my car is eating batteries...HELP
- Thread starter jmd2914
- Start date
craig&kumay
New Member
craig&kumay
New Member
damn that sucks, i wish i kud help ya, mybe some is left on in your car which is just causing the battery to die, did you check everythang, cuz one time i didnt notice the hatchlight on my car was on and it killed my battery
craig&kumay
New Member
that is a real problem, is it the stock alternator? is it putting out enough amps? do you have anything that would need the extra use of the battery, system, electric fan? etc....
craig&kumay
New Member
man this is a tough one
i had the same problems and i tested the alternator myself and it was bad, have you got it checked by a professional?
craig&kumay
New Member
Roland69
Sergeant Tangnet
Roland69
Sergeant Tangnet
Check the secondary power ground: it is between the back of the intake manifold and the driver's side firewall. It is often missing or loose. It supplies ground for the alternator, A/C compressor clutch and other electrical accessories such as the gauges. Any car that has a 3G or high output current alternator needs a 4 gauge ground wire running from the block to the chassis ground where the battery pigtail ground connects. The 3G has a 130 amp capacity, so you wire the power side with 4 gauge wire. It stands to reason that the ground side handles just a much current, so it needs to be 4 gauge too.
The picture shows the common ground point for the battery & alternator
Picture courtesy timewarped1972
No secondary ground problems, look for a current drain: Small things like glove box or courtesy lights are often the culprits. If you have an aftermarket stereo or alarm system, it is also suspect.
The ideal method is to disconnect the negative terminal, and connect a Digital Multimeter (DVM) between the negative terminal on the battery and the negative cable. Set the DVM on a low current scale of 2-5 amps if it doesn't auto range. Watch the current draw, and then start pulling out fuses. When you see a sudden drop in the current, that circuit is the likely culprit. Note that the computer, radio & clock will draw less than 1/10 amp to keep the settings alive.
The picture shows the common ground point for the battery & alternator
Picture courtesy timewarped1972
No secondary ground problems, look for a current drain: Small things like glove box or courtesy lights are often the culprits. If you have an aftermarket stereo or alarm system, it is also suspect.
The ideal method is to disconnect the negative terminal, and connect a Digital Multimeter (DVM) between the negative terminal on the battery and the negative cable. Set the DVM on a low current scale of 2-5 amps if it doesn't auto range. Watch the current draw, and then start pulling out fuses. When you see a sudden drop in the current, that circuit is the likely culprit. Note that the computer, radio & clock will draw less than 1/10 amp to keep the settings alive.
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I ditto the second ground. also check your fender starter relay to make sure all the wires there are nice and tight. I forgot to tighten on after an alt install the other day and the engine didnt want to turn easily.
Check/clean every single ground wire you can find on the vehicle, from front to back, inside and out.
Also, if you have those silly lighted mirrors on your visors, either unplug them, or put a piece of folded paper or something between the flap and the button that shuts it off. I've found that the light sometimes won't shut off when you close the cover flap because the fabric makes it all loose and such (won't contact the button firmly enough to break the circuit), so you have to put a "shim" of something in there to make it shut off. Otherwise, you'll constantly be having a drain on the battery when the car's shut off, and that continual steady drain will eventually kill even a new battery.
Also, if you have those silly lighted mirrors on your visors, either unplug them, or put a piece of folded paper or something between the flap and the button that shuts it off. I've found that the light sometimes won't shut off when you close the cover flap because the fabric makes it all loose and such (won't contact the button firmly enough to break the circuit), so you have to put a "shim" of something in there to make it shut off. Otherwise, you'll constantly be having a drain on the battery when the car's shut off, and that continual steady drain will eventually kill even a new battery.
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