Mustang Keys

Owners msnual useless. All it says. Doesn't even mention the wallet key but mine is an '88 that it probably wasn't available

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My car has the original keys from 88.. Big oval door key...small square ignition key. My 88 van has original " gold " colored keys with small oval door and square ignition like the mustang.
 
Anyone remember when ignition keys especially were so simple, the switch accessible if it went bad, mounted low in the dashboard? Some were located on the left side of the steering column! Only one set of teeth on a key.

And fuses? Think my '65 had about 4, plus one or two circuit breakers. My '04 Explorer has a hundred! I failed back then, to see what was on the horizon someday before I croak. imp
 
I can remember not needing a key to start a car, the key switch had a 'lock' position. You could pull the key out in the off position, put it in your pocket and still start the car, if you turned the switch to the 'lock' position and pull the key then you could not turn the ignition.
I also remember a foot operated starter switch, early fifties chevy truck I think.
 
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I'm too young to remember that, but I'll tell you this. My previous Infiniti and current Taurus have keyless ignition and door locks and I don't think I could own another daily driver without that feature.

I've key keyless ignition cars for 12 years now and have yet to have an issue with it. I've even made my wife a believer when she borrows my car and is trying to load a newborn and toddler into the car while carrying a few bags and in a coat. No need to fumble for keys.

Factory Remote start that also turns on defrost and my heat/cooled seats is also another feature I can't do without now.
 
I can remember not needing a key to start a car, the key switch had a 'lock' position. You could pull the key out in the off position, put it in your pocket and still start the car, if you turned the switch to the 'lock' position and pull the key then you could not turn the ignition.
I also remember a foot operated starter switch, early fifties chevy truck I think.
Not too long ago, but maybe by chance. I thought the ignition key cylinder was broken, discovered by accident 1996 F-150 bought used, key removable from cylinder in OFF position, just as you say, turn it without key to ON and START. I didn't think Ford offered such an option, maybe they did! imp

EDIT: My Dad's '35 Ford had 2 foot operated switches, think the '49 Lincoln too, which replaced it, one energized starter, other high-beams. My '72 Ranchero STILL has the toe-bump high beams! imp
 
Your 96 truck had a worn out key switch, it was not an option then. I think they stopped using the lock ignition switch about 58 or 59 in chevys, don't know if ford ever used them
I suspected that was the case. Had never seen a Ford product do that ever. I had by then owned at least 50, but most were old era, badge-shaped key, inserted into the dashboard, LOL. imp
 
Y’all are making this WAY too complicated. The head of the key may be different, but the double cut, Z shaped shaft should be the same on small and large head keys. Why Ford included Big head keys doe years, I do not know. But unless you need more grip surface for arthritis or other physical issues, the small head keys are the standard replacement and weigh less. Less weight on a bunch of keys puts less strain on your ignition lock and let’s it last longer. These do not have an anti theft chip like most newer cars have. I have never heard of a Valet key for an EEC IV. From what I remember from the wiring schematics, I doubt that option exists. Remember, this is pre 1987 computer tech, and body module computers are blessedly absent from our cars!

The question that is probably more important to the original poster is - does Ford have the key codes punched on the ignition lock cylinder and door cylinders? My 60’s GM’s do, but I have never looked on the Mustang or other Fox bodies. That would make a factory French key very simple for an actual locksmith.
If not, any Good locksmith can use the key, caliper and a code book to figure out how the new key should be cut. And if the key is really damaged or missing, the good locksmith can use the lock pins to punch a new key to factory specs.
One of my cars had only keys that were copied enough that blank placement errors had added up. They had to be pulled out a bit to work. The locksmith measured, checked the book or cards, and punched a pair of keys that worked like new.