my cobra runs to hot.??????

hello my mustang runs too hot i think? is there a fan relay switch or heat sensor? and where is it? i am new to mustangs and late model cars. i think it is running way to hot. on the guage it is running at the (A) or even (L) oin the NORMAL ?
i know the thermo is opening but i dont know if the fan is kicking on. the reason i think this is because the fan comes on when i run the ac actually causing the car to run cooler. any ideas?:canada:
 
Before you go tearing things apart and spending money on something you don't need, try this. Go to your local autoparts store or walmart and pick up some Electrical Parts Cleaner and take the plug off of the fan and clean the connection. Next you will want to check the status of your coolant. Is it green, brown or black. If it is brown or black you need to flush the system since the radiator will get corroded over time. Another thing is to let the car run for five minutes then squeeze on the upper radiator hose. If it is solid then your thermo is working, if it is collapsed or you can squeeze it tightly, your thermo may be bad. Check the peep to see.
 
Sometimes the guages go bad or you get a bad connection on tempature sending unit. Replace sensor (Its like five bucks) or you can buy a aftermarket tempature guage (Sunpro) from the autoparts store. Use sealent tape and ride it out for a week. You will know if your car is hot. Mine runs about 200-210 degrees.

I.E. If a car starts to clack and loose power it is overheated.
 
i'm in Fresno too:nice:
the temp sending unit is located on the lower intake manifold,screwed into it on the drivers side,it has one wire attached to it(blue arrow)
this just sends a signal to the cluster.
the engine coolant temp sensor(yellow arrow)is how the pcm reads the coolant temp.
its on the coolant hardline.

HPIM2590-1.webp


i would get a real temp gauge,the stock one is not all that accurate.

good luck.
 
so i was told that if you take the connecting wires of the temp sensor and the fan comes on hi then the sensor is bad... so i tested it and the fan turned on high! is this a correct statment that you can tell by doing that?
 
i'm in Fresno too:nice:
the temp sending unit is located on the lower intake manifold,screwed into it on the drivers side,it has one wire attached to it(blue arrow)
this just sends a signal to the cluster.
the engine coolant temp sensor(yellow arrow)is how the pcm reads the coolant temp.
its on the coolant hardline.

HPIM2590-1.webp


i would get a real temp gauge,the stock one is not all that accurate.

good luck.

also i notice that the temp send unit is new and has been replaced so maybe that could be it.
 
Your test is not true. On a cold motor, the fan should not even be on. So if you disconnect the ECT and the fan comes on, what does that mean? It means the ECT probably was working.

There is a safeguard - if the ECT circuit malfunctions (like you disconnect the wiring), the fan comes on low speed so the car doesnt overheat (since it doesnt know what temp the car is at).

You can ohm out your sensor if you want. Do it at room temp and operating temp and post the values.
 
Your test is not true. On a cold motor, the fan should not even be on. So if you disconnect the ECT and the fan comes on, what does that mean? It means the ECT probably was working.

There is a safeguard - if the ECT circuit malfunctions (like you disconnect the wiring), the fan comes on low speed so the car doesnt overheat (since it doesnt know what temp the car is at).

You can ohm out your sensor if you want. Do it at room temp and operating temp and post the values.

can i be honest with you, i have no clue what your just said lol hahaha. all i know is the car was running high (L)'s on the NORMAL scale and wasnt coming on. so i pulled the plug off the temp sensor and the fan switched on high. that doesnt mean anything? sorry guys i"m new to ford. lol i know sbc like the back of my hand but not these cars. so just bare with me. lol
 
You need to verify temps first. If not wanting another gauge, use an IR thermometer or something like that.

If you want, let the car warm up (don't let it break anything or overheat). Shut it off and then turn the key back on (but don't let the car run). Disconnect the electrical connector to the ECT and ohm it out. Tell us what it reads.
 
If you're that unfamiliar with electrical systems and using a DMM, this is probably going to be beyond the scope of what you want to do.

Ohming it out is common slang for doing a resistance test. The ECT has a thermistor which changes resistance and voltage with regard to temperature.
 
Pulling the ECT plug is a good test to see if the fan itself is working or not or if there's a problem with the fan circuitry.

Now, if you do this test and you have verified the engine is past the cut-on temp with a good gauge, then it'll pretty much tell you the ECT is bad.
 
Dude, if you pull the ECT sensor plug off and the fan comes on, it's because the EEC just told the CCRM to turn it on. So if his fan works, the CCRM is doing what it's told to do. And CCRM's are alot more expensive than ECT sensors, so that would be where I'd start myself.