Ok, have you heard the one about the hippie and the nun?Man, this is quite the funny thread. Do continue KH, I need a good laugh.
A trurbo kit alone is 750, and even if I go over 500, and lets also not forget transmission which is about 500 and a bunch of other things to consider, even if i go over 500 the volvo head will give me limitless potential.
WTF are you talking about? You previously said we must all be crappy junkyard shoppers if we can't find better deals and now you are claiming all this 750 dollar turbo kit, 500 dollar transmission BS. Get a clue. MANY people have picked up COMPLETE 2.3 Turbo engines for less than 350 bux...hardly any pay more than 500. Alot of those even came with the transmission. If not, a T5 tranny only brings 50-150 bux anyway. So it's more like 450-500 bux can get you everything you need for the turbo swap...and can make 160-170hp at the wheels without any more cash. Spend another 150 bux on a boost controller, 3" downpipe, and cone filter and it can easily but 200-220hp to wheels...we're now at 600-650 dollars...your volvo head is looking like a better and better deal every day
LOL, omg man I am sry, I didn't mean to ruin your thread.Holy hell guys !!!
I started this thread thinking I was going to get some decent info, rather all I did was start a huge flame war !!!
Here's the deal. I've never built up an engine before. I don't care to swap it either. I just wanted to know how much power could be made with the stock engine if I beefed it up as much as possible, while still maintaining streetability. I also wanted to try something different.
For me, this is just a learning experience/fun project. I like simplicity and the 2.3L has that. It's 4 cylinder, small, easy to work on, good on gas, etc. I wanted to eliminate fuel injection and go carbed, because it's simpler than fuel injection and computers. I also like 4 cylinders because the small size means more space in the engine bay (easier to get fix stuff) and less weight.
I'm going to do this project and post my results. It will be a carbed 2.3L with all the work mentioned in the first post on this thread, and maybe a little more. I'm going to keep it as streetable as possible while still making as much power as I can. Probably use 4.10 gears if I can. I'm looking for a "lethal first gear" not a super high top end. After all this is a street car, and I'm not going to be doing 130mph to the grocery store.
When it's done, I'll have it dyno'd AND bring it to the track. After that I'll post my 1/4 mile times, and my dyno sheet, and we'll see how it turns out. As I said before, this is just a fun, different project. I'm not trying to set any records or "blow doors off" or anything like that. If I wanted a monster, I'd build a giant V8 with a supercharger and a bottle of giggly gas.
And before somebody says my gas mileage will suck with a carb, I don't think it'll be that big of a difference considering it's on a lightweight car with a 2.3L engine. And emissions are not even remotely a concern here where I live.
That being said, let's just keep it friendly and in perspective. I'm sorry if I started something.
Well, carbs are the only way to make any power, from what I've seen, so that's probably a good choice. Offy makes a 4 barrel intake, but you have to run a tiny little carb on it (390 cfm) so you might be better off sticking with a two barrel setup.
Also, FYI: You gotta have a Duraspark II ignition to run a carb on your car. I can't even remember what years/models have it, but you gotta grab one.
Back to boring out the engine. The stock bore is 3.780 right?
I've seen pistons at summitracing.com for the 2.3L 88 mustang that are 3.840.
So that's a .060 over. After that I wouldn't be able to bore at all correct? Or could I even bore it out that much? This engine being carbed, is definately going to have to be bored AND stroked to make any power. So is a .060 overbore possible?
And what would be the longest rods I could use? I'm thinking maybe just go take the rods and pistons out of a 2.5L ranger and use them. If not, I can always just buy the rods and pistons seperate. Like I said, there's not much of a time table or price limit on this project.
One thing you might consider, is building a bottom end that is power adder ready. When I was NA, I built a bottom end using dish turbo pistons. These were forged, and ready to take the abuse of nitrous or boost. Then, I milled the head to get the compression to make it a fun NA engine. I milled .090 and that gave me about 10:1 compression with the dish pistons. Then, when you want to go turbo, just swap heads
how did it work out? were the results for the n/a motor worth it?
One thing you might consider, is building a bottom end that is power adder ready. When I was NA, I built a bottom end using dish turbo pistons. These were forged, and ready to take the abuse of nitrous or boost. Then, I milled the head to get the compression to make it a fun NA engine. I milled .090 and that gave me about 10:1 compression with the dish pistons. Then, when you want to go turbo, just swap heads.
A trurbo kit alone is 750, and even if I go over 500, and lets also not forget transmission which is about 500 and a bunch of other things to consider, even if i go over 500 the volvo head will give me limitless potential.
That's a pretty good idea. That way I'll be able to enjoy my N/A power now, and when I get ready for the turbo, all my earlier work will REALLY shine through with the boost.
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