don't do burnouts but I do launch it hard. The mdl clutch feel is good. I have zero complaints.

I believe our clutches are 9.5". Flywheel is 141 teeth.

Just wanted to put this out there for anybody still looking at this - the Spec clutch is the only one that works with the factory flywheel. The clutch kit from Modern Driveline works with their larger flywheel, but not the stock OEM flywheel. The cheapest option is to go straight for the Spec clutch, but either option works

Yes. But! I decided that the fork was really limited in travel. So I went with a Hydraulic. Really works great. Way better than a cable.
If you decide to stay with the cable you'll need to shim out the cable adjuster. And cut the spring on the cable off.