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my car is eating batteries...HELP

  • Thread starter Thread starter jmd2914
  • Start date Start date Dec 17, 2007
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jmd2914

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Sep 6, 2002
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Dec 17, 2007
#1
  • Dec 17, 2007
  • #1
alright guys
i posted about a month ago about my battery/charging issues and it turned out to be my battery. have the same symptoms as last time. is there something in my charging system that would make my battery not charge correctly after only a month?? thanks guys

Joel
 

91 HATCH

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May 17, 2007
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illinois
Dec 17, 2007
#2
  • Dec 17, 2007
  • #2
i had to put my stock alt pulley back on the unerdrive one left it undercharging
 
J

jmd2914

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Dec 17, 2007
#3
  • Dec 17, 2007
  • #3
im running a stock pully.
 

craig&kumay

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Dec 17, 2007
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mesa, AZ
Dec 17, 2007
#4
  • Dec 17, 2007
  • #4
have you tested you alternator?
 
J

jmd2914

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Dec 17, 2007
#5
  • Dec 17, 2007
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yeah had it tested last time this happened,it was charging fine
 

craig&kumay

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Dec 17, 2007
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Dec 17, 2007
#6
  • Dec 17, 2007
  • #6
jmd2914 said:
yeah had it tested last time this happened,it was charging fine
Click to expand...

damn that sucks, i wish i kud help ya, mybe some is left on in your car which is just causing the battery to die, did you check everythang, cuz one time i didnt notice the hatchlight on my car was on and it killed my battery
 
J

jmd2914

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Dec 17, 2007
#7
  • Dec 17, 2007
  • #7
yeah i checked. i started my car about four times in a row after i figured out that it was starting to die again so i might have just killed it on my own but i dunno why it would start cranking slow again with the battery being new
 

craig&kumay

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Dec 17, 2007
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Dec 17, 2007
#8
  • Dec 17, 2007
  • #8
jmd2914 said:
yeah i checked. i started my car about four times in a row after i figured out that it was starting to die again so i might have just killed it on my own but i dunno why it would start cranking slow again with the battery being new
Click to expand...

that is a real problem, is it the stock alternator? is it putting out enough amps? do you have anything that would need the extra use of the battery, system, electric fan? etc....
 
J

jmd2914

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Dec 17, 2007
#9
  • Dec 17, 2007
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electric fan but im running a 3g alt so it should charge fine
 

craig&kumay

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Dec 17, 2007
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Dec 17, 2007
#10
  • Dec 17, 2007
  • #10
jmd2914 said:
electric fan but im running a 3g alt so it should charge fine
Click to expand...

man this is a tough one i had the same problems and i tested the alternator myself and it was bad, have you got it checked by a professional?
 
J

jmd2914

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Dec 17, 2007
#11
  • Dec 17, 2007
  • #11
yeah, well i took it to kragen and they checked it, but i had it checked by two different people so thats why im thinkin that it cant be the alt
 

craig&kumay

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Dec 17, 2007
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Dec 17, 2007
#12
  • Dec 17, 2007
  • #12
jmd2914 said:
yeah, well i took it to kragen and they checked it, but i had it checked by two different people so thats why im thinkin that it cant be the alt
Click to expand...

what year is your car?
 

Roland69

Sergeant Tangnet
Sep 17, 2005
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Port Elgin, Ontario
Dec 17, 2007
#13
  • Dec 17, 2007
  • #13
did you do a draw test...maby something as stupid as the glove box light staying on
 

Roland69

Sergeant Tangnet
Sep 17, 2005
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Port Elgin, Ontario
Dec 17, 2007
#14
  • Dec 17, 2007
  • #14
craig&kumay said:
what year is your car?
Click to expand...

his sig says 89
 

68keyblr

20+ Year Stangneter
Mar 17, 2003
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Arizona
Dec 17, 2007
#15
  • Dec 17, 2007
  • #15
Is your battery held down nice and tight? Vibration will kill a battery too.
 
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jmd2914

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Dec 18, 2007
#16
  • Dec 18, 2007
  • #16
unfortunately my batter is not held down nice and tight....i'll look into that next as for doing a draw test i havent. how would i go about doing one
 

jrichker

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#17
  • Dec 18, 2007
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Check the secondary power ground: it is between the back of the intake manifold and the driver's side firewall. It is often missing or loose. It supplies ground for the alternator, A/C compressor clutch and other electrical accessories such as the gauges. Any car that has a 3G or high output current alternator needs a 4 gauge ground wire running from the block to the chassis ground where the battery pigtail ground connects. The 3G has a 130 amp capacity, so you wire the power side with 4 gauge wire. It stands to reason that the ground side handles just a much current, so it needs to be 4 gauge too.


The picture shows the common ground point for the battery & alternator

Picture courtesy timewarped1972



No secondary ground problems, look for a current drain: Small things like glove box or courtesy lights are often the culprits. If you have an aftermarket stereo or alarm system, it is also suspect.

The ideal method is to disconnect the negative terminal, and connect a Digital Multimeter (DVM) between the negative terminal on the battery and the negative cable. Set the DVM on a low current scale of 2-5 amps if it doesn't auto range. Watch the current draw, and then start pulling out fuses. When you see a sudden drop in the current, that circuit is the likely culprit. Note that the computer, radio & clock will draw less than 1/10 amp to keep the settings alive.
 

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stykthyn

I want to measure mine. It doesn't look that tall.
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Jul 6, 2006
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Dec 18, 2007
#18
  • Dec 18, 2007
  • #18
I ditto the second ground. also check your fender starter relay to make sure all the wires there are nice and tight. I forgot to tighten on after an alt install the other day and the engine didnt want to turn easily.
 

2000xp8

SN Certified Technician
Aug 8, 2003
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Dec 18, 2007
#19
  • Dec 18, 2007
  • #19
What brand of battery are you using?
 

Darkwriter77

Resident Ranting Negative Nancy
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Dec 18, 2007
#20
  • Dec 18, 2007
  • #20
Check/clean every single ground wire you can find on the vehicle, from front to back, inside and out.

Also, if you have those silly lighted mirrors on your visors, either unplug them, or put a piece of folded paper or something between the flap and the button that shuts it off. I've found that the light sometimes won't shut off when you close the cover flap because the fabric makes it all loose and such (won't contact the button firmly enough to break the circuit), so you have to put a "shim" of something in there to make it shut off. Otherwise, you'll constantly be having a drain on the battery when the car's shut off, and that continual steady drain will eventually kill even a new battery.
 
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