My 2000 Mustang Gt Grining Noise???

[James Roberts]

Recently my rear end locked up on me going about 70 miles an hour, it had never been change and due to crazy driving from previous owner i guess thats what happens. Anyway im fine, but my car was towed to a nearby shop who had done other work on my mustang so i trusted them. They ordered a rear end off a cobra.....put it in my car and it turns out that the gear ratio was a 4.10 So i was very excited. But when he test drove my car after putting fluids back in the rear end there was a VERY LOUD grinding noise. Like metal to metal when turning the wheel left or right. He said that it was my car stuck in some thing where both my tires move at the same time and it should go away. Well its been 3 days and it sounds as if its getting worse. I dont know what else to do and i dont know much about cars to actually do any work on it myself so i just joined this site to see if any of you guys could help! Thank you! Btw this is my first car i am only 19 years old :/

 

[Nater_Potater]

...so i trusted them... He said that it was my car stuck in some thing where both my tires move at the same time and it should go away.

"...both tires move at the same time..." says it has some form of limited slip center section (clutch pack or Detroit Locker). It would make sense with the 4.10 gears. While Detroit Lockers are somewhat harsh for the street, they most definitely should NOT be making grinding noises! I assume from your post that the shop did all of the work. They need to pony up and stand behind what they do, and that includes any new and/or used parts they install. That's one advantage to having a shop do the work for you, as it's now their baby. Keep after this one.

Nathan

P.S. 'Glad to hear you survived the locked-up rear end incident!

 

[squeak93]

Check the spyder gears for damage.

To do so jack the car up and support on Jackstands. (do not solely rely upon the jack only when working under it).

Remove the rear cover. (catch fluid in a pan). Look for chunks of metal or obvious damage to the spyder gears.

To remove sypder gears you can do it in or out of the car. Out is easier but involves removing more stuff.

To pull carrier:
Remove wheels on each side, brakes (calipers and rotors). Then in the rear remove the cross pin (8mm bolt iirc). Slid pin out and inspect. push axles in (if an abs car don't forget to remove the abs sensor on the back side of the axle flanges). Slide axles in, remove c clips, pull axles out. Then you can hammer out the s spring (big funky looking metal piece that the cross pin goes through) in order to fully inspect and/or remove the spyder gears.

If you want to do it on a bench you need to do all the above up until hammering the s spring out (you'll do that later) but you'll also need to remomve the main caps on each side. WARNING: They are side specific as are the shims under them. Do not mix it up. The carrier is also fairly heavy if working on your back so be careful.

Good luck.

 

[James Roberts]

"...both tires move at the same time..." says it has some form of limited slip center section (clutch pack or Detroit Locker). It would make sense with the 4.10 gears. While Detroit Lockers are somewhat harsh for the street, they most definitely should NOT be making grinding noises! I assume from your post that the shop did all of the work. They need to pony up and stand behind what they do, and that includes any new and/or used parts they install. That's one advantage to having a shop do the work for you, as it's now their baby. Keep after this one.

Nathan

P.S. 'Glad to hear you survived the locked-up rear end incident!

I appreciate it, i took the car back today and it was the differential?? Whatever that means, hes going to rebuild the rear end free of charge and it will be ready monday! Im really excited, i really like the 4.10 gears in my car

 

[Nater_Potater]

You couldn't ask for a better outcome. He's a keeper! 4.10 good!

 

[James Roberts]

Got it back yesterday and it drives like a dream. im going to stick with this guy!