My c6 is slipping in the stang how do I fix it?

How many miles on the trans? May just be time for a rebuild. Normal fluid for that trans is Type F. Not sure if you would benefit from the Mercon V that is out now. It helped my '96 stop shuddering.






***forgot to mention the obvious, check the fluid level to make sure it is correct.

they make some stuff u put in there thats suppose to stop slipping...don't know if it works and IF it does it wouldn't be a permament fix by any means.

Also when is it slipping?

Better stick to to Type F fluid.

Adjusting the bands is a straight forward process. Just get the car safely up on jacks. Locate the intermediate band adjustment (the front one), loosen the locknut, torque down the adjustment screw to 10 ft lbs and then loosen it exactly 1 1/2 turns. Tighten locknut. Locate the Low & Reverse band adjustment, loosen the locknut, torque the adjustment screw to 10 ft lbs and then loosen it exacty 3 turns. Tighten locknut.

You should actually be replacing the locknuts, but its not critical unless you notice a leak from them.

While you're down there it might be a good time to change the fluid and filter... a clogged filter can cause the tranny to slip, in fact do the filter & fluid change first.

Hope this helps.

It might be a little more serious than a simple band adjustment, but thats the first place to start.

Good luck!

If it is a slipping C6, the first thing I would check is the vacuum line from the modulator to the engine for any leakage. I that ain't the problem it sounds like you are in for a filter and fluid change, at a minimum. Adjusting the bands might help but they get out of adjustment through the normal wear process, which dictates the filter change. It's not a bad idea to open the valve body and give it a thorough cleaning before you put the new filter on. Slip can be caused by pressure problems in the valve body caused by debris blocking valve passages. I have had identical problems in the past with C6 trannys. Before opening up the pan, if the slipping is severe, I add a pint of brake fluid to the transmission and drive the vehicle around locally for a couple of days. The brake fluid will clean and loosen up a lot of the internals that you can't get to with your hands. If you try this, you will need to drain all the fluid possible when you change it. That means the external cooler and lines and the torque converter also. This is by no means a prescription for a tranny repair, just an old school trick used to get more life out of a tranny that will need a rebuild eventually anyway.

GaPonyFarm said:

Better stick to to Type F fluid.

Adjusting the bands is a straight forward process. Just get the car safely up on jacks. Locate the intermediate band adjustment (the front one), loosen the locknut, torque down the adjustment screw to 10 ft lbs and then loosen it exactly 1 1/2 turns. Tighten locknut. Locate the Low & Reverse band adjustment, loosen the locknut, torque the adjustment screw to 10 ft lbs and then loosen it exacty 3 turns. Tighten locknut.
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I don't mean to start anything....but isn't it 10 inch pounds? Big difference.

It sounds like maybe forward drum is gone. If it does it in all gears or any speed. But I hope it's just the bands.

10 foot pounds or 120 inch pounds... and tighten the locknut to 40 ft lbs.

Oh Oh seemed like alot.

Glad you made me double check...it is a lot of difference.