My 1994 GT Mustang Aode to T5 Conversion w/PICS!

02 281 GT said:

Yeah, IIRC, the 4-cyl T-5 has a 3.97:1 1st as opposed to the V8's 3.25 (?). I don't remember the exact number. However, I do believe that the 4-cyl internals aren't as strong as the V8 tranny internals. I can't remember where I read about that, but I'm pretty certain that's the case. My '86 has 3.55s along with the 4cyl tranny, and it would pull about 3k rpms between 65 and 70mph.

Click to expand...

reddy351 said:

Damn nice writeup!!!!

Actually, the "internals" are exactly the same, except for the gear ratios. Since the 4 bangers have 1st gear ratios that multiply by either 3.97/1 or 4.10/1, the torque INPUT that the trans can handle is lower. V8 trannies have either 2.95/1 or 3.35/1, so they don't have as much leverage to break internal parts of the trans.

Say you have a smallblock that produces 300# of torque. When you multiply that by 2.95, you are putting 885 # of torque through that gear set.

If you multiply the same 300# by 4.10, you are putting 1230# of torque through that gear set.

If the "max torque" that the gear material could safely handle was say 900#, then the max torque you could put into the gearset is about 215#. Which would be about the same torque through the material as the 2.95 gear and 300#.

Too "wordy"?

Click to expand...

The_Mustang said:

Well, I got all my parts rounded up so I figured I'd do alot of people a favor and document my progress on this swap.

I've done about 6 of these swaps so far (foxes and SN95's)so this will be cake for me.

For my swap, I'll be using a Fox T5 transmission and bellhousing. This is fine as long as you use bell and trans together from a fox. I do this because 94/95 parts are getting more scarce by the day and there's not alot of aftermarket support for items like transmissions and bellhousings, etc. Using Fox parts ensures that I'll have a much larger supply of new and used parts for the future. And I'll show in the end that the shifter isn't all that bad, matter of fact, after a few days with it you won't even notice it anymore. Also, there are little plates you can get to move the shifter handle back a little to compensate.

I'm also going to show how to use your automatic block seperator plate instead of locating and purchasing a T5 plate.

So, if you're looking into doing this swap, follow along and enjoy.

First, you'll want to get your car as high as possible. A lift is nice, but most of us don't have that luxury.



After I lifted the car up, I prepared to swap the pedals out. I highly recommend taking out the driver seat! If you try this with the seat in place, you're neck will be cursing you for days! There's 2 15mm nuts and 2 15mm bolts holding the captain's chair in place.







Man, is that carpet discusting! I'll have to rectify that situation before reassembly for sure. Look there! Found some money! I found a grand total of $1.76

Ok, with the seat out of the way you'll want to put a piece of cardboard over the studs or they'll stick right into your back! Not good times at all. Now, you'll want to go under the dash with a 8mm socket and remove the trim panel under the steering wheel. Once that is removed, there may or may not be a black steel shield behind the trim panel. Again, 2 8mm bolts hold it in place.

When the black shield is gone, you'll see a steel brace with a slight curve to it, and once again, 2 8mm bolts hold it on. After that is out of the way you can see exactly what you're working with.

Now, before you go under the dash you'll need to be prepared because once you're situated and comfortable under there, you're not gonna want to get back out to get tools. So here's a list of what to take with you:
Needle nose pliers
13mm short well socket w/swivel and extensions of various size
10 mm short or long well
3/8 Ratchet
Flat screwdriver
13mm Wrench
Assortment of Torx bits (can't remember if it's a T50 or T45)

Now get situated under the dash. First thing you do is make sure your steering is locked. Then you'll take the torx bolt out of the steering shaft/knuckle. Then remove the 13mm bolt holding the knuckle to the steering column. Now take the steering shaft that goes through the floorboard and push it down into the floor as far as you can get it, then remove the knuckle. Don't forget to remove the little floor vent elbow, it get's a little annoying! There's a spring and a disk with a bunch of little holes in it that will probably fall off the column shaft. Just remember how they go back on, disk then spring then knuckle.

Then, you'll see a yellow retainer clip holding the brake shaft/brake light sensor to the brake pedal. Pull the clip with needle nose and use your screwdriver to pry it off. Pay attention on how it all comes apart so you can get it all back together correctly. It seems kinda intimidating at first, but on the reassembly it'll come to you. Now, push in the retainer tabs on the sensor with the vacuum hose (cruise) and pull it away from the pedal assy. Tuck it back away somewhere. Then remove that little white plastic clip thing that's attached to the brake pedal itself. It'll get in the way of the next step if you don't!

Next, take your short 13mm and use it with your swivel and extensions and get the 4 nuts that hold the clutch pedal assy. to the firewall. Then get the 10mm bolt that goes through the top of the pedal assy. Now remove all the plugs and wiring that's still attached to the assy. You should be able to pull the assy free now. Take your time and it'll come right out.









Now that you have the pedals out it's time to get the 5 speed pedals ready to install. Do yourself a favor and purchase an aluminum double hook quadrant and firewall adjuster. However, DO NOT buy any aftermarket cables! They brake and are 99% of the time JUNK! Your choices for a cable are a new/used OEM cable or a Maximum Motorsports cable.

Here I have pictures of the stock crappy plastic self adjusting setup and with my new Steeda setup:







Now, get back under the dash with your clutch pedal assy. and manuver it into place. This will try your patients a little, but keep at it, it WILL go in! Then you'll be left with this:



The experienced SN95 guys will probably notice that my clutch pedal assy. is the wrong one, it's out of a 96 up car evidently. I can tell because there's no where to install the cruise control cancel switch! False advertisement on the part of the seller, failure to properly inspect the part on the part of the buyer! (no pun intended) Anyway, it'll work fine for me since I'm going to ditch my cruise anyway.

It's a good idea to leave the panels and pieces under the dash disassembled for now. Soon you'll be back in that area to remove the shift interlock device when you pull your shifter out.

Click to expand...